New Tires cause allignment problems?
09-03-2005, 08:19 PM
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New Tires cause allignment problems?
So I just recently purchased new tires for my Integra GSR. I buy one size wider than stock. I go to my local mechanic and go get an allignment. My car needed the allignment back when I had the previous tires on, but now after taking my car back they said it was my new tires causing the allignment problem! The car pulls worse than it did before.
They balanced/rotated/alligned my wheels and tires and still could not fix it.
Is it even possible for new tires to cause the wheel allignment problem?
Should I just go take it someplace else?
They balanced/rotated/alligned my wheels and tires and still could not fix it.
Is it even possible for new tires to cause the wheel allignment problem?
Should I just go take it someplace else?
09-03-2005, 10:29 PM
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Absolutely.
1) You say that it was pulling before but not as much? Than your car may have some camber/caster out of spec, and now that you have some tires that actually grip harder and cut into the road, your car can no longer override, as the tires are too powerful.
2) The way that tires are constructed in belt form, there can sometimes be what is called a "Tire Pull". This is overlooked all the time by other shops and people. They'll come to me so eager to drop $70+ bucks on aligning their car again, when it was just a tire pull. The belts inside radial tires run [I]radially[I] around the bead like threads on the inside of a screw top. Sometimes they are laid unevenly or are different thicknesses. This makes it like putting a rubber band on one side of a pop can and trying to roll it straight.
Ask this place (or do it yourself) do do try this: Your car is in spec, than rotate the fronts with each other, if they are directional check that the directions are rotating properly, then rotate the front to rear rear to front. If it pulled left then it pulls right after rotating, then it is the original LF tire that is faulty. If right then left after rotating then it is the original RF that is faulty. You would get the new tire for free by the way as it is a "manufacturer defect"
Those are the basics. Sorry for the length but there are so many people with this same question and problem and don't know about that possibility and they spend al a lot of their money and time. Hopefully this will help people out.
1) You say that it was pulling before but not as much? Than your car may have some camber/caster out of spec, and now that you have some tires that actually grip harder and cut into the road, your car can no longer override, as the tires are too powerful.
2) The way that tires are constructed in belt form, there can sometimes be what is called a "Tire Pull". This is overlooked all the time by other shops and people. They'll come to me so eager to drop $70+ bucks on aligning their car again, when it was just a tire pull. The belts inside radial tires run [I]radially[I] around the bead like threads on the inside of a screw top. Sometimes they are laid unevenly or are different thicknesses. This makes it like putting a rubber band on one side of a pop can and trying to roll it straight.
Ask this place (or do it yourself) do do try this: Your car is in spec, than rotate the fronts with each other, if they are directional check that the directions are rotating properly, then rotate the front to rear rear to front. If it pulled left then it pulls right after rotating, then it is the original LF tire that is faulty. If right then left after rotating then it is the original RF that is faulty. You would get the new tire for free by the way as it is a "manufacturer defect"
Those are the basics. Sorry for the length but there are so many people with this same question and problem and don't know about that possibility and they spend al a lot of their money and time. Hopefully this will help people out.
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