advice on dealership/mechanic around philly
#1
advice on dealership/mechanic around philly
Hey Guys,
I might be breaking a rule or 2 with the crossposting. Basically my issue (posted in UTH) goes like so:
Given the symptoms, what are some good mechanics around the area where I can take the car to? I live in downtown philly, but my parents live in the Yardley/Newtown area, so I could go around either place.
Thanks in advance!
I might be breaking a rule or 2 with the crossposting. Basically my issue (posted in UTH) goes like so:
Hey Guys,
Last week my car has developed a clicking noise from the rear that has gotten progressively worse, and it is at the point now where at speeds above 40mph, I can hear the clicking much louder than the engine.
Brief breakdown of what's going on:
-Sounds like "card in a bike spoke" type of clicking, about 5 clicks per wheel revolution.
-Clicking is directly related to how fast the car is going, not which gear it is in
-Clicking only audible during acceleration (goes away when not accelerating, not audible if coasting), and is audible accelerating at any speed.
-Clicking sound much louder at speeds above 40mph
-Briefly inspected under the car's rear for damage, found nothing visible
After searching the many "clicking rear end" posts, I don't think my symptoms necessarily line up directly with a bad diff or cv joint.
Also I must preface by saying that I did knock my passenger rear wheel a couple weeks ago pretty hard on a storm drain, maybe at about 1 or 2 mph, but it definitely took a hit. Car drove fine for a day or 2 afterwards, and I can't tell if my problem is correlated.
My questions are: if it is a diff or cv issue, do those symptoms occur and become greatly pronounced within a week's time? Or, if I did damage my wheel, what are some possible issues that may have occurred to that correlate with the symptoms described above?
I'm taking it to my mechanic monday, but I'd like to be armed with some knowledge before going there.
Thanks for any help guys, I really appreciate it!
Last week my car has developed a clicking noise from the rear that has gotten progressively worse, and it is at the point now where at speeds above 40mph, I can hear the clicking much louder than the engine.
Brief breakdown of what's going on:
-Sounds like "card in a bike spoke" type of clicking, about 5 clicks per wheel revolution.
-Clicking is directly related to how fast the car is going, not which gear it is in
-Clicking only audible during acceleration (goes away when not accelerating, not audible if coasting), and is audible accelerating at any speed.
-Clicking sound much louder at speeds above 40mph
-Briefly inspected under the car's rear for damage, found nothing visible
After searching the many "clicking rear end" posts, I don't think my symptoms necessarily line up directly with a bad diff or cv joint.
Also I must preface by saying that I did knock my passenger rear wheel a couple weeks ago pretty hard on a storm drain, maybe at about 1 or 2 mph, but it definitely took a hit. Car drove fine for a day or 2 afterwards, and I can't tell if my problem is correlated.
My questions are: if it is a diff or cv issue, do those symptoms occur and become greatly pronounced within a week's time? Or, if I did damage my wheel, what are some possible issues that may have occurred to that correlate with the symptoms described above?
I'm taking it to my mechanic monday, but I'd like to be armed with some knowledge before going there.
Thanks for any help guys, I really appreciate it!
Thanks in advance!
#3
Edit..
I had suggest retorquing axle nut, however if the clicking is steady to the driving I am thinking this is wrong. Usually this is reported to click when you first start or stop. However you can/should check that your rear axles are torqued to 220 ft/lb. Get together with Tinkfist if you don't want to buy the big socket just for this one time issue.
You say you hit one wheel pretty hard, possibly a loose caliper that's hanging and ticking?
I had suggest retorquing axle nut, however if the clicking is steady to the driving I am thinking this is wrong. Usually this is reported to click when you first start or stop. However you can/should check that your rear axles are torqued to 220 ft/lb. Get together with Tinkfist if you don't want to buy the big socket just for this one time issue.
You say you hit one wheel pretty hard, possibly a loose caliper that's hanging and ticking?
#5
Hey guys, thanks for the advice! I took it down to my local mechanic, whom I trust enough, and they diagnosed it to the point where they know it's coming from within the pumpkin. He doesn't even want to work on it.. told me to bring it to a dealership.
Fortunately I have an aftermarket warranty, and they are sending a guy to my mechanic to look at the car. Technically I should be covered, but for some reason I'm expecting a fight with this warranty guy.
If you're interested, the threads in UTH.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=482493
Fortunately I have an aftermarket warranty, and they are sending a guy to my mechanic to look at the car. Technically I should be covered, but for some reason I'm expecting a fight with this warranty guy.
If you're interested, the threads in UTH.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=482493
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