info on blown engine
08-11-2008, 08:03 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: nor'hampton pa
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
info on blown engine
ok...now that its been approved and its a couple days into install i feel better about posting this.
thanks frank for deleting previous posts until approval went through..
Basically what happened is that the number 4 cylinder connecting rod split in two...half went straight down and punch a hole the size of my fist out of the bottom of the engine block..the other peice(with piston still attached) shot up into the head. bottom line, catastrophic engine failure. so bad that when the piston hit the valves it shot metal chunks into the intake manifold and they're replacing that too.
as you can guess from how i'm talking about this..they -ARE COVERING IT UNDER WARRANTY-.....THANK THE MOTHER F'ING CAR GOD ALMIGHTY FOR SAVING MY BROKE ASS.
They said they are using a used engine that was in a rear smashed s2k that had 44k miles on it. They will be replacing the intake manifold with a brand new one. i bought the car with 65k miles so hey, its not THAT bad of a trade...it comes with a 6 month 6,000 mile warranty on it too. They should be done with it by the end of this week.
They are are saying something that i have to pay 25% of the labor and that its in my contract..i can't wait to tell them once its 100% complete that its not in the contract anywhere and all i'm supposed to pay is the 100$ deductible..but even if i'm forced to pay 25% it comes to like 600-700...which i will GLADLY pay out for an engine.
So guys... did i make out or what??? What kind of things should i be checking for when i get the car? Personally right now i'm not going to accept the car back unless they let me take it for a test drive(they can have someone ride with me if they want) to get it nice and hot..make sure nothings leaking and nothing looks amiss. what else should i do/check? Please let me know..honestly from all the help I've received from you guys on how to handle this situation...i really think thats why it got approved. they knew right off the bad that i'm handling this in a professional way in case it gets out of hand that i have proof of everything..i found them all the receipts..only talked to them via written statements that were faxed to them, so it was all "on the record".
they tried to claim negligence the day before they approved it when i went to check on the car...the guys like yea the car is bone stock i don't understand how they are trying to claim negligence...so i popped the trunk and pulled out my extra gallon of oil/funnel and he started laufing at me saying "another thing to say they are crazy with"....all in all the honda dealership was ****SUR-MOTHA-F'ING-PRISE*** a great help with everything. they stood behind me in my claims and really made the experience a non-hassle. i was honestly blown away by everything they did to get it approved.
i mainly think its because the warranty was threw a third party and they make a pretty penny off the job...but the guy that told me they were trying to claim negligence said that even if they wouldn't cover it american honda would. which i really don't believe at all after reading all the stuff on these boards.
thanks frank for deleting previous posts until approval went through..
Basically what happened is that the number 4 cylinder connecting rod split in two...half went straight down and punch a hole the size of my fist out of the bottom of the engine block..the other peice(with piston still attached) shot up into the head. bottom line, catastrophic engine failure. so bad that when the piston hit the valves it shot metal chunks into the intake manifold and they're replacing that too.
as you can guess from how i'm talking about this..they -ARE COVERING IT UNDER WARRANTY-.....THANK THE MOTHER F'ING CAR GOD ALMIGHTY FOR SAVING MY BROKE ASS.
They said they are using a used engine that was in a rear smashed s2k that had 44k miles on it. They will be replacing the intake manifold with a brand new one. i bought the car with 65k miles so hey, its not THAT bad of a trade...it comes with a 6 month 6,000 mile warranty on it too. They should be done with it by the end of this week.
They are are saying something that i have to pay 25% of the labor and that its in my contract..i can't wait to tell them once its 100% complete that its not in the contract anywhere and all i'm supposed to pay is the 100$ deductible..but even if i'm forced to pay 25% it comes to like 600-700...which i will GLADLY pay out for an engine.
So guys... did i make out or what??? What kind of things should i be checking for when i get the car? Personally right now i'm not going to accept the car back unless they let me take it for a test drive(they can have someone ride with me if they want) to get it nice and hot..make sure nothings leaking and nothing looks amiss. what else should i do/check? Please let me know..honestly from all the help I've received from you guys on how to handle this situation...i really think thats why it got approved. they knew right off the bad that i'm handling this in a professional way in case it gets out of hand that i have proof of everything..i found them all the receipts..only talked to them via written statements that were faxed to them, so it was all "on the record".
they tried to claim negligence the day before they approved it when i went to check on the car...the guys like yea the car is bone stock i don't understand how they are trying to claim negligence...so i popped the trunk and pulled out my extra gallon of oil/funnel and he started laufing at me saying "another thing to say they are crazy with"....all in all the honda dealership was ****SUR-MOTHA-F'ING-PRISE*** a great help with everything. they stood behind me in my claims and really made the experience a non-hassle. i was honestly blown away by everything they did to get it approved.
i mainly think its because the warranty was threw a third party and they make a pretty penny off the job...but the guy that told me they were trying to claim negligence said that even if they wouldn't cover it american honda would. which i really don't believe at all after reading all the stuff on these boards.
08-11-2008, 10:44 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Philly
Posts: 2,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why are they giving you a used engine instead of a brand new block and head? What kind of warranty is it under? Does the warranty contract specify that they are allowed to substitute used parts?
Andrew
Andrew
08-11-2008, 10:56 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: nor'hampton pa
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes...sadly the contract says they can use anything they want.....this isn't a honda warranty and as long as its not a REMANUFACTURE engine that failed before and they rebuilt i really don't care....i mean i could get a top notch engine..i could get another bad one..but i have another warranty to find out and i should find out well before 6 months are up.
what should i be lookin at when i pick the car up?
what should i be lookin at when i pick the car up?
08-11-2008, 11:28 AM
#4
Former Moderator
That 6 month warranty blows, make sure you get some type of extended one also.
If this was my situation though, theirs no way in hell they would be putting a used motor in my car. Id have a new one.
If this was my situation though, theirs no way in hell they would be putting a used motor in my car. Id have a new one.
08-11-2008, 11:29 AM
#5
Originally Posted by aklucsarits,Aug 11 2008, 01:44 PM
Why are they giving you a used engine instead of a brand new block and head? What kind of warranty is it under? Does the warranty contract specify that they are allowed to substitute used parts?
Andrew
Andrew
Congrats man on getting it fixed, good to see they came through for you.
08-11-2008, 12:13 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice to hear that they manned up and are paying for it.
The only thing I can think of off hand is getting the lash checked on the valves. When you do that you can look at other things too. There are a few DIY on here about valve jobs. Look for cracked retainers, they can lead to more failures. I would look at the plugs too when they are out for the valve job. I can't remember if it is 50k or 60k when you are supposed to do the valves anyway.
Good Luck.
The only thing I can think of off hand is getting the lash checked on the valves. When you do that you can look at other things too. There are a few DIY on here about valve jobs. Look for cracked retainers, they can lead to more failures. I would look at the plugs too when they are out for the valve job. I can't remember if it is 50k or 60k when you are supposed to do the valves anyway.
Good Luck.
08-12-2008, 04:56 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: nor'hampton pa
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks everyone and thats exactly what i'm thinking. one of the first things i did when i bought my car was do a valve adjustment with the awesome help of freq.
When i get the car back i'm going to do a lot of stuff immediately..i don't know wtf they did in there but i'm not chancing it. They said that "the top mechanic in the entire building is on my car" but i don't know if i wanna believe that. Then comes all of the other DIY stuff, throttle cable adjustment, fluid level checks/changes, everything...
all i'm really hoping for right now is that they put it back together 100% with no leaks or anything...the last thing i need is to have the reliability go through the floor cuz i had some dumbass mechanic putting my engine in that doesn't do all the side steps like greasing everything and making the proper adjustments.
Frank, i wish i could fight for a new engine but i can't. its blatantly spelled out in the contract that they can use what they want. its even in honda's extended warranties...they can use WHATEVER they want. they could try to rebuild the engine with my head and all new valvetrain parts and a short block if they wanted to. think about this for a minute. would you rather have a rebuilt engine using parts out of the blown one? or a re-manufactured engine that was rebuilt out of someone else's blown engine? or a used engine?
OBVIOUSLY ANYONE with a brain would take the NEW engine if they could. but out of the above choices i'll take a used engine with lower miles than i bought the car with ANY DAY for the price i'm paying. seriously the way these situations normally play out the car owner is assed out with NOTHING footing an 8k bill....I FEEL VERY VERY LUCKY....
very lucky...
When i get the car back i'm going to do a lot of stuff immediately..i don't know wtf they did in there but i'm not chancing it. They said that "the top mechanic in the entire building is on my car" but i don't know if i wanna believe that. Then comes all of the other DIY stuff, throttle cable adjustment, fluid level checks/changes, everything...
all i'm really hoping for right now is that they put it back together 100% with no leaks or anything...the last thing i need is to have the reliability go through the floor cuz i had some dumbass mechanic putting my engine in that doesn't do all the side steps like greasing everything and making the proper adjustments.
Frank, i wish i could fight for a new engine but i can't. its blatantly spelled out in the contract that they can use what they want. its even in honda's extended warranties...they can use WHATEVER they want. they could try to rebuild the engine with my head and all new valvetrain parts and a short block if they wanted to. think about this for a minute. would you rather have a rebuilt engine using parts out of the blown one? or a re-manufactured engine that was rebuilt out of someone else's blown engine? or a used engine?
OBVIOUSLY ANYONE with a brain would take the NEW engine if they could. but out of the above choices i'll take a used engine with lower miles than i bought the car with ANY DAY for the price i'm paying. seriously the way these situations normally play out the car owner is assed out with NOTHING footing an 8k bill....I FEEL VERY VERY LUCKY....
very lucky...
Trending Topics
08-12-2008, 05:08 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: nor'hampton pa
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
seriously...think about it. A warranty company is already flipping shits that they gotta shell out close to 13 grand for this
they said the engine was 4,500
they are saying that the insurance company only pays what the factory will cover time wise for the warranty. because it will take longer i have to pay 25% of the remaining labor charge. which comes out to 650(rounded for easy math)650x4 = 2600....so you figure the labor from the factory has to be atleast twice if not 4 times that amount..lets to it for both. 5,200 and 10,400..so
4,500 for new engine
5,200 for factory specified time to do labor
2,600 for labor over specified time
12,300 total and if you wanna use the 10k figure for labor..add another 5k to this..
oh and i almost forgot. they're buying me a new intake manifold which they said with all the little parts that comes with it is about 750-900$ in itself.
and after looking at the numbers you then realize that...holy shit if they would have denied that and i would have gotten stuck with that bill...i'm taking that used engine for 650$(might only be 100$ when i discuss my contract with them) and running away from this with a smile on my face and my wallet still in one piece...
they said the engine was 4,500
they are saying that the insurance company only pays what the factory will cover time wise for the warranty. because it will take longer i have to pay 25% of the remaining labor charge. which comes out to 650(rounded for easy math)650x4 = 2600....so you figure the labor from the factory has to be atleast twice if not 4 times that amount..lets to it for both. 5,200 and 10,400..so
4,500 for new engine
5,200 for factory specified time to do labor
2,600 for labor over specified time
12,300 total and if you wanna use the 10k figure for labor..add another 5k to this..
oh and i almost forgot. they're buying me a new intake manifold which they said with all the little parts that comes with it is about 750-900$ in itself.
and after looking at the numbers you then realize that...holy shit if they would have denied that and i would have gotten stuck with that bill...i'm taking that used engine for 650$(might only be 100$ when i discuss my contract with them) and running away from this with a smile on my face and my wallet still in one piece...
08-17-2008, 06:32 AM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: nor'hampton pa
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
update:
got the car back...run's great
no leaks nothing. little problem but it happened afterward's and it was nothing they replaced.
basically the car threw code p4011, secondary air pump. i checked all of the vacuum lines and they are all on correctly. the guy who put in the engine did a good job as far as i can see.. but i'm gonna pull the bumper and check to see if my air pump is ok or not. i think it fried itself like billman's in his post.
Either way i'm so f'ing happy to get the car back. it run's strong..it feels a lot stronger than my old one lower down...which isn't that weird considering the thing blew up..but i'm gonna check the serial number of the engine and figure out what year it's from and all that..hopefully i can match it up to a VIN somehow and carfax it. dealership only knows it came from a 42k mile car that's it.
but yea...i'm happy as a pig in shit. final cost was around 650$...you can't beat that. ever.
got the car back...run's great
no leaks nothing. little problem but it happened afterward's and it was nothing they replaced.basically the car threw code p4011, secondary air pump. i checked all of the vacuum lines and they are all on correctly. the guy who put in the engine did a good job as far as i can see.. but i'm gonna pull the bumper and check to see if my air pump is ok or not. i think it fried itself like billman's in his post.
Either way i'm so f'ing happy to get the car back. it run's strong..it feels a lot stronger than my old one lower down...which isn't that weird considering the thing blew up..but i'm gonna check the serial number of the engine and figure out what year it's from and all that..hopefully i can match it up to a VIN somehow and carfax it. dealership only knows it came from a 42k mile car that's it.
but yea...i'm happy as a pig in shit. final cost was around 650$...you can't beat that. ever.
08-17-2008, 12:50 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: nor'hampton pa
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
turns out i didn't check the vacuum lines hard enough. after hearing the secondary air pump start up and stop like it normally should on a cold start i realize that it's ok..the vacuum lines were a little messed up but nothing that 20 seconds of work didn't fix..
also this took car of the noise i was hearing...it sounded like a bearing at first was going bad in the serpentine belt auto tensioner pully. turns out the way the vacuum hoses were routed it was shooting air through the air control solenoid valve the wrong direction. which was in turn causing the weird noise to happen..and since its literally an in and a half from the pully it makes sense.
so as of right now..the car is 100% no leaks running a lot smoother than my old engine...
I"m happy as shit...also i'm gonna get pic's up of the blown engine block..you can't see the connecting rod lodged in the cylinder but you can see the huge ass hole it made plus the huge gouge it took out of the inside of the block...it even cracked the 4th cylinder and cracked the block right where one of the bolts holds it to the head.
pics will be up real shortly!!!
also this took car of the noise i was hearing...it sounded like a bearing at first was going bad in the serpentine belt auto tensioner pully. turns out the way the vacuum hoses were routed it was shooting air through the air control solenoid valve the wrong direction. which was in turn causing the weird noise to happen..and since its literally an in and a half from the pully it makes sense.
so as of right now..the car is 100% no leaks running a lot smoother than my old engine...
I"m happy as shit...also i'm gonna get pic's up of the blown engine block..you can't see the connecting rod lodged in the cylinder but you can see the huge ass hole it made plus the huge gouge it took out of the inside of the block...it even cracked the 4th cylinder and cracked the block right where one of the bolts holds it to the head.
pics will be up real shortly!!!