valve adjustment
03-11-2010, 10:32 AM
#22
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it's an 04 m3. here's the thread i was looking at...
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=113415
i have everything except the shim tool and shims
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=113415
i have everything except the shim tool and shims
03-11-2010, 10:44 AM
#25
Originally Posted by jenn_bat,Mar 11 2010, 11:39 AM
not for a regular bmw. it's just the m that's crazy expensive. lol
well the 5 is a decent chunk of change to maintain.. M is always like 2.5x the cost of maintaining a non-M car.
regular 3 series should be relatively cheap. Lots of indy shops work on 3 too.
03-11-2010, 12:06 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by danvuquoc,Mar 11 2010, 11:38 AM
Sounds like I'm gonna rethink buying a used BMW as a daily driver. This shit sounds way too expensive to maintain.
03-11-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by itS2Krazy,Mar 11 2010, 01:23 AM
i usually do mine every 15k. i think brians2000 mentioned somewhere that most s2k's should get it done around then. but i could be wrong.
Joey how much for a valve adjustment? I just broke 15k recently
03-13-2010, 04:28 PM
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Just so everyone's on the same page we're talking about
valve lash adjustment.
I've lashed about 4 K-series heads in the last 2 months due to cam swaps and exchanging motors with a friend for my RSX partout, and the s2k uses an almost identical roller rocker valvetrain. The lash specs posted earlier are great as i typically lash .008 intake and .010 exhaust on a cold motor.
Anyone looking to DIY this would only need a set of feeler gauges which are cheap (<10$ for a set at the local hardware/automotive store) along with basic metric sockets, 10/12/14mm etc.
Feeler gauge:
Simply remove the valve cover, set the crank to TDC and begin adjust the valves that are not being pushed open by the cam lobes, usually 2-3 pairs will be fully closed and ready to lash.
You adjust the lash by sliding in the feeler gauge to measure the gap between the rocker and valve head. You should feel a slight drag on the feeler as you slide it between the two parts. If the gap is too tight or too loose simply crack the jam nut loose, tighten or loosen the screw, then snug up the jam nut again.
Pic worth 1k words:
Then turn the crank 90 degrees, and lash whichever valves are now fully closed, turn the crank another 90 degrees and repeat, until all 8 pairs of valves are lashed. Torque the jam nuts on each roller rocker to OEM spec which is something low like 10in-lbs (<--- VERIFY THIS with HELMS) And your all done. Slap the valve cover back on and your good to go.
Typical a very quiet valvetrain is a sign of a well lashed motor. But you can lash a motor too tight which would cause unnecessary stress on the valvetrain and possibly restrict the valves from fully closing when the motor is hot.
If you're not comfortable with simple things such as removing the valvecover, or are afraid of "messing anything up" take it to someone who knows what they're doing.
valve lash adjustment.
I've lashed about 4 K-series heads in the last 2 months due to cam swaps and exchanging motors with a friend for my RSX partout, and the s2k uses an almost identical roller rocker valvetrain. The lash specs posted earlier are great as i typically lash .008 intake and .010 exhaust on a cold motor.
Anyone looking to DIY this would only need a set of feeler gauges which are cheap (<10$ for a set at the local hardware/automotive store) along with basic metric sockets, 10/12/14mm etc.
Feeler gauge:
Simply remove the valve cover, set the crank to TDC and begin adjust the valves that are not being pushed open by the cam lobes, usually 2-3 pairs will be fully closed and ready to lash.
You adjust the lash by sliding in the feeler gauge to measure the gap between the rocker and valve head. You should feel a slight drag on the feeler as you slide it between the two parts. If the gap is too tight or too loose simply crack the jam nut loose, tighten or loosen the screw, then snug up the jam nut again.
Pic worth 1k words:
Then turn the crank 90 degrees, and lash whichever valves are now fully closed, turn the crank another 90 degrees and repeat, until all 8 pairs of valves are lashed. Torque the jam nuts on each roller rocker to OEM spec which is something low like 10in-lbs (<--- VERIFY THIS with HELMS) And your all done. Slap the valve cover back on and your good to go.
Typical a very quiet valvetrain is a sign of a well lashed motor. But you can lash a motor too tight which would cause unnecessary stress on the valvetrain and possibly restrict the valves from fully closing when the motor is hot.
If you're not comfortable with simple things such as removing the valvecover, or are afraid of "messing anything up" take it to someone who knows what they're doing.