Where can find Turbo Installing Shop Southern Cali
#31
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,030
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From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
Originally Posted by SharpShooter,Jul 14 2010, 05:52 PM
Question:
How do you guys get the turbo pass Carb? take it off, and put it back on, or shady shop style? has anyone get pulled over while on turbo before?
How do you guys get the turbo pass Carb? take it off, and put it back on, or shady shop style? has anyone get pulled over while on turbo before?
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#32
damn... okok, so from cop point of view, would you pull over someone runs a turbo S2k? cuz high chance that it is not carb legal. BTW, is Greddy's kit for real Carb Certified, but heard the kit has a lot of problems....
#33
Originally Posted by jari8378,Jul 14 2010, 03:36 PM
I highly suggest your read DDSCD's build thread on the FI forum.
The F20C/22C is easiest to mod, basically leave the motor stock. Honda had the best engineers working on this project, you are almost guaranteed a motor with poor tolerances and reliability if you pop it open. Secondly since it was built to take a beating, low boost can be run on it without reducing its lifetime significantly. A setup like this is simple and easy to troubleshoot, maintains drivability and reliability.
With either a built motor or stock pushing for more than 400whp on 91 octane is silly to me. You have to give up either reliability or driveability and very likely both. The NSX is the proper Honda to try something like that; given it's larger displacement such tradeoffs need not be made for 500whp.
#34
EXCEPT... I think trusting Laskey or InlinePro with the build is going to net a fantastic motor. I'll find out as I'll have the Laskey 700hp build at some point when I get to it here. We'll see what happens from there.
The stock block IMO is good for 400hp safe and 450hp at the absolute max in terms of a car that is "street friendly". I know over 600hp has been made on a stock block for extended periods of times but those are freak motors not the common situation. Not to mention anything over 400hp in a S.... you better have a lot of aero mods and suspension mods to match the power you've added. Remember this is a ~210whp stock car now making double that.
#35
I suggest your folks give L&T Auto in City of Industry (on Valley) a try. They have been serving and modding mine for about 2 years now.
They have an Integra that pushes 1000+ WHP for drag and built by themselves. They sure know what they are doing.
They just bought in a s2k for another monster project.
PM me if you need a referral for deal!!
They have an Integra that pushes 1000+ WHP for drag and built by themselves. They sure know what they are doing.
They just bought in a s2k for another monster project.
PM me if you need a referral for deal!!
#38
With these motors I'll always put my money on the stock one. Take a 11:1 built motor against a new Oem unit and add FI. If any make it to 50k miles, it will be the stocker.
The only reason to build it is to get lower compression, which again = poor driveability on a 2.0/2.2 500whp motor.
The only reason to build it is to get lower compression, which again = poor driveability on a 2.0/2.2 500whp motor.
#39
^ I can drop the compression a couple points with just a head gasket, the bottom end however is only good for 450ish and actually, it's TQ that we should be talking about when it comes to bottom ends. SC motors do less strain on the bottom end because they never make monster power down low on our cars, thus the rods and bearings get a easy day. A small/midframe turbo however starts dumping 14lbs of boost in at as early as 5k rpm. THAT is monstrous amounts of stress on the internals. The TQ on the car stock is what 163-167ft/lbs? Now we're talking about a car making 400ft/lbs of tq. The stresses are INSANE in comparison to stock and will annihilate the stock motor if ran regularly like this. Honda did their homework yes but they did it with very little safety margin on what is considered an already stressed motor in terms of production cars. Doubling the hp and tq on a stock motor is never going to be trustworthy.
I understand your point of course. It's about drivability/longevity vs HP
You'll find lower CR such as 9:1 on this motor isn't bad at all. Many people would hardly notice the difference from 11.1:1, I actually thought it would be a bigger drop. I was wrong (happens) but the tuning gains are much much worth it. Mind you the car will need to be warmed up now as the pistons swell more and rattle around until warm etc. etc. there will be more things to be careful of.
At this point..... assuming things are built well, I'd put my money on whichever had a better tune. I got a stock motor that didn't last 38k with only 7lbs of boost...... go figure. Super safe tune, great preventative on my part and still toasted. Here I am, ready to go fully built now.
I understand your point of course. It's about drivability/longevity vs HP
You'll find lower CR such as 9:1 on this motor isn't bad at all. Many people would hardly notice the difference from 11.1:1, I actually thought it would be a bigger drop. I was wrong (happens) but the tuning gains are much much worth it. Mind you the car will need to be warmed up now as the pistons swell more and rattle around until warm etc. etc. there will be more things to be careful of.
At this point..... assuming things are built well, I'd put my money on whichever had a better tune. I got a stock motor that didn't last 38k with only 7lbs of boost...... go figure. Super safe tune, great preventative on my part and still toasted. Here I am, ready to go fully built now.
#40
I have had my turbo in my car for 2 years. I have put on about 24k and still running strong making 403whp. I'm running 20psi of boost one 91 pump gas and loving it. So if you want your motor to last. It's comes down to a few things. The build, tuning, power level and maintenance. I hope to make the 50k mark( cross my fingers).