The potential supercharged F20C recipient
#83
It is indeed, the secondaries will go over the transaxle and around to a silencer on the other side of the engine down by the floorpan.
So many bends were needed to get the ideal length, which is more important than keeping the manifold straight, ideally of course, you'd have both, but there's not a lot of room there once there's a 33" tall wheel and tyre swinging up and down....
So many bends were needed to get the ideal length, which is more important than keeping the manifold straight, ideally of course, you'd have both, but there's not a lot of room there once there's a 33" tall wheel and tyre swinging up and down....
#85
Depends on where you want the torque, and how long a manifold you can fit in the engine bay. (there are a few different lengths you can choose to take advantage of different resonance peaks depending on how long you can fit in the car, the ones from a longer manifold are more powerful than those from a shorter).
Anyway the gears are fairly wide on the buggy, so I wanted to concentrate on bolstering the area from 4krpm to 7krpm (I don't think top end power is going to be much of an issue), there are different lengths for different resonant frequencies but that should put a good boost to the torque curve from approx 5.5krpm to 6.3krpms, and another around the 4k to 4.6krpm area, and one around 2.5krpm to 3krpm, which'll just help if the car finds some grip or sinks and bogs down somewhere - provided the math and a few assumptions are close anyhow!
Theoretically it may cost a few HP up top but the dyno will tell the story at the end!
Basically there should be a fair chunk more midrange than a stock car.
Anyway the gears are fairly wide on the buggy, so I wanted to concentrate on bolstering the area from 4krpm to 7krpm (I don't think top end power is going to be much of an issue), there are different lengths for different resonant frequencies but that should put a good boost to the torque curve from approx 5.5krpm to 6.3krpms, and another around the 4k to 4.6krpm area, and one around 2.5krpm to 3krpm, which'll just help if the car finds some grip or sinks and bogs down somewhere - provided the math and a few assumptions are close anyhow!
Theoretically it may cost a few HP up top but the dyno will tell the story at the end!
Basically there should be a fair chunk more midrange than a stock car.
#87
Haha, that welding ain't that great to look at tbh, we can do better
In my defence, the tubing is second hand and there's some shit in the inside (dairy tube from a place up the road who were replacing it) so I couldn't see the point in purging it, but then this ain't a show car, so fancy welds weren't a priority. I'll take £40 for all the materials for the exhaust - including the parts to make the silencer - over buying £400 of shiny new pipe to get fancy looking welding any day of the week !
In my defence, the tubing is second hand and there's some shit in the inside (dairy tube from a place up the road who were replacing it) so I couldn't see the point in purging it, but then this ain't a show car, so fancy welds weren't a priority. I'll take £40 for all the materials for the exhaust - including the parts to make the silencer - over buying £400 of shiny new pipe to get fancy looking welding any day of the week !
#89
Registered User
Function over form.
Incidentally, is there a reason these are rear engined and not mid engined or is it just easier to package?
#90
Very heavy rear bias on the weight distribution solely for traction, with it being RWD.
It was originally based around a beetle derived buggy with the engine hung out of the back, if it was a scratch build with this in aim to start with, things would have been a bit different - still be heavy on the rear but I would have done it by making the front lighter and sticking the engine over the back axle in a scratch build, instead of behind it!
It was originally based around a beetle derived buggy with the engine hung out of the back, if it was a scratch build with this in aim to start with, things would have been a bit different - still be heavy on the rear but I would have done it by making the front lighter and sticking the engine over the back axle in a scratch build, instead of behind it!