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Old 08-12-2015, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mosesbotbol
Originally Posted by hirev' timestamp='1439238092' post='23710295
so those of your out there who long for a bmw 335 , this happened with the former turbo 6 , the fuel pumps, etc...they recoded the engine and said it was all new, the problems did not go away...i trust the 4 cyl does not have this problem....
Buying a BMW was your only mistake... Would not buy one at all.

I looooooooooooove mine and will buy more.

Ok to the OP, now you say it is "like" limp mode, but not limp mode and no codes? I am confused. If it is not officially "limp" mode this is just a huge drop in power when cold?

I wonder if the computer can log reading knock, and are you using at a minimum 91 octane?

I had freakish issues with a subie once. The dealer put 87 octane in it, it would knock and uck and sputter under boost, but even after putting in better gas, it "learned" the areas that would knock with 87 and would still run like crap until reflashed. But you have had that done already. Although if you are consistently using cheap gas I could see problems.

If you have a cold engine, that is restricting boost until normal operating temp and IF you are also getting knock from using cheap gas, I can see the car pulling a crap ton of timing and not wanting to go over 40 mph.

If you are trying to get by with low octane because it is just a lease, I would try a couple tanks of BP 93.

But on second thought, this also sounds similar to another car I had. Mystery turbo problem and it turned out to be a bad injector. I wonder if your DI system is got a bunch of carbon buildup. Did they look at that possibility at all?

Also, a couple old limp mode issues and problems found in this thread:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=661709
Old 08-13-2015, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mosesbotbol
Originally Posted by hirev' timestamp='1439238092' post='23710295
so those of your out there who long for a bmw 335 , this happened with the former turbo 6 , the fuel pumps, etc...they recoded the engine and said it was all new, the problems did not go away...i trust the 4 cyl does not have this problem....
Buying a BMW was your only mistake... Would not buy one at all.
Says the guy who raves on and on about Lotus which stands of Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. If your idea of quality is Lotus you can't say a thing about BMW. The 10+ BMW's I've owned had less random issues than my Elise did. German engineering and q/c is better than British or Malaysian or whatever it is these days.
Old 08-13-2015, 09:49 AM
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So when i say "limp mode" this is what i mean....power lost, will not accelerate beyond 40 mph, period. Push on the go pedal and it does nothing. No matter what gear i am in. The only fix is to pull over, shut off (you can't shut off and restart while moving), then restart and it works just fine. Normally not a hiccup, just once in a blue moon.

Car sees 24-27 mpg every day and over 30 on trips. goes like stink. the hendling in any mode is soft for me and BOUNCY, not what i expected from an M sportline.

the electronics are very complex , the (improved) idrive is crap that you have to get used to to operate the car, the buttons on the dash and windows don't always work the first time.....its a nice car but it has issues. I cannot recommend one. There are other things that just are a turn off. I don't think this model was really designed to have a manual gearbox, drove one with automatic, it seemed perfectly suited for the trans given this issue.

Put a code reader on it and it shows no codes. No check engine lights ever. Happens in sport mode as i drive it that way usually, I then switched to sport +, it happened in that mode too. only on warm up and within the first 10 min of driving. i can drive normally in traffic till I try to punch it (on ramp).

There is "supposed to be" check engine lights and codes stored for this. BMW showed me the code read out, it showed codes all over the place adn no codes they could use, and i don't remember what they were.

I think it is a sensor, confused having to do with warm up cycle. Best alternative fix suggested is throw a tune on it. I have been uncomfy with that, it's not my car and even though it has been said it is 100% reversible and detectible and costs about $400 I have not done it. That's my next step, then again it does it like every 1000-5000 miles or so...go figure.
Old 08-13-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
Says the guy who raves on and on about Lotus which stands of Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. If your idea of quality is Lotus you can't say a thing about BMW. The 10+ BMW's I've owned had less random issues than my Elise did. German engineering and q/c is better than British or Malaysian or whatever it is these days.
At least you can fix a Lotus when it does breaks. The lack of electronics and options is to its benefit.

British are making the best cars in Europe right now. Aston, McLaren, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Jaguar, Land Rover, and Lotus... are better products right now than what BMW, Audi, Mercedes, and Porsche has on offer.
Old 08-13-2015, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mosesbotbol
Originally Posted by CosmosMpower' timestamp='1439472812' post='23713332
Says the guy who raves on and on about Lotus which stands of Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. If your idea of quality is Lotus you can't say a thing about BMW. The 10+ BMW's I've owned had less random issues than my Elise did. German engineering and q/c is better than British or Malaysian or whatever it is these days.
At least you can fix a Lotus when it does breaks. The lack of electronics and options is to its benefit.

British are making the best cars in Europe right now. Aston, McLaren, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Jaguar, Land Rover, and Lotus... are better products right now than what BMW, Audi, Mercedes, and Porsche has on offer.
you are crazy. all the companies you mentioned have just as many problems if not more than their german counterparts.

And no you can't fix a lotus when it breaks b.c lotus can't fix simple shit like door locks. This is coming from someone who has had years of experience both with the elige and evora lineup.
Old 08-14-2015, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by s.hasan546
you are crazy. all the companies you mentioned have just as many problems if not more than their german counterparts.
Better doesn't not necessarily mean more reliable... More advanced construction, better fabrication of suspension parts, & more refined design. British has more automotive design talent than any country other country in Europe. Between auto manufacturing (which is at an all time high), motorsport companies & and ancillary companies that support motorsport; no other country has the volume of automotive talent like they do. It's showing big time on the cars coming out of Britain in the last decade.
Old 08-14-2015, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by hirev
So when i say "limp mode" this is what i mean....power lost, will not accelerate beyond 40 mph, period. Push on the go pedal and it does nothing. No matter what gear i am in. The only fix is to pull over, shut off (you can't shut off and restart while moving), then restart and it works just fine. Normally not a hiccup, just once in a blue moon.

Car sees 24-27 mpg every day and over 30 on trips. goes like stink. the hendling in any mode is soft for me and BOUNCY, not what i expected from an M sportline.

the electronics are very complex , the (improved) idrive is crap that you have to get used to to operate the car, the buttons on the dash and windows don't always work the first time.....its a nice car but it has issues. I cannot recommend one. There are other things that just are a turn off. I don't think this model was really designed to have a manual gearbox, drove one with automatic, it seemed perfectly suited for the trans given this issue.

Put a code reader on it and it shows no codes. No check engine lights ever. Happens in sport mode as i drive it that way usually, I then switched to sport +, it happened in that mode too. only on warm up and within the first 10 min of driving. i can drive normally in traffic till I try to punch it (on ramp).

There is "supposed to be" check engine lights and codes stored for this. BMW showed me the code read out, it showed codes all over the place adn no codes they could use, and i don't remember what they were.

I think it is a sensor, confused having to do with warm up cycle. Best alternative fix suggested is throw a tune on it. I have been uncomfy with that, it's not my car and even though it has been said it is 100% reversible and detectible and costs about $400 I have not done it. That's my next step, then again it does it like every 1000-5000 miles or so...go figure.
I am still curious if you are using crappy octane fuel, but from what you describe I would still insist the dealer throw in new air and water temp sensors if they can't find the issue. They are cheap, it would rule them out, and if it does not fix the problem it narrows it down quite a bit. After the sensors are ruled out you are down to a DI problem (but your mileage is good), VANOS, and maybe watsegate issue leaking boost.

I don't know why you have issues with Idrive, it is now considered to be one of, if not the best system on the market. I know all the menus backwards and forwards. It takes a little getting used to, but it is pretty easy and intuitive after that.
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