DaPhatty

So wait, Amsoil is baller status? Where's my baller badge!

MMabie

So I did a complete oil change and reset the ECU today, maybe improvement but still not at what it should be in accordance with my memory. I'm beginning to think it is the VTEC Solenoid. I took it to my mechanic today, but to be frank he doesn't know shit about performance vehicles. When I told him power wasn't kicking it past six he promptly told me that he does not know how I even get the revs up that high and I should never go above five. To add to this he told me VTEC kicked in at 3000 rpm...lol. It has been a rough beginning ownership so far with the replacing of the slave cylinder and two engine mounts, CEL due to an old gas cap and this weekend a guy backed up in to my car and now the front bumper, headlight, and fender need to be replaced. If the car didn't handle so well I would be beside myself with all these problems in a four month span. So if anyone can tell me how to take of the VTEC Solenoid and clean it that would be great. Thanks.

tkeyyy

me too!

well only way to find out, is to drive/ride in another s right?
keep your head up. just because all these bads happened at once, doesn't mean there won't be any good in the future

TougeHorseman

Kalibos

Dude,

The VTEC solenoid is not hard to troubleshoot. All you need is basic mechanic tools (ratchet and a socket) and a multimeter. First you need to take a ohm/resistance reading from the connector to the housing. It should read 14-30 ohms. 2nd, you need to remove the whole VTEC assembly and check the VTEC filter. There is a chance you might have sucked up some sludge and it's clogged up. Be gentle with it, its more of a fine screen and you can easily bend it. I personally would just buy a new filter/screen if its all clogged up. I think they are cheap. Lastly, you need to remove the solenoid from the base and ensure the internal pin/valve is moving freely by gently pushing down on it. It should feel springy. if all checks well, then it's not your VTEC solenoid assembly. You could also run a positive from the battery straight to the solenoid to make sure it works. Should hear a faint "click" or feel something when you put 12v positive to the solenoid. After all of that and you still don't find anything and still think you have a VTEC problem, then you need to see if the solenoid is getting the 12v signal from the ECM and more importantly, check the oil pressures. If your in the Dublin area or close by, I'll be more than happy to help you out or you can always take the car to Joey's or Blactrax.




v/r
James

rob-2

And if you're just regularly driving the car it's not that bad. If you get on the car, the heat created breaks down the m1 to something closer to a 5w20.

FromaDB2toanAP1

Well, you can get a 5 qt jug of Pennzoil platinum for $22.50 ($4.50 per quart) at Walmart. Doesn't Amsoil cost $10 a quart? Is it that much better for a daily driven vehicle? Most people change their oil before 10,000 miles already. Is it really cost effective?

tkeyyy

how i see it for oil is that it's reliable. i went from amsoil, to mobil 1, then back to amsoil. reason being is because mobil 1 burned much faster and i had to get my oil changed at 3k, instead of the usual 5k with amsoil. this is with oem filter at the time btw so that's ruled out.

it also consists of driving my car how it's supposed to be driven: daily and a couple fun twisties and hitting vtec.