The potential supercharged F20C recipient
#681
#682
It's a lot smoother than it looks really, the suspension has taken most of the hit out - as you can see on that video it doesn't bounce off the stops at the back after landing, just settles and goes. The front is a bit rougher where it hits the skidpan but it's so light it doesn't matter too much there.
#683
As you say Buggy the back end just settles and goes. The still of the NSF tyre hitting the dirt is not showing the rebound if any.
But as @Nottm_S2 says I doubt I'd be walking after that. More just a pool of piss and brown stuff
But as @Nottm_S2 says I doubt I'd be walking after that. More just a pool of piss and brown stuff
#684
The front still wants a little work I need to change the damper valve stacks out similar to what I did to the rears, that'll help stop it hitting the stops on the face of the jump when it takes off.
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arsie (06-06-2023)
#685
Still don't ask. This is completely normal and 100% not a scary lash up, honest.
But at least they're back flat now:
So these discs warped when they were hot zinc plated, and the plan was originally to heat cycle them gently to get the stress out of them, then take them off the car and grind them flat before the car got used in anger.
That obviously never happened and because they were getting hot spots they got worse and worse lately - the things had more bow than a pringle in them.
Ground them back flat in a seriously Heath Robinson manner for now, just to get the brakes back, as it's been knocking the brake pads back and needing the pedal double pumping at higher speeds - they were half a mm out of true (discs should generally be under 0.05mm)
Obviously not good, so this is a temporary fix for now, and then we'll get some more cut either out of cast iron plate if we can manage it (which I originally wanted but our parts are so small you have to wait until somewhere has some spare offcuts basically) - or probably have them done out of 10mm thick plate next time, stress relieve them and then machine them back true to 8mm thick - I've already got a jig for it as we made one to do the discs originally before we got carried away and forgot :hehe:
But at least they're back flat now:
So these discs warped when they were hot zinc plated, and the plan was originally to heat cycle them gently to get the stress out of them, then take them off the car and grind them flat before the car got used in anger.
That obviously never happened and because they were getting hot spots they got worse and worse lately - the things had more bow than a pringle in them.
Ground them back flat in a seriously Heath Robinson manner for now, just to get the brakes back, as it's been knocking the brake pads back and needing the pedal double pumping at higher speeds - they were half a mm out of true (discs should generally be under 0.05mm)
Obviously not good, so this is a temporary fix for now, and then we'll get some more cut either out of cast iron plate if we can manage it (which I originally wanted but our parts are so small you have to wait until somewhere has some spare offcuts basically) - or probably have them done out of 10mm thick plate next time, stress relieve them and then machine them back true to 8mm thick - I've already got a jig for it as we made one to do the discs originally before we got carried away and forgot :hehe:
The following users liked this post:
chrispayze (07-02-2023)
#686
Well after all that work, one of the wheel bearings picked up, welded itself to the nut, unscrewed it, the hub slid off and the disc hit the caliper so now the disc is both bent and covered in melted aluminium. All that work sorting them out too...
I swear this car is cursed:
But we got a few decent pictures:
after some hours of work, we've traced the problem, which is 90% of the battle - it's no good fixing something if it's just going to do it again - but it looks like the spindle cinch nut had fatigued, and managed to vibrate loose, despite the cinch bolt being tight and loctited - most probably from material fatigue on the aluminium.
Then it vibrated looser and looser until the locking/tabbed washer finally dropped out of it's slot and then that allowed the bearing to spin the nut off, which explains the whole lot suddenly falling off on the last 3-4 corners - and why the right side is fine, the right side would tighten itself while driving from the rotation, while the left loosens. And also why the thread is only damaged on the end of the spindle and was fine in the nut.
Which also means it's a fairly easy fix of switching them out for some stronger steel castellated nuts and roll pins to secure them, and not some sort of issue with the front hub/spindle/bearing assembly we'd previously got away with.
Unfortunately, because of the damage caused when it did come off, that means we need to machine and weld on a new spindle, sort new bearings, fettle a little bit of damage to the brake mounting bells and make new brake discs...so it's not all smooth sailing.
Onwards with the machine work I guess...
I swear this car is cursed:
But we got a few decent pictures:
after some hours of work, we've traced the problem, which is 90% of the battle - it's no good fixing something if it's just going to do it again - but it looks like the spindle cinch nut had fatigued, and managed to vibrate loose, despite the cinch bolt being tight and loctited - most probably from material fatigue on the aluminium.
Then it vibrated looser and looser until the locking/tabbed washer finally dropped out of it's slot and then that allowed the bearing to spin the nut off, which explains the whole lot suddenly falling off on the last 3-4 corners - and why the right side is fine, the right side would tighten itself while driving from the rotation, while the left loosens. And also why the thread is only damaged on the end of the spindle and was fine in the nut.
Which also means it's a fairly easy fix of switching them out for some stronger steel castellated nuts and roll pins to secure them, and not some sort of issue with the front hub/spindle/bearing assembly we'd previously got away with.
Unfortunately, because of the damage caused when it did come off, that means we need to machine and weld on a new spindle, sort new bearings, fettle a little bit of damage to the brake mounting bells and make new brake discs...so it's not all smooth sailing.
Onwards with the machine work I guess...
#688
A different thread will sort it ie opposite to rotation to wheel or it will prolly happen again
Last edited by noodels; 07-12-2023 at 06:37 PM.
#689
It's always the little things eh! Glad it's a reasonably simple fix.
#690