Subwoofer not working (who can help me?) (where can i go?)
#11
I'll chime in on city car audio. I paid $330 for a $100 alarm and proximity sensor and install. I didn't like that they ran another wire to actuator for the trunk release and charged me for it when they could of wired to the oem setup.
#14
I don't have any shop recommendations, but here are some ideas.
Not sure what your speaker setup looks like but I would assume something like this:
Head unit goes to two amplifiers, one amp goes to speakers, the other goes to sub.
Inputs to the sub amp are RCA, power, ground, and remote. Outputs from the amp to the sub are just speaker wire.
If I were doing it myself, here's the first things I would check:
Check the ground on the amp. It's easy to look on the amp and sounds like you've done that already. Otherwise check the other end where it is grounded to the car. That one would usually have been my problem. If you paid for installation then you may not know where it is. Although often if that end making a loose connection, then you'll usually hear it cut in and out, and you said it happened suddenly so this may not be your issue. The last easy thing to check is the fuse in your amp. Just pull it out and see if it's blown.
If you have a multimeter then it cuts down on the work you have to do because you can just check the beginning and end of your power/ground connections. Ground seems to always have been the problem when I did my own stereo equipment which is why I suggest it.
Not sure what your speaker setup looks like but I would assume something like this:
Head unit goes to two amplifiers, one amp goes to speakers, the other goes to sub.
Inputs to the sub amp are RCA, power, ground, and remote. Outputs from the amp to the sub are just speaker wire.
If I were doing it myself, here's the first things I would check:
Check the ground on the amp. It's easy to look on the amp and sounds like you've done that already. Otherwise check the other end where it is grounded to the car. That one would usually have been my problem. If you paid for installation then you may not know where it is. Although often if that end making a loose connection, then you'll usually hear it cut in and out, and you said it happened suddenly so this may not be your issue. The last easy thing to check is the fuse in your amp. Just pull it out and see if it's blown.
If you have a multimeter then it cuts down on the work you have to do because you can just check the beginning and end of your power/ground connections. Ground seems to always have been the problem when I did my own stereo equipment which is why I suggest it.
#15
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If your close to dublin I can easily help you out. MAybe I can help you out online or over the phone. Answer these questions if you can please.
What is your set up?
Is your head unit coming on?
Does your highs work?
Is your amp turning on?
If the amp is not turning on when the head unit is on, check voltage with a Multimeter across your - and +. Should read 12-14.5 VDC. then check voltage from your remote terminal to ground with the multimeter. Record readings.
Lastly, take a resistance (Ohms/Horseshoe looking icon) reading across the coils on your speaker. what are you reading? Should be somewhere between 2-8 ohms depending on your set up.
Those are some simple checks that will tell you a lot as to where the problem is. You can always swing by the house and I can help you out and teach ya a few things if you need.
v/r
James
What is your set up?
Is your head unit coming on?
Does your highs work?
Is your amp turning on?
If the amp is not turning on when the head unit is on, check voltage with a Multimeter across your - and +. Should read 12-14.5 VDC. then check voltage from your remote terminal to ground with the multimeter. Record readings.
Lastly, take a resistance (Ohms/Horseshoe looking icon) reading across the coils on your speaker. what are you reading? Should be somewhere between 2-8 ohms depending on your set up.
Those are some simple checks that will tell you a lot as to where the problem is. You can always swing by the house and I can help you out and teach ya a few things if you need.
v/r
James
#16
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Not sure what Baron is talking about, because I'm slow as molasses.
You should come with Baron to our Friday night drives, and you can see how slow I am.
I don't have any shop recommendations, but here are some ideas.Not sure what your speaker setup looks like but I would assume something like this:Head unit goes to two amplifiers, one amp goes to speakers, the other goes to sub.Inputs to the sub amp are RCA, power, ground, and remote. Outputs from the amp to the sub are just speaker wire.If I were doing it myself, here's the first things I would check:Check the ground on the amp. It's easy to look on the amp and sounds like you've done that already. Otherwise check the other end where it is grounded to the car. That one would usually have been my problem. If you paid for installation then you may not know where it is. Although often if that end making a loose connection, then you'll usually hear it cut in and out, and you said it happened suddenly so this may not be your issue. The last easy thing to check is the fuse in your amp. Just pull it out and see if it's blown.If you have a multimeter then it cuts down on the work you have to do because you can just check the beginning and end of your power/ground connections. Ground seems to always have been the problem when I did my own stereo equipment which is why I suggest it.
- Alpine CDA 105 Headunit
- PAC Steering Wheel Remote Control Kit for DCI
- Focal Polyglass 165 VR 6.5-inch 2-way Component Speaker Kit
- Dynamat Sound deadening (door kit, trunk lid, amplifier rack)
- 12" Infinity Perfect Kappa Subwoofer (a 12-year old woofer!)
- Precision Power PCX 480 Amplifier (a 12-year old amp!)
- Rockford Fosgate 20VDC Digital Display 1 Fared Capacitor (a 12-year old cap!)
- Custom subwoofer box fit within trunkwell with Honda toolkit delete
- Custom mounted JL Audio 12" subwoofer grille
- Custom carpeted amplifier rack
- Custom wired usb/ipod connector to glovebox
- PAC Steering Wheel Remote Control Kit for DCI
- Focal Polyglass 165 VR 6.5-inch 2-way Component Speaker Kit
- Dynamat Sound deadening (door kit, trunk lid, amplifier rack)
- 12" Infinity Perfect Kappa Subwoofer (a 12-year old woofer!)
- Precision Power PCX 480 Amplifier (a 12-year old amp!)
- Rockford Fosgate 20VDC Digital Display 1 Fared Capacitor (a 12-year old cap!)
- Custom subwoofer box fit within trunkwell with Honda toolkit delete
- Custom mounted JL Audio 12" subwoofer grille
- Custom carpeted amplifier rack
- Custom wired usb/ipod connector to glovebox
I'm not sure if I have two grounds on my amp? I noticed that one wire was completely severed in the past (it has since been repaired). This was determined to be the ground wire. I did check that same wire this time around, and it appear intact, and securely mounted to the appropriate ground spot. I do not remember if my symptoms in the past were the entire system cutting out, or just the subwoofer cutting out.
I was not aware that my amplifier had it's own fuse. Would it be possible that a blown amp fuse would cause the sub to go out, and the speakers to work just fine? Currently, my speakers are head unit are all functioning normally.
I don't have a meter, but I have friends who own them, and could experiment with that to see where the power is and isnt.
If your close to dublin I can easily help you out. MAybe I can help you out online or over the phone. Answer these questions if you can please.What is your set up? Is your head unit coming on?Does your highs work?Is your amp turning on?If the amp is not turning on when the head unit is on, check voltage with a Multimeter across your - and +. Should read 12-14.5 VDC. then check voltage from your remote terminal to ground with the multimeter. Record readings.Lastly, take a resistance (Ohms/Horseshoe looking icon) reading across the coils on your speaker. what are you reading? Should be somewhere between 2-8 ohms depending on your set up. Those are some simple checks that will tell you a lot as to where the problem is. You can always swing by the house and I can help you out and teach ya a few things if you need.v/rJames
I listed my set up in the above post, for ease of reading.
My head unit is coming on.
I'm not sure how to tell if my amp is coming on, but I'm going to assume it is, because the door speakers are playing fine?
My capacitor is coming on, and its reading the usual range of numbers when the car is on/off.
Maybe I can meet you sometime soon and we can go over the Multimeter readings, since I don't have one.
#18
Anyway, that's off-topic. Casey just wants someone to get his awesome sound system back. I'd be sad if my car audio was out. No fun!
#19
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Being that you only run amp to run both your highs and lows, and your highs are running just fine, then that eliminates the possibility of your Amp not turning on for some reason. That just leaves just a few things that can be bad or wrong.
1. Bad sub woofer. We would have to check the resistance on the coils to confirm.
2. Loose connection between your Amp and your sub woofer. This could be easy to fix assuming access to the wire run is easy. Idk how much custom work you have had done in the car and whats needed to gain access to the wiring.
3. Blow fuse on the amp. Most amps have individual fuses per channel on the amp. You could have simply blown a fuse which happens if your running it hard or you have a short/ground somewhere causing the fuse to blow.
4. Lastly, you have a blown channel on your amp in which case you would have to replace/repair some solid state component in the amp. If that's the case, it would just be better to replace the amp itself.
Check the settings on the amp. make sure you didn't mistakenly turn off that channel or something along those lines.
v/r
James
1. Bad sub woofer. We would have to check the resistance on the coils to confirm.
2. Loose connection between your Amp and your sub woofer. This could be easy to fix assuming access to the wire run is easy. Idk how much custom work you have had done in the car and whats needed to gain access to the wiring.
3. Blow fuse on the amp. Most amps have individual fuses per channel on the amp. You could have simply blown a fuse which happens if your running it hard or you have a short/ground somewhere causing the fuse to blow.
4. Lastly, you have a blown channel on your amp in which case you would have to replace/repair some solid state component in the amp. If that's the case, it would just be better to replace the amp itself.
Check the settings on the amp. make sure you didn't mistakenly turn off that channel or something along those lines.
v/r
James
#20
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Being that you only run amp to run both your highs and lows, and your highs are running just fine, then that eliminates the possibility of your Amp not turning on for some reason. That just leaves just a few things that can be bad or wrong.
1. Bad sub woofer. We would have to check the resistance on the coils to confirm.
2. Loose connection between your Amp and your sub woofer. This could be easy to fix assuming access to the wire run is easy. Idk how much custom work you have had done in the car and whats needed to gain access to the wiring.
3. Blow fuse on the amp. Most amps have individual fuses per channel on the amp. You could have simply blown a fuse which happens if your running it hard or you have a short/ground somewhere causing the fuse to blow.
4. Lastly, you have a blown channel on your amp in which case you would have to replace/repair some solid state component in the amp. If that's the case, it would just be better to replace the amp itself.
Check the settings on the amp. make sure you didn't mistakenly turn off that channel or something along those lines.
v/r
James
1. Bad sub woofer. We would have to check the resistance on the coils to confirm.
2. Loose connection between your Amp and your sub woofer. This could be easy to fix assuming access to the wire run is easy. Idk how much custom work you have had done in the car and whats needed to gain access to the wiring.
3. Blow fuse on the amp. Most amps have individual fuses per channel on the amp. You could have simply blown a fuse which happens if your running it hard or you have a short/ground somewhere causing the fuse to blow.
4. Lastly, you have a blown channel on your amp in which case you would have to replace/repair some solid state component in the amp. If that's the case, it would just be better to replace the amp itself.
Check the settings on the amp. make sure you didn't mistakenly turn off that channel or something along those lines.
v/r
James
1. Loose or bad RCA connection from the head unit to the amp
2. Bad channel from the head unit.
this is fairly easy to figure out as well.