Non s2k related, but honda related, need some input
#1
Non s2k related, but honda related, need some input
Alright, here's the deal. I'm in the process of selling my b16a2 honda del sol with 14x,xxx miles on it.
Buyer wanted a compression test done. So I did it last night and got 185-155-180-155 as the results. The manual says that the range for a healthy engine should be 184-135. I know that the cylinders are a little far apart, but this guy is saying that the engine is no good and is trying to low ball me bad on the price.
Now the car drives perfect, has plenty of power throughout the power band (as much as a b16 can have!) The car drives and feels perfect. It burns no oil or coolant.
Hell, I thought the results were pretty damn good for a engine that had 140k miles on it.
What do you guys think about the test? Is it possible that my compression tester is not any good (20 year old craftsman tester)
Buyer wanted a compression test done. So I did it last night and got 185-155-180-155 as the results. The manual says that the range for a healthy engine should be 184-135. I know that the cylinders are a little far apart, but this guy is saying that the engine is no good and is trying to low ball me bad on the price.
Now the car drives perfect, has plenty of power throughout the power band (as much as a b16 can have!) The car drives and feels perfect. It burns no oil or coolant.
Hell, I thought the results were pretty damn good for a engine that had 140k miles on it.
What do you guys think about the test? Is it possible that my compression tester is not any good (20 year old craftsman tester)
#3
By my calculations, 10% would be 18.5 psi variance, I'm at 30psi, which is what, 15-16%?
I guess I'm going to try another compression tester and a leak down test to see if it's the rings, if not then I may just go head and replace the head gasket and valve seals.
I guess I'm going to try another compression tester and a leak down test to see if it's the rings, if not then I may just go head and replace the head gasket and valve seals.
#4
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A headgasket & valve seals are not the problem with your low compression.
The headgasket would be bad if you have 2 cylinders right next to each other with low compression. Valve seals affect oil consumption, not compression.
For an accurate diagnosis of what's wrong with your engine, you'll need to do a leakdown test.
If I were you I would save my money and wait for another buyer.
The headgasket would be bad if you have 2 cylinders right next to each other with low compression. Valve seals affect oil consumption, not compression.
For an accurate diagnosis of what's wrong with your engine, you'll need to do a leakdown test.
If I were you I would save my money and wait for another buyer.
#7
true that. I've already put way too much into it. put a grand into just rebuilding the rack and some new suspension bushings. Steering and suspension feels like a new car now though. It's actually pretty exciting to drive. If someone would test drive this thing it would sell in a heartbeat.
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#9
More importantly than dwelling on the actual number you get from your compression test, is to look at the % variation between cylinders. I would not share those numbers with the potential buyer just yet. If I saw those numebrs I would steer clear.
I would however worry that you potentially did the compression test incorrectly. Being that your two low numbers are not adjecent, that will in most circumstances eliminate a leaking headgasket / cracked head etc. and indicate that the potential of the test being done inconsistantly is greater
I would be interested in seeing you perform this test again, in as much of a controlled and consistant environment as possible.
Car should be at warm, fuel disabled, throttle held WIDE OPEN, ALL spark plugs removed before testing begins, test each cylinder one after another ( dont do half the test then come back later for the rest), and make sure you crank each cylinder consistantly. Pick a rule and follow it. Either 5 complete cranks, 5 seconds, or crank until the guage maxes out.
I would however worry that you potentially did the compression test incorrectly. Being that your two low numbers are not adjecent, that will in most circumstances eliminate a leaking headgasket / cracked head etc. and indicate that the potential of the test being done inconsistantly is greater
I would be interested in seeing you perform this test again, in as much of a controlled and consistant environment as possible.
Car should be at warm, fuel disabled, throttle held WIDE OPEN, ALL spark plugs removed before testing begins, test each cylinder one after another ( dont do half the test then come back later for the rest), and make sure you crank each cylinder consistantly. Pick a rule and follow it. Either 5 complete cranks, 5 seconds, or crank until the guage maxes out.
#10
quick question? did you perform the test correctly? I.E. have the throttle body open when you were performing the test? i've had the same problem when i did one in trade school, was taught the correct way all the cylinders evened out...just a suggestion
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