tkeyyy

just to fill. i'd recommend just sticking to the top but not taking off the side that goes onto the window molding.

np. i spent a lot of time trying to get rid of air/water leaks on my old replica before i got the authentic. took a lot of ghetto ingenuity lol.
you can also try lowering your strikers by adding a washer or two between the striker and the windshield and bolting it down with a bolt/washer on the outside end. it'll lower it by about 2-4mm depending on how thick the washer is.

Thateguhate

Lowering the strikers you have to be careful with. I did it and sripped part of my threads where it bolts in. Rockstar Garage tells you to take off the other side of the double sided adhesive and torque down and it worked for me. Another thing you should do is bolt the front down first, and then the rear. This allows you to seal the front up first eliminating more of those gaps. (if you have to yank back on the top to bring it back towards the rear.)

It helped for mine but my window does graze the top opening and closing it.

tkeyyy

sorry dave, but i wouldn't recommend that. kevin told me to do that as well, however that's one way to cause that issue. me being me, i like to make things flawless/functional without any issues. i'd recommend bolt down rears, then front and this is coming from experience of adjusting a replica/authentic top.

op, if you need help, i'll gladly help you get the stuff and adjustments. give you some small tips here and there, but you have to drive to me lol.

what hardtop do you have btw? forbidden?

JUSTINTHECOASTIE

Shitu grease your seals, use lock washers for the bolts used on the windshield brackets. How many shims are you using?

Thateguhate

I guess what it boils down to is what kind of mold you get.. Hopefully its one of the first few out of the bunch... I think mind was a late bloomer because my fitment was a bit off but I made it work eventually.

chViETnk

for soft top latches, go to any auto parts store and grab some air line tubing that will fit over the hook, this will give you a better grab

the problem with replicas is that the material is very thin and it's prone to squeeking and what not. you don't want to bolt the rear down too tight either or it'll squeek more.

even my authentic mugen squeeks so don't expect even a replica to be close to perfect

champwhts2

I pick up the top off Craigslist so I don't know who made it. So does the previous owner. This is my first s2000 haven't own it for that long.

champwhts2

Gotcha!! That puts my mind to ease a lil bit , thanks.

tkeyyy

mine doesn't
only thing that squeaks are my soft top hinges

Trustd_1

instead of double sided tape, you can probably use some weather stripping. there's also some heavy duty foam/neoprene like material that i've used on my cars to mount front plates to keep them from marring the paint. i've used it on the rear plates and some other uses before too. the stuff works great and comes in a roll w/an adhesive backing. got it in the heating & cooling section at home depot.