toofast4yalll

The reliability issues of FD Rx7s have been discussed many times on S2ki. The general consensus by people who have no experience working on them is that they aren't reliable. The consensus by people who know what they're doing is that if you build and tune them correctly they are as reliable as any other 500whp turbo car. Most tuners would tune an Rx7 like a piston engine. However, the safe afr on a rotary engine is much different than the safe afr on a piston engine. If you tune an Rx7 too lean (what would normally be optimum afr's for an F20c), you risk blowing an apex seal. Also, another potential problem area is the oil pump. Rotary engines typically need/use more oil than a piston engine of the same displacement. Upgrading to an aftermarket oil pump with a baffled oil pan is not too expensive or difficult and greatly reduces the chance of oil starvation. Rotary engines make more power per liter and per pound BY FAR than piston engines. Why do you think rotary motors were banned from the 24 hours at Le Mans after the 787B walked away with the race in its first year. From the factory, Rx7s weigh the same as an AP1 and have 255bhp and lots more torque. They also handle just as well as an S2000. I have worked on LOTS of cars, but FD Rx7s are always going to hold a special place in my heart. They are extremely unique and rare, and have nearly the same power/weight potential as a Supra with much better handling attributes. You could build the Rx7 to 400whp like your S2000 for a lot cheape. You don't really need an Rx7 specific shop close by because rotary engines are much easier to learn than piston engines. Just make sure whoever tunes it knows the safe limits of a high-output rotary. Too bad you don't live near me, my shop loves working on Rx7s

p.s. I'm not a huge fan of S14s with SR20DET swaps because they have become dime a dozen lately.

liupj

No. They're very easy to mod and respond quite easily to modifications. Both WRX's and STI's. Getting an off-the-shelf tune is easy as well.

www.nasioc.com

pdexta

If you're looking for a project...

NA (first gen) Miata: $3000
+LS1: $4000
+Swap kit: $4500
+Brakes & Suspension: $2000
= $13,500

That'll give you got 300hp, and you're probably $1000 away from 500hp; not that you'll need more power with your traction issues and unbelievable light weight.

Or you can buy a SC AP1. I had mine for sale for months at $18,000 before I decided it was worth more to me than it was to anyone else.

AirborneS2K

[QUOTE=CKit,Sep 3 2007, 08:28 PM] Why are you selling your car?

bulldogs2k

Will this be your first bike? Regardless, good luck and dont kill your self.

AirborneS2K

[QUOTE=scottrunsxc,Sep 4 2007, 04:47 AM] If you're looking for a project...

NA (first gen) Miata: $3000
+LS1: $4000
+Swap kit: $4500
+Brakes & Suspension: $2000
= $13,500

That'll give you got 300hp, and you're probably $1000 away from 500hp; not that you'll need more power with your traction issues and unbelievable light weight.

Or you can buy a SC AP1.

PilotSi

I owned an FC, and was going to purchase an FD...And it's not the rotary engine taht's the problem in the FD. Mazda seriously under-built that car. That's why one of the first mods to do in an FD is to add a larger capacity IC and radiator. Add boost, and the life-span of that motor goes down quickly. Not many FDs (even stock) last past 70k. Those apex seals take a beating. I too looked at the FD before getting my S2k. And I had a friend working at Rotary Performance here in Garland TX, and far too often cars were just going down. They are terribly unreliable -- if you like working on cars, get an FD. If you like driving cars, I would seriously suggest something else.

I'm like you, I love the FD. But man, everytime you step on the gas, you really do fear blowing it up.

Skip Ferrari

MR2 Turbo

Johnny Sack

LS2+FD3S.

Penforhire

The FD racers I know don't complain about motor life. They complain about the various pressure seals that are always blowing.