dbw ap2 valve question
#1
dbw ap2 valve question
I may be buying a '09 S2000 with 45,000 miles on it. Car seems pristine but present owner has not owned car very long, and there are no records detailing work done - only general car fax info.
I have read that these drive by wire cars are typically likely to have their exhaust valves way too tight.
The car is 250 miles away, and will be checked by a Honda dealer's master tech before I buy the car.
I don't think it will be risky to drive the car home and have valve check and adjustment done here, but want to check with you folks.
Any symptoms to suggest "do not drive" it home unless valves are adjusted?
Thanks everyone.
I have read that these drive by wire cars are typically likely to have their exhaust valves way too tight.
The car is 250 miles away, and will be checked by a Honda dealer's master tech before I buy the car.
I don't think it will be risky to drive the car home and have valve check and adjustment done here, but want to check with you folks.
Any symptoms to suggest "do not drive" it home unless valves are adjusted?
Thanks everyone.
#2
Just do the valve check/adjust yourself some time after the car is home. I checked my '06 at about 44K miles earlier this year and they were all fine, no adjustments needed.
The work is simple but tedious -- there are 16 valves. Bent feeler gauges are mandatory and the little Honda valve adjustment tool saves much time. Both tools will cost no more than $20 total. I fit a new gasket set for the cover and spark plugs. The check/adjustment has to be done on a cold engine so you either have to leave the car somewhere or do it your self. A satisfying bit of maintenance doing it yourself. Excellent photo essay on this in the maintenance section as well as videos on line.
My car had been fully serviced by a Honda dealer (where I bought it in July 2014). If you have any doubts 5.2 quarts of 10W-30 and a new Honda oil filter, 2 quarts of Honda manual transmission oil, and a quart of oil for the differential are cheap and easy to change. Ask the parts counter for a new washers for the engine oil bolt and the fill/drain plugs for transmission and differential. Nice photo essay for these in the maintenance section too.
-- Chuck
The work is simple but tedious -- there are 16 valves. Bent feeler gauges are mandatory and the little Honda valve adjustment tool saves much time. Both tools will cost no more than $20 total. I fit a new gasket set for the cover and spark plugs. The check/adjustment has to be done on a cold engine so you either have to leave the car somewhere or do it your self. A satisfying bit of maintenance doing it yourself. Excellent photo essay on this in the maintenance section as well as videos on line.
My car had been fully serviced by a Honda dealer (where I bought it in July 2014). If you have any doubts 5.2 quarts of 10W-30 and a new Honda oil filter, 2 quarts of Honda manual transmission oil, and a quart of oil for the differential are cheap and easy to change. Ask the parts counter for a new washers for the engine oil bolt and the fill/drain plugs for transmission and differential. Nice photo essay for these in the maintenance section too.
-- Chuck
#3
Community Organizer
ajay, you WILL be attend one of the tech days at my place in March of 2016. RIGHT?
Billman will be here and that car can get a proper "once-over".
Billman will be here and that car can get a proper "once-over".
#4
Community Organizer
45K miles w/o a valve adjustment is better than a bad valve adjustment.
A CEL (or worse yet, a flashing CEL) would be a red flag. CEL = Check Engine Light
Wish I could help you this weekend ajay.
#5
Thanks guys. Pickup is still delayed a few weeks (lie. Must be removed and clean title received)
I'm just obsessing a bit, don't want to have a major and expensive breakdown on my ride home. I didn't think there were any tell tale signs of a potential problem unless there were no CELs, poor idling/running. Compression check detection for tight valves must be done with a hot engine, right? Not many will touch a hot engine.
Thanks again
I'm just obsessing a bit, don't want to have a major and expensive breakdown on my ride home. I didn't think there were any tell tale signs of a potential problem unless there were no CELs, poor idling/running. Compression check detection for tight valves must be done with a hot engine, right? Not many will touch a hot engine.
Thanks again
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