Cusco 3-Piece subframe install guide.
07-28-2004, 11:24 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Torrance, CA 90509
Posts: 2,011
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cusco 3-Piece subframe install guide.
OK, got the kit on. I quickly realized the folly of jacking up all four corners, but just jacking up the front worked OK. The install was pretty easy, the bolts were all agreeable, fitment was good. More comments after the install below.
Since I couldn't find any directions in english, I had no way of knowing how to install this. Below is the list of steps I went through, only to document what I did. If you choose to use them as instructions, use them at your own discretion - I might have done it wrong.
Kit installs at 20lbs, and includes:
Left bar (8lbs)
Right bar (8lbs)
Cross Bar (4lbs)
2 bolts (.2lbs)
Useless directions (no pictures) in Japanese
Neato sticker
Wrapped
Unwrapped
Tools needed:
6mm Allen wrench (L shaped)
17mm socket
19mm socket
rachet
torque wrench
1) Lay out the two side bars with the left/right labels facing down; left is driver right is pssenger.
2) Lay out the cross bar between them with the hump pointing at the front of the car.
3) Using the 17mm socket and the 6mm Allen wrench, lightly bolt the cross bar, with the hex nuts facing up; it is easy to get the Allen wrench in there to tighten it right before you finish the front.
4) EBrake, 6th gear, and chock up the back wheels before jacking the front end WAY up. I used jackstands and had ramps lined up under the front tires just in case.
5) Using the 19mm socket, loosen the rear bolts (indicated by red circles above). Once loose, I was able to undo them by hand. They are fairly long, about 6", so it takes a while.
6) Pick up one bar at the back end, thread the bolt, and give it a few hand turns to anchor it but don't bolt it down yet. Be cautious, don't cross thread it! Pick up the other bar, do the same. Your install should look like this:
7) Using the 17mm socket, remove the front boltsas seen above. They are about 8" long, so they take an even longer while than the rear bolts. Once loosened, I was also able to remove these by hand.
8) Thread the front bolts through each side of the brace and loosely tighten them by hand.
9) Do your best to center the brace across all 4 bolts.
10) Tighten down the back bolts with the 19mm rachet until they are just snug, but do not apply torque. You will notice they rotate slightly as they snug up.
11) Tighten the front bolts until you have about an inch and a half of clearance as seen above.
12) Use the 6mm Allen wrench and 17mm rachet to tighten the bolts on the crossbar (not the ront bolts!). I don't know what the torque specs are on this, and I bolted them down pretty damn hard.
13) Tighten the front bolts down the rest of the way.
14) Torque the front and rear bolts to factory specs:
Front bolts: 59 N.m (6.0 kgf.m, 43 lbf.ft)
Rear Bolts: 103N.m (10.5 kgf.m, 76 lbf.ft)
Take a picture, you are done! Ae is what mine looked like.
Above is a shot of the front Bolt, in place. Notice where the gold Muz Whiteline Cross Brace ends (same spot as X-braces and how the subframe brace is bolted to the same piece. The Cusco brace actually bolts to the bottom of the strut, the bolt beneath the whiteline. Either way, if you scroll up to the back bolts with red circles, you see that this is the start of the rear suspension. The subframe ties the front and rear suspension together, as far as I can see.
So I took it for a ride, and I definitely feel a BIG difference. Oddly, I actually feel like the back end is taller, I had to tip my seat back. The ride is definitely stiffer. I feel like I can kick the back end out more easily than I would like, but it is also much more controlled. I can see how this would be a big improvement on the track, I need a few days to see how I feel about it on the street. I think I will end up liking it though...
-JD
Since I couldn't find any directions in english, I had no way of knowing how to install this. Below is the list of steps I went through, only to document what I did. If you choose to use them as instructions, use them at your own discretion - I might have done it wrong.
Kit installs at 20lbs, and includes:
Left bar (8lbs)
Right bar (8lbs)
Cross Bar (4lbs)
2 bolts (.2lbs)
Useless directions (no pictures) in Japanese
Neato sticker
Wrapped
Unwrapped
Tools needed:
6mm Allen wrench (L shaped)
17mm socket
19mm socket
rachet
torque wrench
1) Lay out the two side bars with the left/right labels facing down; left is driver right is pssenger.
2) Lay out the cross bar between them with the hump pointing at the front of the car.
3) Using the 17mm socket and the 6mm Allen wrench, lightly bolt the cross bar, with the hex nuts facing up; it is easy to get the Allen wrench in there to tighten it right before you finish the front.
4) EBrake, 6th gear, and chock up the back wheels before jacking the front end WAY up. I used jackstands and had ramps lined up under the front tires just in case.
5) Using the 19mm socket, loosen the rear bolts (indicated by red circles above). Once loose, I was able to undo them by hand. They are fairly long, about 6", so it takes a while.
6) Pick up one bar at the back end, thread the bolt, and give it a few hand turns to anchor it but don't bolt it down yet. Be cautious, don't cross thread it! Pick up the other bar, do the same. Your install should look like this:
7) Using the 17mm socket, remove the front boltsas seen above. They are about 8" long, so they take an even longer while than the rear bolts. Once loosened, I was also able to remove these by hand.
8) Thread the front bolts through each side of the brace and loosely tighten them by hand.
9) Do your best to center the brace across all 4 bolts.
10) Tighten down the back bolts with the 19mm rachet until they are just snug, but do not apply torque. You will notice they rotate slightly as they snug up.
11) Tighten the front bolts until you have about an inch and a half of clearance as seen above.
12) Use the 6mm Allen wrench and 17mm rachet to tighten the bolts on the crossbar (not the ront bolts!). I don't know what the torque specs are on this, and I bolted them down pretty damn hard.
13) Tighten the front bolts down the rest of the way.
14) Torque the front and rear bolts to factory specs:
Front bolts: 59 N.m (6.0 kgf.m, 43 lbf.ft)
Rear Bolts: 103N.m (10.5 kgf.m, 76 lbf.ft)
Take a picture, you are done! Ae is what mine looked like.
Above is a shot of the front Bolt, in place. Notice where the gold Muz Whiteline Cross Brace ends (same spot as X-braces and how the subframe brace is bolted to the same piece. The Cusco brace actually bolts to the bottom of the strut, the bolt beneath the whiteline. Either way, if you scroll up to the back bolts with red circles, you see that this is the start of the rear suspension. The subframe ties the front and rear suspension together, as far as I can see.
So I took it for a ride, and I definitely feel a BIG difference. Oddly, I actually feel like the back end is taller, I had to tip my seat back. The ride is definitely stiffer. I feel like I can kick the back end out more easily than I would like, but it is also much more controlled. I can see how this would be a big improvement on the track, I need a few days to see how I feel about it on the street. I think I will end up liking it though...
-JD
07-29-2004, 08:54 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Torrance, CA 90509
Posts: 2,011
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Reflexx,Jul 29 2004, 07:50 AM
So, you are feeling a significant difference even after you already had the X-brace?
The X brace was different - right away I could tell what it fixed - but that was a matter of control on cornering. I think this one is a matter of control of the back end.
The X brace and the subframe do very different things, as far as I can tell. The X brace locks the bottom of the front suspension to the chassis. The subframe locks the back suspension to the front suspension.
thanks for the guide
Great write-up. Im going to install mine today
-JD
07-29-2004, 08:57 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Torrance, CA 90509
Posts: 2,011
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by meth,Jul 29 2004, 08:47 AM
does this improve stability in front or in rear? or both?
-JD
Trending Topics
07-29-2004, 09:49 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Torrance
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We have gone different routes... I just got my Koni's, will fit them next week. Maybe we can hook up and swap rides for a few twisties in PV?
My old complaint about your setup is the color clash!
Looking good!
My old complaint about your setup is the color clash!
Looking good!