reds2

I also have the Racing Beat 4.44 Mazda Gears, I've had them in for years with no issue. I think I was one of the first to buy the gears from them. I had the work done at Ramjet.

05TurboS2k

I much agree with this. I've generally been against such short gearing.

Squirtle

short gearing is always better unless you shift like Greg. Ba-zing!

In other news - thank you everyone for the copious amounts of information and help in this thread. I think I will go Bosco's route and have Evasive take care of the car for me.

05TurboS2k

Noooope. Un-zing your ba-zing.

Then why not gear it so the top speed is only 60mph. Do you think 0-60 times would be faster in that case? It wouldn't be,you just spend more time shifting and less time on the throttle. Also there reaches a point where the first gears overlap in terms of traction being lower than the amount of power at hand, If you have 1000hp you could spin the wheel in 2nd gear at any moment, thus 1st gear is mostly useless since second would do it's job and continue pulling further without the need to shift.

Worrrrrd.

Squirtle

obviously there is a point of diminishing returns Greg, lol.

f20kills

^^^NEVER... MOAR is bettA..American way!

Duke Togo

Though I don't know where to buy them there is a AUS kia gear set that's 4.67 ish which would make the AP1 geared pretty close to a late model RSX Type S and I really feel having driven quite a few that it's suitable for tracking.

I was going to hunt them down until I realized my larger than stock tire profile makes the gearing essentially the same.

And performance is debatable metric, there are probably lots of places where you can stay in fourth as a result of the shortened gearing and with the extra tq multiplier you could launch the car in second gear and possibly shave down considerable 1/4 mile times.

I will have to say this of the three people I know who went from 4.7 to 4.4 all of them went back to 4.7, if you only do high speed tracks or have a grip of power choose accordingly. I'd love to build a separate 3.9 diff just for standing mile runs though.

petawabit

from my researches for gears, I think 4.44 would be optimal for the ap2 where the 4.77 would be a little too much for the ap2 (great for the ap1, I've read). what is your type of driving, squirtle? If you're a drag racer, like duke, then MAYBE the 4.77 may be better, but for HPDE's, I strongly believe the 4.44's are best suited. If you want gears to make you feel faster and to increase the fun factor of driving, then the 4.77s would be good in that regard as well.

Duke Togo

Actually I don't think the 4.7's are suited to drag racing depending on power ect I do think they are good for mid range like auto x and general passing power or pull for canyon driving ect. On my car currently I feel like 4th is perfect on an incline but I would like a little more pull without going down to 3rd. Some of the higher speed autox courses almost require the 4.7's.

Trap speeds should be in the 100mph range stock in that case with the 4.7's on the ap1 you'd need to shift into 5th and almost into 6th in the ap2 before factoring in the actual gain of the shorter gearing which would make it probably a certainty.

The ap1 for drag with an all motor setup lets say should stick to stock or maybe 4.4 the AP2 should never do a 4.& unless it's a dedicated autox car IMO

SoCalAp2

I guess one good example would be the 2009 Sti 6 speed 300hp vs 2009 WRX 5 speed 260hp (in terms of 0-60, WRX was faster because 1 less shift than STi)