where to go?
07-02-2009, 05:01 PM
#1
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where to go?
Hi! I'm looking for a shop that does cut and re-thread shifter.
anyone has a recommendation? and how much it will be?
Thank you in advance!
preferably in North OC or Walnut area.
anyone has a recommendation? and how much it will be?
Thank you in advance!
preferably in North OC or Walnut area.
07-02-2009, 06:09 PM
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cutting the shifter does not make it a true short shifter....
it just makes the stick shorter...
If you want a true short shifter try C's short shifter. its actually engineered with a different fulcrum point. but its sort of expensive.. but hey.. gotta pay to play..
http://www.nengun.com/cs/short-shifter
it just makes the stick shorter...
If you want a true short shifter try C's short shifter. its actually engineered with a different fulcrum point. but its sort of expensive.. but hey.. gotta pay to play..
http://www.nengun.com/cs/short-shifter
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07-02-2009, 06:37 PM
#8
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My advice: (I bought a CR knob and did this)
Step one... skip the thick lock-nut at the bottom so you can go another 1/2" further down and just over tighten as needed to make it sit straight.
Step two... cut 1/3" of threads off that will top out inside the knob
earlier than needed.
Step three... bore out 1/2" to 1" of the inside of the shift knob and re-tap/chase the threads to go further.
All in all using these methods mines about as low as I'd wanna ever go, actually it's a bit lower. The shifting action is fine how it is stock in my mind. I just wish the shifter was closer to the steering wheel like a rally car is rather than lowering it further away. As for throw time delay vs leverage, you'll find that super short shift kits actually make shifting times worse. You need to change the fulcrum point as 9000addiction stated to have it actually work out correct and be beneficial otherwise it's just a trade off.
The one reason I see for doing this is if you want to be lazy like me and have your arm/wrist at a comfy angle when you're cruising with only one hand on the wheel like you shouldn't be.
Hope this info is at least mildly helpful to you.
-Greg
Step one... skip the thick lock-nut at the bottom so you can go another 1/2" further down and just over tighten as needed to make it sit straight.
Step two... cut 1/3" of threads off that will top out inside the knob
earlier than needed.
Step three... bore out 1/2" to 1" of the inside of the shift knob and re-tap/chase the threads to go further.
All in all using these methods mines about as low as I'd wanna ever go, actually it's a bit lower. The shifting action is fine how it is stock in my mind. I just wish the shifter was closer to the steering wheel like a rally car is rather than lowering it further away. As for throw time delay vs leverage, you'll find that super short shift kits actually make shifting times worse. You need to change the fulcrum point as 9000addiction stated to have it actually work out correct and be beneficial otherwise it's just a trade off.
The one reason I see for doing this is if you want to be lazy like me and have your arm/wrist at a comfy angle when you're cruising with only one hand on the wheel like you shouldn't be.
Hope this info is at least mildly helpful to you.
-Greg
but voodoo knob itself has only .2" inch left between the top of the knob and the top of the threads/hole.
07-02-2009, 06:46 PM
#10
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^ So do the other things and rule out the drilling of the knob, should still score you a fair bit. I mean honestly those 1/2" changes add up to a big change.
GL
GL