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Old 04-14-2014 | 05:43 PM
  #21  
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God, if my DD was paid off I'd be ALL OVER THIS. GLWS. Really surprised you haven't found a buyer, but stick with it! She'll get a good home.
Old 04-14-2014 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mking26
Hey guys, I don't actually have an S2000 but was the one that went on test drive and auto loan was not possible because car is older than 10 years. This car was in awesome shape and a steal at that. It hurt me to cancel and pull out on the sale of this. If it doesn't sell in the next two months may just pay cash because it is worth every penny and more. Good luck with the sale man! I'll keep my eye out for this one I'm the DMV area!


Matt
Shop some banks. You're not going to find a loan for greater then NADA trade value which is probably ~$11k. But there's banks that'll do a 2 or 3 year loan on a 12 year old car. I just got a 3 year $10k loan for my 2001 with 57k miles.

This car looks like it's worth the effort to find that cash. Can't believe it hasn't sold already.
Old 04-14-2014 | 10:16 PM
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Looks like a very well built car. Wish it weren't yellow as ththat'satz about the only color I can't bring my self to own.
Old 04-15-2014 | 02:45 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by UberDuper
Shop some banks. You're not going to find a loan for greater then NADA trade value which is probably ~$11k. But there's banks that'll do a 2 or 3 year loan on a 12 year old car. I just got a 3 year $10k loan for my 2001 with 57k miles.
For what it's worth, I bank with USAA (a military-centric bank) and they had no trouble giving me a loan for $17k in August 2013 (actually I got it for $16k because I put a deposit). I know there's a pretty wide disparity between NADA and KBB on these, and most banks use NADA, but just FWIW...some banks apparently are willing.

I never told the bank about any upgrades (since I didn't expect them to care, and they're also my insurance company!), but:
NADA lists clean retail at $13,375; KBB lists good-very good between $15,786 and $16,061. So, it's probably not unheard of to get another bank to loan the money if you put a few bucks down on it.

At any rate, I don't anticipate much trouble selling, just a matter of finding someone with a desire to have an absurdly overpowered and unnecessary car. I also didn't post this on ebay/craigslist/autotrader/etc because I feel a responsibility to sell it to the type of person that would be checking the s2ki forums. I'd rather it take a little longer to sell and go to someone that a) knows what they're getting into and b) knows how to use the resources available to them, than to go to some 16yo as his first car and then I see him on the news wrapped around a tree. I've had 15+ cars of varying power levels, and I'm still not sure I was ready for something this explosive.

In related news, one well-informed potential buyer brought up the question of redline & longevity. I was under the impression the 'redline' had been reduced to 8500 with the stroker, but he pointed out that still seems a bit high for the longer stroke. I've put a question out to InlinePro (the engine builders) to clarify. There may actually be a fuel cutoff on the hondata at whatever the redline is, I've never gotten it that high to find out. Either way, worst case scenario, InlinePro is around the corner from my house so I'm sure we can get to the bottom of it. This is why I'm selling on S2k: people know the right questions.

UPDATE: InlinePro suggest 8000-8500rpm for the redline.
Old 04-15-2014 | 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TheStigSC
God, if my DD was paid off I'd be ALL OVER THIS. GLWS. Really surprised you haven't found a buyer, but stick with it! She'll get a good home.
Judging by your sig, we're in the same boat, so...stick with responsibility!
Old 04-15-2014 | 06:19 AM
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From InlinePro:
Yes, for street driving we recommend 8000-8500 rev limit.
Old 04-16-2014 | 02:09 PM
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Just did a compression test by request, all numbers are very close. It wasn't totally hot, I just ran it up the street to warm it up, but it should be adequate for these purposes.

You'll have to look for yourself, but I read it as:
#1: 195
#2: 194
#3: 188
#4: 197

Numbers are obviously lower than stock, because of the lower comp pistons. But, if the acceptable variance is 10%, I'd say it looks pretty good at less than 5%.

Here are pics of all 4. I actually took video as well, they're currently uploading to YouTube and I'll link when they're done.










ETA: videos are up:
http://youtu.be/P337ukpxl8c
http://youtu.be/iCYu8a0_-kM
http://youtu.be/7QY9T4Jjfdw
http://youtu.be/bEJOqRWCPmg


Edit #2: I put an email out to InlinePro to make sure this is what they would expect for the engine. Their response:
The compression depends on a few different things. That sounds normal. We just look for consistent numbers.
Old 04-16-2014 | 05:45 PM
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what exhaust is on there? im guessing its pretty loud on the hwy?
Old 04-17-2014 | 02:17 AM
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It's an N1 with a race cat. It's not bad at or below 60 in 6th, but still pretty loud, yes.
Old 04-18-2014 | 11:27 AM
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One more thing I thought of when talking to a potential buyer, the battery heat soak. The little braille sitting right above the turbo can have trouble if you try to start it within 2-3 minutes of shutting down. Original seller told me when I bought it, I immediately forgot, and then got pulled over for no plates on the way home and the cop sent me on right my way after checking my papers, except I killed the battery trying to crank it.

As it is, I don't usually shut it off when I fill up unless I'm going into the gas station to buy something, stretch my legs, etc. If someone intended to use this car for running lots of short errands (lolwhy), I would suggest a full-size battery with a trunk relocation, though this certainly works and hasn't bitten me after the first hour of ownership.

/full disclosure


***sold pending funds***
 
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