What are you lowered on?
#11
I'm running T1R B-Max 52 and it feels pretty similar to the KW V3 on even road pavements such as freeway, but when it comes to driving in the city SF, Great Highway Ocean Beach, it gets rough and hard due to potholes, rail tracks, uneven surfaces etc...it gets quite bumpy. For a little more, I'd get the KW V3, it's a lot smoother and comfortable and handling on the turns is pretty smooth and tight. I actually wanted to sell my T1R B-Max 52 for KW V3 but looks like I'm not spending anymore money on my s2000. Get KW V3's, comfort + performance!
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm..._Code=T1R_BMAX
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm..._Code=T1R_BMAX
#12
Former Moderator
For a thousand bucks you're really limited, I would try and save up a bit more for either PSS9's for more street and KW's for more track. You can track and street both.
#13
Im running PSS9's....good quality,well made...I use them for track and street and I think they are a good compromise. With the condition of the roads around here I dont think I would want to go for much of a harder ride.
I hit a pot hole the other day that was so big it had its own zip code....almost tore my wheels off.
I hit a pot hole the other day that was so big it had its own zip code....almost tore my wheels off.
#14
I just have an Eibach pro Kit on stock shocks for right now. I do plan on getting some track time in but being in the beginner out there these will suit me just fine, at least until I progress. If I were you I would just pick up the PSS9's due to they're durability. They were recommended to me time and time again but I knew I would wanna track the car so I opted to just wait and save for a nice coilover.
Anything less than $1k and you're looking at Megan, Function Form, or Ksports... They seem to be the laughing stock of coilovers among s2k owners and I'm sure its for a reason.
Anything less than $1k and you're looking at Megan, Function Form, or Ksports... They seem to be the laughing stock of coilovers among s2k owners and I'm sure its for a reason.
#15
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Professor Touge Emeritus
Posts: 8,570
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
I went from 120,000 mile bone stock AP2 suspension to full CR suspension (springs/sways/shocks), and a whiteline x-brace and Gladman front STB. For a mountain carver, I love it. Most of my non-s2k (and some s2k) friends complain about the rough roads, bottoming out, scraping, rubbing, etc. I rarely bottom out unless I am doing something extravagant (e.g., trying to get airborne, or diving into a dip I know I shouldn't).
I say go OEM CR, because...I did. But I'm a purist, and wanted the car to handle a little better than stock, without the compromises that come with a lowered car, as listed above. I think you just have to figure out your philosophy, your budget, your driving style, and your selection of road warrior roads you are willing to tolerate.
I say go OEM CR, because...I did. But I'm a purist, and wanted the car to handle a little better than stock, without the compromises that come with a lowered car, as listed above. I think you just have to figure out your philosophy, your budget, your driving style, and your selection of road warrior roads you are willing to tolerate.
#16
When I bought the car (it's a 2001), it had Koni Yellows and Tein S.Tech springs installed. It also had 18" wheels with the wrong offset (18x7.5 +47 and 18x8 +43), so the combination rubbed horribly. I replaced the springs with CR springs which are longer and I believe more linear (S.Techs are progressive). I was hoping this would be enough to fix the rubbing, but it wasn't enough. I had to roll the fenders and relocate the bumper tab. One of these days, I'll become a member and sell the S.Techs.
Back to the suspension... The Konis have two perches for mounting the springs and I have them on the highest perch. Ride height is about 14" from wheel center to top of wheel arch (right side is lower for some reason...) The lower perch will drop you about another 3/8". I dunno how that compares to stock...
The Konis are adjustable, but the rears are a pain to adjust because the adjustment point is at the top of the shock in the trunk and hard to access (fronts are super easy).
I have the shocks on the firmest setting and it's a rather firm ride (my wife hates it), but I like it. It's not my DD, though. Other than one time testing for rubbing, I've not tried adjusting them to compare the ride, so I can't comment on the ride with them on soft. Maybe soon, though...
CR spring rates are 384 lb/in Front and 343 Rear per this article.
S.Tech spring rates are 296/363.
If I'd have done the suspension upgrade myself, I'm sure I would have gone with coilovers, but I can't say that I'm unhappy with what I've got, and I think you could do this setup for around $1K, DIY.
My primary reason for buying this car was to track it, but it's by no means a dedicated track car, and I doubt it ever will be. I'm hoping for maybe 6 track days a year to start. I love just driving it around town in the evenings and weekends and I usually drive it to work once a week or so. In my 2 track days, I found the tires (and driver) to be the most limiting factors, not the suspension.
Are you going to DIY it, or have someone do the install?
Back to the suspension... The Konis have two perches for mounting the springs and I have them on the highest perch. Ride height is about 14" from wheel center to top of wheel arch (right side is lower for some reason...) The lower perch will drop you about another 3/8". I dunno how that compares to stock...
The Konis are adjustable, but the rears are a pain to adjust because the adjustment point is at the top of the shock in the trunk and hard to access (fronts are super easy).
I have the shocks on the firmest setting and it's a rather firm ride (my wife hates it), but I like it. It's not my DD, though. Other than one time testing for rubbing, I've not tried adjusting them to compare the ride, so I can't comment on the ride with them on soft. Maybe soon, though...
CR spring rates are 384 lb/in Front and 343 Rear per this article.
S.Tech spring rates are 296/363.
If I'd have done the suspension upgrade myself, I'm sure I would have gone with coilovers, but I can't say that I'm unhappy with what I've got, and I think you could do this setup for around $1K, DIY.
My primary reason for buying this car was to track it, but it's by no means a dedicated track car, and I doubt it ever will be. I'm hoping for maybe 6 track days a year to start. I love just driving it around town in the evenings and weekends and I usually drive it to work once a week or so. In my 2 track days, I found the tires (and driver) to be the most limiting factors, not the suspension.
Are you going to DIY it, or have someone do the install?
#17
I went from 120,000 mile bone stock AP2 suspension to full CR suspension (springs/sways/shocks), and a whiteline x-brace and Gladman front STB. For a mountain carver, I love it. Most of my non-s2k (and some s2k) friends complain about the rough roads, bottoming out, scraping, rubbing, etc. I rarely bottom out unless I am doing something extravagant (e.g., trying to get airborne, or diving into a dip I know I shouldn't).
I say go OEM CR, because...I did. But I'm a purist, and wanted the car to handle a little better than stock, without the compromises that come with a lowered car, as listed above. I think you just have to figure out your philosophy, your budget, your driving style, and your selection of road warrior roads you are willing to tolerate.
I say go OEM CR, because...I did. But I'm a purist, and wanted the car to handle a little better than stock, without the compromises that come with a lowered car, as listed above. I think you just have to figure out your philosophy, your budget, your driving style, and your selection of road warrior roads you are willing to tolerate.
#18
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Professor Touge Emeritus
Posts: 8,570
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally Posted by eklipz98' timestamp='1333427557' post='21569877
I went from 120,000 mile bone stock AP2 suspension to full CR suspension (springs/sways/shocks), and a whiteline x-brace and Gladman front STB. For a mountain carver, I love it. Most of my non-s2k (and some s2k) friends complain about the rough roads, bottoming out, scraping, rubbing, etc. I rarely bottom out unless I am doing something extravagant (e.g., trying to get airborne, or diving into a dip I know I shouldn't).
I say go OEM CR, because...I did. But I'm a purist, and wanted the car to handle a little better than stock, without the compromises that come with a lowered car, as listed above. I think you just have to figure out your philosophy, your budget, your driving style, and your selection of road warrior roads you are willing to tolerate.
I say go OEM CR, because...I did. But I'm a purist, and wanted the car to handle a little better than stock, without the compromises that come with a lowered car, as listed above. I think you just have to figure out your philosophy, your budget, your driving style, and your selection of road warrior roads you are willing to tolerate.
#19
What about ground controls + koni yellows? How much would that run these days - might be in the ballpark? You can even upgrade later on to the ground control top hats for extra stroke.