thebleeding

I'm going to get stock pads but am curious what other options there are for rotors. which ones should I look at that are around the price of OE but better in quality? Slotted/drilled? My S is daily driven.

Thanks

EDIT: I seen some drilled EBC's that are nicley priced at what seems to be $160 a pair. Part # EBC-GD7088. Anyone have experience with these?

s2k_dreams

Other than looks, drilled rotors don't do much. Some will argue that slotted rotors help evacuate the gases away from the disc or that the slots help to create more friction for the pads to bite. If your main use is daily driving i would just get OEM rotors and use better brake pads and tires if you want increased braking performance.

thebleeding

Yeah that's what I was leaning towards. I also noticed that EBC has some OE replacement rotors. Any good?

Thanks

thebleeding

up up up

Milc

One of my rotors are warped so I was thinking to one up my rotors too.

oneboy2c

I would not touch the s2000's brakes. I switched to different pads and crossdrilled rotors. Then I went to the wilwood kit. To me, the best brakes were the stock brakes. Maybe no for track use, but the best stopping power I got were the stock brakes.

RollerBoy

Blank rotors will offer you the best instant braking power which is what you need for the street. there is just more surface contact over the whole rotor.

For endurance braking (road racing track), people have said Slotted and xdrilled rotors help prevent gases from getting trapped between the pads and rotors which will cause them to glaze over and fail.

however xdrilled are never recommended only cross casted holes.. drilled rotors take blank rotors and drilling holes causing the duribility of the rotor as a whole to be weaker. Sometimes causing them to crack/break.

also to keep in mind slotted/drilled rotors have less surface area to make contact with the pad.

you cant go wrong with blank rotors.

05TurboS2k

NEVER CROSS DRILLED!!!!

The cooling capabilities are actually worse, keep in mind that it means less surface area and that means HOTTER.

People forget about the PAD being HOT, not just the rotor. The rotor spreads it's heat over 6 times the space that the pad does.

There have been numerous studies showing Xdrilled does nothing but increase cracking and decrease braking ability.

MANY YEARS AGO cross drilled was needed, because asbestos pads used to make a lot of gas and thus it would become trapped. This is no longer the case as of the last 30+ years (might be even way more). It's time companies stop building for looks when it comes to brakes. The only benefits I see are WEIGHT LOSS!

I've ran both in numerous cars and I can honestly say my best brakes were just slotted, and who knows maybe they woulda been better without the slots.

The slots I can ......sorta support, on the grounds that the prevent glazing of the pads to some degree and may clean the pad off more.

In off-road we use slots etc. to clean the disc of debris like dirt or water/oil etc.

Please research this thoroughly and I believe you'll find the leading engineers in this field are the ones writing what I am simply regurgitating.

-Greg

05TurboS2k

I've run nearly all the EBC stuff that exists.
(Friend happens to be the U.S. Rep for the past 10+ years)

EBC is top notch stuff in general but every company makes a good and bad pad depending on the application.

EBC uses terms w/ regards to colors "red stuff" "blue stuff" "yellow stuff" "green stuff" to indicate the intended usage.

I ran their rotors in a past but not on my S. They were solid, they held up well to glowing red many many days and never warped. They are made from high quality materials and the holes/slotting they do is from the original cast so the cracking is at least minimized. Still I give a hard time to them for the drilled.

Just makes sure you are aware of the usage intended. Some equates to brake dust, some means extra rotor wear, some means only stops safely when very hot (race pads) so you need to be aware of the safety factors and such. (run on sentence)

-Greg

05TurboS2k

TO BACK UP MY OPINION HERE IS A MUCH BETTER SPOKEN PERSON EXPLAINING THE SAME THING

http://forums.venommotorsports.com/default...x?g=posts&t=118

Please read post #5
Here's what it says

Those Poor Rotors

Let's look at some common rotor "modification" and "performance" upgrades that you may have been exposed to. We'll try to separate the marketing from the engineering: Bigger rotors will make your friends think you are cool, bigger rotors look sexy, but bigger rotors do not stop the car. What a bigger rotor will do is lower the overall operating temperature of the brakes--which is a GREAT idea IF your temperatures are causing problems with other ports of the braking system.

Take, for example, a Formula 500 racer, a small 800-pound, single-seat formula car. While the brakes are certainly much smaller than those found on a 3000-pound GT1 Camaro, that does not necessarily mean that they need to be made larger. In fact, installing o GT1 brake package onto our formula car would probably do more harm than good. That's a lot of steel hanging on the wheel that needs to accelerate each time the gas pedal is pushed. So the motto of this story is bigger is better until your temperatures are under control. After that point, you are doing more harm than good, unless you really like the look. (And hey, some of us do.)

Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad face and the rotor, acting as a lubricant and effectively lowering the coefficient of friction. The holes were implemented to give the gasses somewhere to go. It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads.

For this reason, the holes have carried over more as a design feature than a performance feature. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it.

The one glaring exception here is in the rare situation where the rotors are so oversized that they need to be drilled like Swiss cheese. (Look at any performance motorcycle or lighter formula car, for an example.) While the issues of stress risers and brake pad wear are still present, drilling is used to reduce the mass of the parts in spite of these concerns. Remember that nothing comes for free. If these teams switched to non-drilled rotors, they would see lower operating temperatures and longer brake pad life, at the expense of higher weight. It's all about tradeoffs.

Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

Lastly I appologize for long post # 3498753487957.
-Greg