Best Beater
#11
I saw a 1992 Accord for $500 with 172K miles in Houston. Needed a new passenger door but they had one for $85+installation, so that's well under your cost.
Wasn't a pretty car but it'd be a great beater.
Wasn't a pretty car but it'd be a great beater.
#13
No, just an old car that someone wanted to get rid of.
A Sable/Taurus is definitely doable but man, they're usually in rough shape by the time they're down to the $1K mark. At $2500, the choices are a LOT better, I think.
A Sable/Taurus is definitely doable but man, they're usually in rough shape by the time they're down to the $1K mark. At $2500, the choices are a LOT better, I think.
#14
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Yeah, pretty much any 88+ Honda would fit the bill. I'd go with an Accord, just for comfort, but a Civic would work, too. I'd stick with a manual tranny and the fewest doo-dads possible.
I suspect you could pick up a car like my 95 Accord EX sedan for ~1500. Mine has pretty high mileage (205K), but is in really good mechanical condition. A DX or LX should be even cheaper. I prefer the EX over the others for a few reasons: 1) Power windows/locks are nice, though the motors on mine are getting pretty slow and that is worrisome. 2) Sunroof is great in Texas. It's not the same as a drop-top S2000, but still helps move more air. 3) Disc brakes all around makes pad changes a cinch. However, replacing the rotors up front requires pressing it out of the hub (or was it the rears? I forget). I converted mine to a rotor-over-hub design when I had to replace my rotors, which will make it much easier next time, in case I keep it long enough to have to do it again.
I suspect you could pick up a car like my 95 Accord EX sedan for ~1500. Mine has pretty high mileage (205K), but is in really good mechanical condition. A DX or LX should be even cheaper. I prefer the EX over the others for a few reasons: 1) Power windows/locks are nice, though the motors on mine are getting pretty slow and that is worrisome. 2) Sunroof is great in Texas. It's not the same as a drop-top S2000, but still helps move more air. 3) Disc brakes all around makes pad changes a cinch. However, replacing the rotors up front requires pressing it out of the hub (or was it the rears? I forget). I converted mine to a rotor-over-hub design when I had to replace my rotors, which will make it much easier next time, in case I keep it long enough to have to do it again.
#15
There is no such thing as a 1,000 car that only costs 1,000. I'd stick in the 4-5k range where you can still get a good value and not just a good initial price, which is irrelevant.
#18
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I'm really surprised how many people are willing to recommend cars apprioching 20 years old without knowing the things history. A 1990 Civic or Corolla can be a reliable car if the service has been kept up. However, if things haven't been done correctly it can just as easily turn out like my 1991 Corolla which was but 9 years old when the head gasket took a dump and cost me $800 in parts and rebuilding the head. The shop that looked at the car said $2000+ or they would buy it off me for $200.
Again at the $1k price point you can't be picky. Condition is the most critical thing. I would also add look at the service history. I helped a friend look at a used 1996 Accord recently. The interior was in good shape and the car had only 70,000 miles but the car had issues. The automatic shifted very poorly. The exhaust had a leak somewhere and the timing belt hadn't been changed. Ignoring the shifting and exhaust, the timing belt change would have added $500-$1000 to the price of this cheap car. Because the Honda engine is an interference engine I wouldn't risk the belt (I might in a Mazda or Toyota).
Condition, not brand, is everything at this low price point.
Again at the $1k price point you can't be picky. Condition is the most critical thing. I would also add look at the service history. I helped a friend look at a used 1996 Accord recently. The interior was in good shape and the car had only 70,000 miles but the car had issues. The automatic shifted very poorly. The exhaust had a leak somewhere and the timing belt hadn't been changed. Ignoring the shifting and exhaust, the timing belt change would have added $500-$1000 to the price of this cheap car. Because the Honda engine is an interference engine I wouldn't risk the belt (I might in a Mazda or Toyota).
Condition, not brand, is everything at this low price point.
#19
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Originally Posted by foxy_s2k,Nov 12 2008, 12:15 AM
1990 Volkswagen Golf GTi 16v (mk 2). I've had 4 in my life and am considering buying another one for the exact same reason as you, something to DD. They handle amazing for FFs, and are not slow, I never get bored of driving them, especially around town where you can't really rev the S.
#20
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Originally Posted by cravnpup,Nov 12 2008, 10:01 PM
E30 325. I bought mine for $1200, and sold it a year later for $3200. Got 30mpg, and it never broke down..
how did you sell it for $3200 thou?! i wanna know what's the trick!!