lab's and s2000 are NOT compatible
need a yard
needs exercise every day, do not crate all day alone

 

consider adopting

usually with these kind of sales of dogs with no papers, there is no warranty if the dog gets sick or anything. its like an "as-is" sale.

make sure you are not physically taking home your puppy at 1 month. the minimum is 3. but you said you were picking one, so im assuming you are simply reserving.

keep in mind, labs are notoriously known for hip dysplasia. so know your facts, myths, and costs of treatment for it. the worse thing you can do to yourself and the dog is taking him home not being able to afford it.

heres some info on HD
http://www.peteducation.com/article....2+2084&aid=444

another thing that many owners regret not doing is taking LOTS of pictures when they are puppies. 3 months is going to go by fast. you are lucky to be able to see your pup at 1 month. so take lots of pictures.

be prepared for lots of frustrations and rewards. and puppy breath. the biggest problem that most owners will run into is a lack of patience and understanding. teaching a trick or command to a dog is not as easy as simply saying "sit."

lastly, i honestly dont think you can pick out a TRUE alpha male out of the litter just yet. at 1 month the puppies personalities dont show quite yet. at about 2-3 months is when they start to grow their own unique personalities.

so dont set your heart on one specific one just yet
trust me, my dog was the last one to get picked and he was hands down the best.

i miss him dearly.

 

Take the advice a 8 time WORLD CHAMPION and 18 time NATIONAL champion working dog trainer gives. Mind you his top dog is selling for $85,000 dollars. This is for working breeds not SHOW dogs, I personally could care less about looks, or rather it a far second place to function.

Just pick the one that looks the best. (surprising to hear?)

There are so many tests I can do to choose the "alpha" dog such as putting them on their back, seeing if they roll towards you or away or stay neutral. Also putting a sheet infront of them and making them run through it. See which one will go to meet new people first or go to a new toy first etc etc etc. *read 2nd to the last bit of the post on why you should just choose the best Looking one*

HERE IS THE MAJOR PROBLEM WITH YOUR SITUATION.....

You bred two dogs w/ papers.... that could be far worse then two dogs without BECAUSE you don't know the actual rating system nor what their ratings would be.

**EXAMPLE**

Say you have a 103% on the rear triangulation angle, that seems great right? So you figure you breed another 105% dog and you figure WOW the dog will be fantastic and have great hips! WRONG WRONG WRONG, instead you'll have a dog that has too much and he will take awkward steps andbe a slow runner perhaps even problematic. Second example wouldbe underbite/overbite. You want to breed two dogs that match well, a 95 and a 102 for example nets a good jaw structure you score in the upper 90's there.

This is why in places like germany each dog is critiqued in so many areas to find BALANCE!!!!!!!!! This goes for mental tests too not just physical.

So the fact that nobody did this properly and it was an amateur breed means the whole litter is worthless to the upper class of dog owners. HOWEVER it's not to say you couldn't grab a great pup, it's just that there is a very very high chance that something is far from what it should be.

If you'd like more information you can PM or even call me and I'll help you to pick the best of the litter, you have to know WHAT you want in a dog to be able to do this though. Is this a working dog? a house pet? You don't want a working alpha dog to be around the kids and family as a pet, makes no sense. Generally speaking the people who say "oh my dog doesn't do this or that, my dog is stupid" are actually stupid themselves. I can usually have a "dumb" dog heeling and coming to my call in 30-60minutes at least to huge improvement. It all comes down to consistency and straight forward thinking.

Now as for why to pick the best LOOKING dog even in a working breed. I say that because if the breeding is done right, the differences between them is so close it doesn't matter which one you choose much actually. In fact you're rolling the dice so much so that the only thing 100% is the way the dog LOOKS. Puppies change too much to really be able to predict the alpha dog and the truth is alpha dogs are RAISED not BORN. At least that is to say if the breed is top notch any of them will be considered "alpha". Independent confident dogs are a result of their handlers and proper breeding, it's not that there was only one in the litter that was chosen right. Your great looking dog can = expensive pups if you breed and even maybe a title as a show dog if it isn't a working dog. The dog will pick up majority of it's habbits from YOU the owner.

Males are generally cheaper to keep. That's something to consider here. SO WHAT DO YOU WANT OUT OF THIS DOG???? That's the big question. From there we can help you accurately choose the dog that has the highest probability of being what you want. Generally speaking breeders of common dogs in America are MORONS, they've not the slightest idea of what they're doing. There is a reason that all the police K-9's come from Germany etc. It's not a coincidence. So don't put much faith in any vet or breeder here discussing good blood lines. We don't even have a actual way to judge most the things that should be judged.

 

I can have a pup at 8 weeks old within 2 weeks mostly potty trained and already aware of "sit" "off" "no" "stay".

I had my dog ringing a bell to go potty at the front door by 10 weeks or so after getting her at 8 weeks.

I suggest you crate train the dog for best and quickest results. Though I didn't.

It's all about structure and understanding dog psychology. Think like a pack animal would, don't let your emotion over take by feeling bad and going soft or by punishing out of anger. Be robotic about it.

 

 

^ Wow!

 

^ nice bert.

Greg you ever think about being a dog trainer?

 

^ I'm a handler thus far not a trainer. I've considered it though my skills for competition aren't there. My obedience understanding is far better then petco that's for sure. LOL

I'd consider it for friends etc. Maybe $25 dollars for an hour of class time or something like that.

 

I might hit u up sometime. ^

 

Happy to help.