4.44 Rear End Gear Swap
#1
4.44 Rear End Gear Swap
I bought me a set of these:
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only. I make no assertions that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Use HONDA SERVICE MANUAL along with this too. Especially when setting preloads.
Jack the car as high as possible. Remove rear wheels and put them under the car in front of a jack stand for safety.
I recommend you to put something under the front wheels.
1. Make a reference marks across the propeller shaft and rear differential then remove 6 prop shaft bolts with their spacers. Leave the shaft in the U shaped hanger that is already on the car.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the lover arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. To avoid damaging the ball joint, install a hex nut on to the thread of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint rubber boot when installing remover.
It will make a real loud ˝POP˝ when the ball joint separates from lower arm.
I used Ball joint remover - Toll Nr.: 07MAC-SL00200
3. Remove ABS sensor harness from the upper suspension arm - 2 bolts on upper arm.
4. Make a reference marks across the inboard joint and the rear differential.
5. Remove 6 inboard joint mounting bolts and nuts, then remove the inboard joint from the rear diff.
6. Remove the rear suspension stiffener.
7. Remove the canister cover - thing that guards black plastic box.
8. Remove 4 diff mount bracket mounting nuts on the rear side of diff.
9. Remove 4 diff mount mounting bolts in the front side of a diff.
10. Take out rear differential.
My diff on the table with the output shafts popped out. I used rubber hammer to pop the shafts out.
Remove 10 mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the diff case assembly. Whack the housing a few times with a plastic or rubber hammer till it comes loose. Separate the housing from the rest of the diff. Use a gasket scraper to get rid of all the old gasket material (it
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only. I make no assertions that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Use HONDA SERVICE MANUAL along with this too. Especially when setting preloads.
Jack the car as high as possible. Remove rear wheels and put them under the car in front of a jack stand for safety.
I recommend you to put something under the front wheels.
1. Make a reference marks across the propeller shaft and rear differential then remove 6 prop shaft bolts with their spacers. Leave the shaft in the U shaped hanger that is already on the car.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the lover arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. To avoid damaging the ball joint, install a hex nut on to the thread of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint rubber boot when installing remover.
It will make a real loud ˝POP˝ when the ball joint separates from lower arm.
I used Ball joint remover - Toll Nr.: 07MAC-SL00200
3. Remove ABS sensor harness from the upper suspension arm - 2 bolts on upper arm.
4. Make a reference marks across the inboard joint and the rear differential.
5. Remove 6 inboard joint mounting bolts and nuts, then remove the inboard joint from the rear diff.
6. Remove the rear suspension stiffener.
7. Remove the canister cover - thing that guards black plastic box.
8. Remove 4 diff mount bracket mounting nuts on the rear side of diff.
9. Remove 4 diff mount mounting bolts in the front side of a diff.
10. Take out rear differential.
My diff on the table with the output shafts popped out. I used rubber hammer to pop the shafts out.
Remove 10 mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the diff case assembly. Whack the housing a few times with a plastic or rubber hammer till it comes loose. Separate the housing from the rest of the diff. Use a gasket scraper to get rid of all the old gasket material (it
#2
Nice writeup!
But why this step: ?!
2. Remove the cotter pin from the lover arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. To avoid damaging the ball joint, install a hex nut on to the thread of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint rubber boot when installing remover.
It will make a real ˝POP˝.
But why this step: ?!
2. Remove the cotter pin from the lover arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. To avoid damaging the ball joint, install a hex nut on to the thread of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint rubber boot when installing remover.
It will make a real ˝POP˝.
#3
Originally Posted by stocky,Apr 9 2007, 12:35 PM
Nice writeup!
But why this step: ?!
2. Remove the cotter pin from the lover arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. To avoid damaging the ball joint, install a hex nut on to the thread of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint rubber boot when installing remover.
It will make a real ˝POP˝.
But why this step: ?!
2. Remove the cotter pin from the lover arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. To avoid damaging the ball joint, install a hex nut on to the thread of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint rubber boot when installing remover.
It will make a real ˝POP˝.
I will edit that.
#7
I am not using a full potential out of gears yet because I am still running them in. To tell you the truth, I am a little disappointed. I thought there will be bigger difference. But this not means that I don
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by Mr. S2k,Apr 9 2007, 10:18 PM
I meant that it makes really loud pop when the ball joint separates from lower arm.
I will edit that.
I will edit that.
You don't need to!