Sound Proofing
#1
Sound Proofing
So over this 4 day weekend I decided to do some sound proofing on the S.
I purchased fat mat from Amazon 25sq ft for about 80 bucks. I also got some boom mat spray for the seams and hard to reach places.
I first started out with the trunk since it was the easiest to disassemble.
As far as tools I need a 10mm socket to take out the 6 disc cd changer and one Phillips screw. The rest are plastic clips. I do recommended buying extra clips(I broke about 4 just in the trunk alone).
Vacuumed everything out and took some 409 and steel wool to the metal(super fine) just go get any old dirt or residue since the car is 14 years old. I started with the top. I did the two sides first then the long strip in the back. Used some cardboard to make a template. My cuts aren't exact but close enough to the shape of the corners.
I then proceeded to do the "bowl" of the trunk where the jack and tools sit. I did three pieces about the same size for the bottom and sides and three long strips for the back peice. Used the roller to press the mat down. Let it all set for about an hour then sprayed seams and corners with the boom mat. Used three coats with about 5-10 minutes of dry time between each coat. Let everything sit over night before putting the carpet back in.
Then proceeded to do the interior. I did the doors and floor pan as well as the tunnel.
I first took out the seats which the front bolts used a 12mm and the rear used a 14mm. Next to come out was the seat belt bolt which is also a 14mm. The next to come off was all the plastics from the front kick panel which is just plastic lips holding it in. The next is the running board panel also clips. The back peice most towards the seats has 1 small Phillips screw and plastic clips. The carpet is held in by plastic clips. I broke some of those too so definitely get extra clips.
I did one larger piece for the pan then smaller pieces to fill in the corners and hard to reach spots followed up with boom mat for the edges and seams
Next up was the doors. 3 Phillips screw hold the panels on. Two in the handle to pull the door closed. The other behind the door handle to open the door. Pull towards you then push up to take the panel off. I decided to put pieces on the actual panel it's self
Tried to cover as much as i could in as large of pieces as I could.
Overall I am extremely happy with the end result. When it would come down from 7-8k it would vibrate through the car. That is completely gone. It also eliminated most of the drone and road noise. Definitely worth the 100 or so bucks and maybe 4-5 hours of time.
I purchased fat mat from Amazon 25sq ft for about 80 bucks. I also got some boom mat spray for the seams and hard to reach places.
I first started out with the trunk since it was the easiest to disassemble.
As far as tools I need a 10mm socket to take out the 6 disc cd changer and one Phillips screw. The rest are plastic clips. I do recommended buying extra clips(I broke about 4 just in the trunk alone).
Vacuumed everything out and took some 409 and steel wool to the metal(super fine) just go get any old dirt or residue since the car is 14 years old. I started with the top. I did the two sides first then the long strip in the back. Used some cardboard to make a template. My cuts aren't exact but close enough to the shape of the corners.
I then proceeded to do the "bowl" of the trunk where the jack and tools sit. I did three pieces about the same size for the bottom and sides and three long strips for the back peice. Used the roller to press the mat down. Let it all set for about an hour then sprayed seams and corners with the boom mat. Used three coats with about 5-10 minutes of dry time between each coat. Let everything sit over night before putting the carpet back in.
Then proceeded to do the interior. I did the doors and floor pan as well as the tunnel.
I first took out the seats which the front bolts used a 12mm and the rear used a 14mm. Next to come out was the seat belt bolt which is also a 14mm. The next to come off was all the plastics from the front kick panel which is just plastic lips holding it in. The next is the running board panel also clips. The back peice most towards the seats has 1 small Phillips screw and plastic clips. The carpet is held in by plastic clips. I broke some of those too so definitely get extra clips.
I did one larger piece for the pan then smaller pieces to fill in the corners and hard to reach spots followed up with boom mat for the edges and seams
Next up was the doors. 3 Phillips screw hold the panels on. Two in the handle to pull the door closed. The other behind the door handle to open the door. Pull towards you then push up to take the panel off. I decided to put pieces on the actual panel it's self
Tried to cover as much as i could in as large of pieces as I could.
Overall I am extremely happy with the end result. When it would come down from 7-8k it would vibrate through the car. That is completely gone. It also eliminated most of the drone and road noise. Definitely worth the 100 or so bucks and maybe 4-5 hours of time.
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#8
#9
Just wait for w extremely hot day, and watch it melt.. My old civic was completely done with dynamat, whole car, from back trunk to under dash, door panels and even pillars towards the roof... Ironically, there wasn't much road noise except for the fact that the car sounded like loose panels lol.. Once in a hot day, the mat would start melting and becoming a gooey substance that's a PITA to remove... It got so bad that I tried removing it off the car but that just made it all worse..
#10
Just wait for w extremely hot day, and watch it melt.. My old civic was completely done with dynamat, whole car, from back trunk to under dash, door panels and even pillars towards the roof... Ironically, there wasn't much road noise except for the fact that the car sounded like loose panels lol.. Once in a hot day, the mat would start melting and becoming a gooey substance that's a PITA to remove... It got so bad that I tried removing it off the car but that just made it all worse..