One Extremely Nice Subaru STI
#21
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Location: Easton
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Originally Posted by [DT
,Feb 23 2010, 12:20 PM] The domain name of the site pretty much says it all
#24
Moderator
Originally Posted by IwantanS,Feb 23 2010, 02:06 PM
All the comments about the bad wheel fitment - you guys did notice the name of the website right? Wrongfitmentcrew.com
#26
Originally Posted by steviec,Feb 23 2010, 09:55 AM
Looks to be about 3 degrees of negative camber which in fact is within reason depending on the rest of the setup and the desired traits.
Furthermore, static camber means jack shit. It is all about dynamic camber during body roll.
To oversimplify, the idea is to make the outside tires have the ideal camber under weight transfer so that they generate the most grip. Making the inside tires generate as much grip as is possible is secondary, but usually insignificant with a symmetrical alignment (read: on a road course, rather than a circle track).
You have to plot the suspension kinematics to know how the camber changes under compression and you have to know how much compression to expect on a wheel (how much the suspension "squishes" in response to body roll) under a given g force.
Every car has slightly different suspension geometry and other characteristics, so it is impossible to say that x amount of static camber is ideal or even goodish for most cars.
Now, certain tires generate the most lateral grip at some quantity of negative camber, and that is completely unique to the model of tire. So, even assuming that you are talking about the same car, you may want a different camber setting depending on the specific characteristics of the tire. Most tires have a typical range, but there are exceptions.
If that's not complicated enough, you can have the same car with the same tire (and therefore a tire that has wants the same dynamic camber) but a nonlinear change in camber as the suspension moves throughout compression. What happens here is that you will have a different static camber setting for a given ride height. For example, if you want negative 5 degrees dynamic camber on the rear wheel (forget the front wheel for simplicity's sake) then you will need to have 2 degrees negative static camber on a car that is lowered 1 inch, and 3 degrees for a car that is lowered 2 inches. This is due to the fact that the suspension is starting at a different point in its arch than. If you start with the same static camber, you end up with dissimilar dynamic camber.
Also, you may not want the maximum level of grip on a given tire. If you have a car with 50/50 weight distribution, you will probably want a similar level of grip from both outside tires. But if your weight distribution is biased, you may want to generate more grip on the front or rear in order to make the less apt to understeer or oversteer. Therefore, you'd be adjusting camber to get a different slip angle out of a particular tire by way of using less than all of the available grip.
Even once you figure out what you think is a good setup in terms of kinematics, you may find that once you start feeding in loads that the suspension doesn't behave exactly the the way that you thought it would. This is why you do some test laps, measure tire temps, and then make adjustments to fine tune it for particular conditions.
In other words, you can't just look at a particular car and go "That's too much camber" without having any indication of what an ideal level of camber is for that particular vehicle, setup, and intended use.
Now that I've got all of that out of the way, yeah, this guy is probably just concerned with his car looking cool.
#29
In other words, you can't just look at a particular car and go "That's too much camber" without having any indication of what an ideal level of camber is for that particular vehicle, setup, and intended use.
I have not learned much but I have learned one thing. You can either turn good times on a road course or you can turn good times at auto-x. Never shall the two meet. Seriously, never.
Those that make fun of the cheap tires on the car. People please, cheap tires make for cheap thrills. While I would never call Azeni's a decent tire they are the best way to spend your dollars when you have a heavy right foot and the places/space to drive like an idiot.
#30
Registered User
i am al for fitting larger tires, and having a nice agressive wheel, but what's the point when you wider tire has a smaller comtact patch and you put the cheapest tire on that you can buy.
a car is suposed to handle better after you spend 3-5k on suspention mods wheels and tires.
a car is suposed to handle better after you spend 3-5k on suspention mods wheels and tires.