Conventional or Synthetic? Thinking of downgrading...
04-21-2011, 10:37 AM
#51
ah gotcha. didn't mean to call you out or anything, just wanted to check 
04-21-2011, 10:44 AM
#52
Registered User
Originally Posted by Chris_Lum' timestamp='1303401435' post='20492389
here's my question that i'll pose to anyone reading. From the reading that i've done on the forums, there is a tiny percentage of owners that actually get their oil tested, so how do you all know when to change your synthetic oil? As proved in this thread, people change it from as little as 4-5k to as high as 10-15k. That's a huge spread. It seems the people that don't get their oil tested just change it when they feel comfortable, with no real scientific proof as to what mileage they really should change it at (and every car will have different intervals depending on the use of the car).
I'd be willing to bet I'm the only person who's replied that does UOA, except maybe Greg. Everything else is hearsay.
Are you on BITOG?
My last UOA. Has a combined 5 track days on it; in reality I was instructing and going out for a lot of ultra short sessions... 2-3 hot laps as opposed to a full ~10-15 lap session.
Anyway I just have to laugh someone claimed this to be their own..... What a fail.
04-21-2011, 10:50 AM
#53
Registered User
Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k' timestamp='1303312200' post='20487528
If been informed by employees of an oil company otherwise on switching. They've said never from synthetic back to conventional and generally say stay with one oil and even brand/type as best as possible. Switching from synthetic to conventional is a loose loose. It lasts longer and is healthier for your motor, end of story. The costs are nearly made up by the not having to get it change, I see no reason to make the switch. Small price to pay for your motor longevity.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...Motor_Oil.aspx
Question:What Will Happen Switching From Synthetic Motor Oil to Conventional Oil
I have been in the mechanic business for 8 years and was always taught that you cannot go back to conventional oil from synthetic oil. I have seen the damage caused by going back to conventional. Is it true that you can switch back to conventional with no damage to your engine?
-- Jimi Peranteu, Essington, PA
Answer:Synthetic oils will provide better protection than conventional oils, but switching back and forth between full synthetic and conventional oil will not damage the engine. Of course, this depends on the current engine condition and the quality of the conventional oil being used.
I have been in the mechanic business for 8 years and was always taught that you cannot go back to conventional oil from synthetic oil. I have seen the damage caused by going back to conventional. Is it true that you can switch back to conventional with no damage to your engine?
-- Jimi Peranteu, Essington, PA
Answer:Synthetic oils will provide better protection than conventional oils, but switching back and forth between full synthetic and conventional oil will not damage the engine. Of course, this depends on the current engine condition and the quality of the conventional oil being used.
Question: Is it ok to switch back and forth between regular and synthetic motor oil? I heard this causes leaks? Is this true?
Answer: Switching between synthetic and conventional oil does not cause problems. Because the oils are compatible, you can switch back and forth as often as you like.
Question: Can you mix different types of motor oil? For example, synthetic and synthetic blend or regular and synthetic? Is this going to cause problems?
Answer: Mixing synthetic and conventional oils will not cause any problems. The oils are compatible with each other.
Answer: Switching between synthetic and conventional oil does not cause problems. Because the oils are compatible, you can switch back and forth as often as you like.
Question: Can you mix different types of motor oil? For example, synthetic and synthetic blend or regular and synthetic? Is this going to cause problems?
Answer: Mixing synthetic and conventional oils will not cause any problems. The oils are compatible with each other.
Q: After a recent trip to two major auto parts dealers for oil (5W 30), I realized synthetic oil is slowly replacing nonsynthetic on the display shelves. The problem is, I'm getting conflicting information about synthetic oil. One store attendant told me I shouldn't go back to regular oil after changing to synthetic. Then he said it would be okay to add a quart of regular oil to synthetic, if I needed to top up. Another clerk said I should never mix the two. At a different store, the employee said it didn't matter if I used synthetic and then later replaced it with regular oil.
A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.
Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.
Read more: Motor Oil: Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic - Popular Mechanics
A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.
Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.
Read more: Motor Oil: Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic - Popular Mechanics
04-21-2011, 10:54 AM
#54
The actual claim was that I was trying to take credit for someone else's UOAs.
One person claimed my VOA was his, and then an admin found my UOAs being reposted on some asian site, and then proclaimed that I was trying to take some foreigner's UOAs and claiming them to be mine.
The worst part is that there's so little info on 300V that anyone who searches for 300V runs across that thread...
One person claimed my VOA was his, and then an admin found my UOAs being reposted on some asian site, and then proclaimed that I was trying to take some foreigner's UOAs and claiming them to be mine.
The worst part is that there's so little info on 300V that anyone who searches for 300V runs across that thread...
04-21-2011, 01:17 PM
#55
Thread Starter
Mobil 1 really isn't a synthetic so I'd rule their opinion out right away. As for the rest, reasonable enough. Still, why take a chance? I still don't see enough cause to make the switch to archaic oils of the past. The labor involved in having to change it twice as often is enough to make me stay with synthetics either way aside from the added protection don't you think? Also, as for seals leaking, don't tell anyone but a capful of brake fluid will stop seal leaks, it makes rubber swell up. Doesn't take much and works a long while for small slow leaks. I've yet to use the trick in my motor but I've used it in diffs and such for years and years. Before I had to do a major tear down I MIGHT just consider a little for a short period of time in the motor to cure a leak if it was labor intensive but a minor leak.
04-21-2011, 01:42 PM
#56
Registered User
On my truck and jeep I run 10k+ intervals and have done this for about 8 years now.
YAYYYYY for staying with synthetic. As for synthetic being better... I agree who is gonna run the motor till 300k? On the flip side, if you're on the track and a moment happens saying a corner where the oil pickup misses feed, for that few moments that the oil gets NO oil the residue left by the synethetic might keep it safe where the conventional might burn and toast the motor.
^ That's why for something I run hard I run synthetics only. That kind of moment would be critical for someone with a 00'-'02 S2k prior to the banjo bolt fix.
Just some food for thought.
YAYYYYY for staying with synthetic. As for synthetic being better... I agree who is gonna run the motor till 300k? On the flip side, if you're on the track and a moment happens saying a corner where the oil pickup misses feed, for that few moments that the oil gets NO oil the residue left by the synethetic might keep it safe where the conventional might burn and toast the motor.
^ That's why for something I run hard I run synthetics only. That kind of moment would be critical for someone with a 00'-'02 S2k prior to the banjo bolt fix.
Just some food for thought.
04-21-2011, 01:46 PM
#57
On my truck and jeep I run 10k+ intervals and have done this for about 8 years now.
YAYYYYY for staying with synthetic. As for synthetic being better... I agree who is gonna run the motor till 300k? On the flip side, if you're on the track and a moment happens saying a corner where the oil pickup misses feed, for that few moments that the oil gets NO oil the residue left by the synethetic might keep it safe where the conventional might burn and toast the motor.
^ That's why for something I run hard I run synthetics only. That kind of moment would be critical for someone with a 00'-'02 S2k prior to the banjo bolt fix.
Just some food for thought.
YAYYYYY for staying with synthetic. As for synthetic being better... I agree who is gonna run the motor till 300k? On the flip side, if you're on the track and a moment happens saying a corner where the oil pickup misses feed, for that few moments that the oil gets NO oil the residue left by the synethetic might keep it safe where the conventional might burn and toast the motor.
^ That's why for something I run hard I run synthetics only. That kind of moment would be critical for someone with a 00'-'02 S2k prior to the banjo bolt fix.
Just some food for thought.
I was running ACS nearly 2 qts low, and was hitting power cut in turns 1/2. I thought it was low gas, but it turns out my VTEC was cutting out. UOA (as you can see above) shows that the engine was still protected. This is a 125-130MPH turn that is taken at redline in 5th, and sustained for roughly 8-10 seconds.
04-21-2011, 01:49 PM
#58
Thread Starter
yeah i think there would be no question if i tracked the car, but a lot of people who debate the topic do so because the car is a daily driver and will never see the rigors of the track.
04-21-2011, 01:56 PM
#59
If you do your own oil changes, a $10 jug of regular from Walmart would probably be most cost effective per mile driven.
If you do VTEC on occasion and go for spirited drives, a longer OCI with a decent synthetic is probably the best compromise. No need to spend ridiculous amounts on the top grade stuff.
If you do VTEC on occasion and go for spirited drives, a longer OCI with a decent synthetic is probably the best compromise. No need to spend ridiculous amounts on the top grade stuff.
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