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Welding in drain plug return for SC(into oil pan)

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Old 12-17-2014 | 04:39 AM
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Default Welding in drain plug return for SC(into oil pan)

Not sure if I will be sending this up to a friend in NH or if it's just better to get it done locally. Just don't know anyone around here that has done an oil pan return line setup in our oil pan. I want to make sure it's not hacked in and is done right. Willing to travel a little bit but if I am going to kill a 1/2 tank of gas I mind as well mail it out!

I will need to be able to cap the drain for now so I can run the car NA for a bit till the return is needed.

Thanks guys.
Old 12-19-2014 | 03:21 AM
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why not use an AN fitting like sos does? works great and still able to drain the oil. besides if you are going to go na for a bit, just put the oem drain plug back for the time you need. welding it up seems like defeating the purpose and making extra work.
Old 12-19-2014 | 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by YELLOW JACKET
why not use an AN fitting like sos does? works great and still able to drain the oil. besides if you are going to go na for a bit, just put the oem drain plug back for the time you need. welding it up seems like defeating the purpose and making extra work.
I don't care to really keep mess with AN fittings every time I change the oil unless(forgive my ignorance) it is just as easy or easier than the OEM plug? Was figuring if I could get a welder to put a bung in I could install a Fumoto valve to drain. Reason for this is I have a SPOON X Brace on the car and it partially blocks the drain plug so oil usually goes everywhere as it drains.


I know the SOS SC KIT has AN fittings so I guess it might just be best to undo the AN fitting and drain that way.

Maybe people here could help me looking at the picture below there are what look to be 3 connections. AN to OEM oil pan. AN to 45 bend and then 45 bend to RED return line from SC. Which of these is taken off when doing an oil change?


If I could just spin the 45 down then that would definitely clear the brace. Though oil is going to shoot out of there when it's first undone!
Old 12-19-2014 | 04:28 AM
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we can weld in a bung.. i would not recommend the return going to the drain plug
Old 12-19-2014 | 05:43 AM
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You will be fine with the SC oil return going to the oil drain bolt location. It doesn't make it any more difficult to drain the oil. Its not a turbo. You will be fine.
Old 12-19-2014 | 06:20 AM
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tell that to all the superchargers we've had to replace seals in due to oil backing up and leaking out the front of the blower. One thing in common, they all drained into the drain plug. He's probably still got the pan off from changing sensors for the kpro.
Old 12-19-2014 | 07:21 AM
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Andy. I know I CAN but I would like to make oil changes more simple and avoid possible fitting leaks. Jason's right, K-Pro install is in progress and pan will come off probably this weekend.

It's slow going as I don't have a lot of time to dedicate so it's 5 min here - 15 min there. Oil drain took me 1.5 days.(sucked oil out first then drained last of it and letting it drip over night)
Old 12-19-2014 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by wadzii
tell that to all the superchargers we've had to replace seals in due to oil backing up and leaking out the front of the blower. One thing in common, they all drained into the drain plug. He's probably still got the pan off from changing sensors for the kpro.
I'm sorry Jason, I am no where near as experienced in working on cars as you are and I mean no disrespect when I say this. But I just don't believe it. I don't believe that oil is backing up in these centri-blowers. I don't believe seals are going bad because of the choice of drain location. I don't believe oil at the front of the blower can be attributed to the oil drain. It may be complete ignorance on my part, and feel free to call me ignorant, but I just don't believe it. And apparently SOS and CTE don't believe it either.

Originally Posted by wadzii
One thing in common, they all drained into the drain plug.
This is like saying, "Tell that to all the people that have to wear glasses. One thing in common, they all have eyes." Every single kit from SOS and CTE drain to the drain plug. Vortech kit blowers develop bad seals too, and their users had to drill/tap the pan.

I just don't believe it.

Originally Posted by Pinky
Andy. I know I CAN but I would like to make oil changes more simple and avoid possible fitting leaks. Jason's right, K-Pro install is in progress and pan will come off probably this weekend.

It's slow going as I don't have a lot of time to dedicate so it's 5 min here - 15 min there. Oil drain took me 1.5 days.(sucked oil out first then drained last of it and letting it drip over night)
Changing the oil is NOT more difficult. Instead of using a 19mm socket on a ratchet, you use an adjustable wrench. That is the only difference. And you don't have to put a new oil drain bolt crush washer on each time you change the oil, so you save $0.16 each time, lol.

All of this being said, if you already have the pan off the car then I DO think its a good idea to have a fitting welded in somewhere above the filled oil line. That way you can completely remove the blower without having the drain the oil out of your car. Convenience is king.
Old 12-28-2014 | 06:48 PM
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Pinky since you have the pan off the car, throw it away! Get a Canton pan! Big thread on this here. People love them. 99SH has one and loves it. Come with extra bungs and with its baffling system it could save your engine.

I would have one but I bought Blacktrax baffled pan right before the Canton pan came out. If I could do it over I would. Besides baffling and the bungs it holds an extra quart of oil I think.
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