Do you have a Greddy Turbo & Track your car?
09-22-2011, 02:25 PM
#1
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Do you have a Greddy Turbo & Track your car?
Im wondering how it holds up on a road course such as Infinion....Any heat issues etc.,? Im thinking a Greddy unit putting out about 300-330HP. Would appreciate your input.
10-05-2011, 10:41 AM
#4
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Here are my thoughts on turbo for road course uses based on my on-track experience with my S2000 (stock na), aggressive canyon driving on my ‘10 STi, and everything else I’ve read here on the boards.
N/A:
n/a on track gets pretty hot. How hot? I don’t have exact numbers, but it’s HOT. Depending on the weather, how aggressive you drive on the track, what header you are running, and whether or not you have proper functional hood venting or not, some maybe hotter than others. I had the opportunity of running the PLM header back to back with my oem header. With the bare PLM header, aka not exhaust heat wrapped, my under hood temps were SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. Was it dangerously hot? I don’t think so. Did I feel a loss in performance from the heat? Not that I know of. And on that note, the PLM DID give noticeable power gains. Their design works! Granted it was a “copied” design, but it works! (my plm header is for sale if anyone is interested
) Aftermarket hoods like the j’s racing/mugen vented hoods, or their replica counter parts, seem to help a bit in cooling underhood temps. I’m sure some other designs help too. Cutting your oem hoods seems like it would help in cooling when you are stopped, but I’m not sure if it would do anything once the car is actually moving.
TURBO:
Turbo will obviously give you the most torque sooner compared to a supercharger since you will see peak boost from a relatively lower rpm versus having to wait for redline to hit the target boost. Torque in the s2k = TONS OF FUN! The downside, here’s the part that actually answers your question about running a turbo kit on track, is that turbo’s generate a lot of heat. As I mentioned before, a bare aftermarket header without heat shielding generates more heat under the hood. Now keep that mind, and now add an exhaust manifold (heat), turbo compressor that is powered by the exhaust on the hot side (heat), compressed air generated by the compressor on the cold side (compressed air = heat), downpipe (heat), charge pipes containing the hot compressed air going to the intercooler (heat), intercooler blocking the radiator preventing airflow (heat), etc. You see where I am getting at here? Now having said all that… is the idea of going turbo for track day use a complete loss and should be dumped? No. a turbo s2k is still capable of holding up on the track. A TON of people have done it. You just have to know how to manage the heat and keep an eye out for your gauges (which are recommended) for your car’s vitals. Some ideas of how you can keep temps lower is by heat wrapping your turbo and all pipes (manifold, downpipe, dumptube, charge pipes, etc.), vented hood, better radiator for your engine, oil coolers, etc. Some even go to the extremes and have a vmount setup! You should also keep in mind that typical sessions last anywhere from 20-25mins. That’s 20-25mins of full throttle, heat generating, and insanely fun minutes! A lot longer than your 12-16 sec runs on a drag strip, so keeping a close look at the car’s vitals is essential!
Cliffnotes: yes, it’s possible. Perform cooling mods and keep an eye out on your car’s vitals and you should be fine.
Sorry, I’m in training and got bored. They keep blabbering about this and that and I have no idea what they’re saying. Not that I’m not understanding the material, more like…stop blabbering and stay on the damns topics! Okay, that is all.
Sidenote:
When I drive in the twisties using the sti, I’m on full boost (target is 20 psi) for the most part of the drive. Typically this lasts anywhere from 15-30min intervals. Sometimes more if there are no cars (aka some days that I went on hwy9 during the weekdays when I was unemployed). Sometimes, A LOT less (like a few seconds or a few minutes) when there are cars infront of me that won’t move out of the car (I’m just kidding!!! Take it easy!!)The hwy9 drives are the most comparable to track days sessions due to the roads being less bumpy than others (this is arguable, but this is my opinion), so you are able to go full throttle almost as if you are on the track (DISCLAIMER: this is not recommended. I am in no way, shape, or form encouraging anyone to drive any public road over the posted speed limits. Please drive at your own risk!!!). First time I drove the road going uphill on the front side full on with this car, I went straight to the parking lot without cruising around to cool the brakes and the engine just to see how hot it was under the hood. IT WAS HOT!!! Of course I immediately proceeded to driving around to cool everything down, but I just wanted to see exactly how hot things got. And with that, ALWAYS DRIVE AROUND TO COOL THE CAR DOWN AFTER EACH SESSION. I can’t stress that enough.
Okay, I’m really done now.
N/A:
n/a on track gets pretty hot. How hot? I don’t have exact numbers, but it’s HOT. Depending on the weather, how aggressive you drive on the track, what header you are running, and whether or not you have proper functional hood venting or not, some maybe hotter than others. I had the opportunity of running the PLM header back to back with my oem header. With the bare PLM header, aka not exhaust heat wrapped, my under hood temps were SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. Was it dangerously hot? I don’t think so. Did I feel a loss in performance from the heat? Not that I know of. And on that note, the PLM DID give noticeable power gains. Their design works! Granted it was a “copied” design, but it works! (my plm header is for sale if anyone is interested
) Aftermarket hoods like the j’s racing/mugen vented hoods, or their replica counter parts, seem to help a bit in cooling underhood temps. I’m sure some other designs help too. Cutting your oem hoods seems like it would help in cooling when you are stopped, but I’m not sure if it would do anything once the car is actually moving. TURBO:
Turbo will obviously give you the most torque sooner compared to a supercharger since you will see peak boost from a relatively lower rpm versus having to wait for redline to hit the target boost. Torque in the s2k = TONS OF FUN! The downside, here’s the part that actually answers your question about running a turbo kit on track, is that turbo’s generate a lot of heat. As I mentioned before, a bare aftermarket header without heat shielding generates more heat under the hood. Now keep that mind, and now add an exhaust manifold (heat), turbo compressor that is powered by the exhaust on the hot side (heat), compressed air generated by the compressor on the cold side (compressed air = heat), downpipe (heat), charge pipes containing the hot compressed air going to the intercooler (heat), intercooler blocking the radiator preventing airflow (heat), etc. You see where I am getting at here? Now having said all that… is the idea of going turbo for track day use a complete loss and should be dumped? No. a turbo s2k is still capable of holding up on the track. A TON of people have done it. You just have to know how to manage the heat and keep an eye out for your gauges (which are recommended) for your car’s vitals. Some ideas of how you can keep temps lower is by heat wrapping your turbo and all pipes (manifold, downpipe, dumptube, charge pipes, etc.), vented hood, better radiator for your engine, oil coolers, etc. Some even go to the extremes and have a vmount setup! You should also keep in mind that typical sessions last anywhere from 20-25mins. That’s 20-25mins of full throttle, heat generating, and insanely fun minutes! A lot longer than your 12-16 sec runs on a drag strip, so keeping a close look at the car’s vitals is essential!
Cliffnotes: yes, it’s possible. Perform cooling mods and keep an eye out on your car’s vitals and you should be fine.
Sorry, I’m in training and got bored. They keep blabbering about this and that and I have no idea what they’re saying. Not that I’m not understanding the material, more like…stop blabbering and stay on the damns topics! Okay, that is all.
Sidenote:
When I drive in the twisties using the sti, I’m on full boost (target is 20 psi) for the most part of the drive. Typically this lasts anywhere from 15-30min intervals. Sometimes more if there are no cars (aka some days that I went on hwy9 during the weekdays when I was unemployed). Sometimes, A LOT less (like a few seconds or a few minutes) when there are cars infront of me that won’t move out of the car (I’m just kidding!!! Take it easy!!
)The hwy9 drives are the most comparable to track days sessions due to the roads being less bumpy than others (this is arguable, but this is my opinion), so you are able to go full throttle almost as if you are on the track (DISCLAIMER: this is not recommended. I am in no way, shape, or form encouraging anyone to drive any public road over the posted speed limits. Please drive at your own risk!!!). First time I drove the road going uphill on the front side full on with this car, I went straight to the parking lot without cruising around to cool the brakes and the engine just to see how hot it was under the hood. IT WAS HOT!!! Of course I immediately proceeded to driving around to cool everything down, but I just wanted to see exactly how hot things got. And with that, ALWAYS DRIVE AROUND TO COOL THE CAR DOWN AFTER EACH SESSION. I can’t stress that enough.Okay, I’m really done now.
10-05-2011, 06:24 PM
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Thanks for the input guys...I may just stick with my Comptech SC. Outkast, I seriously believe you have a career in writing should you so choose - very informative piece you wrote there. Again, my appreciation.
10-05-2011, 06:34 PM
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Here are my thoughts on turbo for road course uses based on my on-track experience with my S2000 (stock na), aggressive canyon driving on my ‘10 STi, and everything else I’ve read here on the boards.
N/A:
n/a on track gets pretty hot. How hot? I don’t have exact numbers, but it’s HOT. Depending on the weather, how aggressive you drive on the track, what header you are running, and whether or not you have proper functional hood venting or not, some maybe hotter than others. I had the opportunity of running the PLM header back to back with my oem header. With the bare PLM header, aka not exhaust heat wrapped, my under hood temps were SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. Was it dangerously hot? I don’t think so. Did I feel a loss in performance from the heat? Not that I know of. And on that note, the PLM DID give noticeable power gains. Their design works! Granted it was a “copied” design, but it works! (my plm header is for sale if anyone is interested) Aftermarket hoods like the j’s racing/mugen vented hoods, or their replica counter parts, seem to help a bit in cooling underhood temps. I’m sure some other designs help too. Cutting your oem hoods seems like it would help in cooling when you are stopped, but I’m not sure if it would do anything once the car is actually moving.
TURBO:
Turbo will obviously give you the most torque sooner compared to a supercharger since you will see peak boost from a relatively lower rpm versus having to wait for redline to hit the target boost. Torque in the s2k = TONS OF FUN! The downside, here’s the part that actually answers your question about running a turbo kit on track, is that turbo’s generate a lot of heat. As I mentioned before, a bare aftermarket header without heat shielding generates more heat under the hood. Now keep that mind, and now add an exhaust manifold (heat), turbo compressor that is powered by the exhaust on the hot side (heat), compressed air generated by the compressor on the cold side (compressed air = heat), downpipe (heat), charge pipes containing the hot compressed air going to the intercooler (heat), intercooler blocking the radiator preventing airflow (heat), etc. You see where I am getting at here? Now having said all that… is the idea of going turbo for track day use a complete loss and should be dumped? No. a turbo s2k is still capable of holding up on the track. A TON of people have done it. You just have to know how to manage the heat and keep an eye out for your gauges (which are recommended) for your car’s vitals. Some ideas of how you can keep temps lower is by heat wrapping your turbo and all pipes (manifold, downpipe, dumptube, charge pipes, etc.), vented hood, better radiator for your engine, oil coolers, etc. Some even go to the extremes and have a vmount setup! You should also keep in mind that typical sessions last anywhere from 20-25mins. That’s 20-25mins of full throttle, heat generating, and insanely fun minutes! A lot longer than your 12-16 sec runs on a drag strip, so keeping a close look at the car’s vitals is essential!
Cliffnotes: yes, it’s possible. Perform cooling mods and keep an eye out on your car’s vitals and you should be fine.
Sorry, I’m in training and got bored. They keep blabbering about this and that and I have no idea what they’re saying. Not that I’m not understanding the material, more like…stop blabbering and stay on the damns topics! Okay, that is all.
Sidenote:
When I drive in the twisties using the sti, I’m on full boost (target is 20 psi) for the most part of the drive. Typically this lasts anywhere from 15-30min intervals. Sometimes more if there are no cars (aka some days that I went on hwy9 during the weekdays when I was unemployed). Sometimes, A LOT less (like a few seconds or a few minutes) when there are cars infront of me that won’t move out of the car (I’m just kidding!!! Take it easy!!)The hwy9 drives are the most comparable to track days sessions due to the roads being less bumpy than others (this is arguable, but this is my opinion), so you are able to go full throttle almost as if you are on the track (DISCLAIMER: this is not recommended. I am in no way, shape, or form encouraging anyone to drive any public road over the posted speed limits. Please drive at your own risk!!!). First time I drove the road going uphill on the front side full on with this car, I went straight to the parking lot without cruising around to cool the brakes and the engine just to see how hot it was under the hood. IT WAS HOT!!! Of course I immediately proceeded to driving around to cool everything down, but I just wanted to see exactly how hot things got. And with that, ALWAYS DRIVE AROUND TO COOL THE CAR DOWN AFTER EACH SESSION. I can’t stress that enough.
Okay, I’m really done now.
N/A:
n/a on track gets pretty hot. How hot? I don’t have exact numbers, but it’s HOT. Depending on the weather, how aggressive you drive on the track, what header you are running, and whether or not you have proper functional hood venting or not, some maybe hotter than others. I had the opportunity of running the PLM header back to back with my oem header. With the bare PLM header, aka not exhaust heat wrapped, my under hood temps were SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. Was it dangerously hot? I don’t think so. Did I feel a loss in performance from the heat? Not that I know of. And on that note, the PLM DID give noticeable power gains. Their design works! Granted it was a “copied” design, but it works! (my plm header is for sale if anyone is interested
) Aftermarket hoods like the j’s racing/mugen vented hoods, or their replica counter parts, seem to help a bit in cooling underhood temps. I’m sure some other designs help too. Cutting your oem hoods seems like it would help in cooling when you are stopped, but I’m not sure if it would do anything once the car is actually moving. TURBO:
Turbo will obviously give you the most torque sooner compared to a supercharger since you will see peak boost from a relatively lower rpm versus having to wait for redline to hit the target boost. Torque in the s2k = TONS OF FUN! The downside, here’s the part that actually answers your question about running a turbo kit on track, is that turbo’s generate a lot of heat. As I mentioned before, a bare aftermarket header without heat shielding generates more heat under the hood. Now keep that mind, and now add an exhaust manifold (heat), turbo compressor that is powered by the exhaust on the hot side (heat), compressed air generated by the compressor on the cold side (compressed air = heat), downpipe (heat), charge pipes containing the hot compressed air going to the intercooler (heat), intercooler blocking the radiator preventing airflow (heat), etc. You see where I am getting at here? Now having said all that… is the idea of going turbo for track day use a complete loss and should be dumped? No. a turbo s2k is still capable of holding up on the track. A TON of people have done it. You just have to know how to manage the heat and keep an eye out for your gauges (which are recommended) for your car’s vitals. Some ideas of how you can keep temps lower is by heat wrapping your turbo and all pipes (manifold, downpipe, dumptube, charge pipes, etc.), vented hood, better radiator for your engine, oil coolers, etc. Some even go to the extremes and have a vmount setup! You should also keep in mind that typical sessions last anywhere from 20-25mins. That’s 20-25mins of full throttle, heat generating, and insanely fun minutes! A lot longer than your 12-16 sec runs on a drag strip, so keeping a close look at the car’s vitals is essential!
Cliffnotes: yes, it’s possible. Perform cooling mods and keep an eye out on your car’s vitals and you should be fine.
Sorry, I’m in training and got bored. They keep blabbering about this and that and I have no idea what they’re saying. Not that I’m not understanding the material, more like…stop blabbering and stay on the damns topics! Okay, that is all.
Sidenote:
When I drive in the twisties using the sti, I’m on full boost (target is 20 psi) for the most part of the drive. Typically this lasts anywhere from 15-30min intervals. Sometimes more if there are no cars (aka some days that I went on hwy9 during the weekdays when I was unemployed). Sometimes, A LOT less (like a few seconds or a few minutes) when there are cars infront of me that won’t move out of the car (I’m just kidding!!! Take it easy!!
)The hwy9 drives are the most comparable to track days sessions due to the roads being less bumpy than others (this is arguable, but this is my opinion), so you are able to go full throttle almost as if you are on the track (DISCLAIMER: this is not recommended. I am in no way, shape, or form encouraging anyone to drive any public road over the posted speed limits. Please drive at your own risk!!!). First time I drove the road going uphill on the front side full on with this car, I went straight to the parking lot without cruising around to cool the brakes and the engine just to see how hot it was under the hood. IT WAS HOT!!! Of course I immediately proceeded to driving around to cool everything down, but I just wanted to see exactly how hot things got. And with that, ALWAYS DRIVE AROUND TO COOL THE CAR DOWN AFTER EACH SESSION. I can’t stress that enough.Okay, I’m really done now.
what are your thoughts on high end suspension and spring rates that require rebuilds ?
Can I expect a novel? j/k
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10-05-2011, 07:43 PM
#8
Registered User
You're very welcome! And thank you for the kind words! Boredom tends to do that to you sometimes. Glad to be of service!
10-05-2011, 07:46 PM
#9
Registered User
Originally Posted by -outkast-' timestamp='1317840068' post='21042520
Here are my thoughts on turbo for road course uses based on my on-track experience with my S2000 (stock na), aggressive canyon driving on my ‘10 STi, and everything else I’ve read here on the boards.
N/A:
n/a on track gets pretty hot. How hot? I don’t have exact numbers, but it’s HOT. Depending on the weather, how aggressive you drive on the track, what header you are running, and whether or not you have proper functional hood venting or not, some maybe hotter than others. I had the opportunity of running the PLM header back to back with my oem header. With the bare PLM header, aka not exhaust heat wrapped, my under hood temps were SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. Was it dangerously hot? I don’t think so. Did I feel a loss in performance from the heat? Not that I know of. And on that note, the PLM DID give noticeable power gains. Their design works! Granted it was a “copied” design, but it works! (my plm header is for sale if anyone is interested) Aftermarket hoods like the j’s racing/mugen vented hoods, or their replica counter parts, seem to help a bit in cooling underhood temps. I’m sure some other designs help too. Cutting your oem hoods seems like it would help in cooling when you are stopped, but I’m not sure if it would do anything once the car is actually moving.
TURBO:
Turbo will obviously give you the most torque sooner compared to a supercharger since you will see peak boost from a relatively lower rpm versus having to wait for redline to hit the target boost. Torque in the s2k = TONS OF FUN! The downside, here’s the part that actually answers your question about running a turbo kit on track, is that turbo’s generate a lot of heat. As I mentioned before, a bare aftermarket header without heat shielding generates more heat under the hood. Now keep that mind, and now add an exhaust manifold (heat), turbo compressor that is powered by the exhaust on the hot side (heat), compressed air generated by the compressor on the cold side (compressed air = heat), downpipe (heat), charge pipes containing the hot compressed air going to the intercooler (heat), intercooler blocking the radiator preventing airflow (heat), etc. You see where I am getting at here? Now having said all that… is the idea of going turbo for track day use a complete loss and should be dumped? No. a turbo s2k is still capable of holding up on the track. A TON of people have done it. You just have to know how to manage the heat and keep an eye out for your gauges (which are recommended) for your car’s vitals. Some ideas of how you can keep temps lower is by heat wrapping your turbo and all pipes (manifold, downpipe, dumptube, charge pipes, etc.), vented hood, better radiator for your engine, oil coolers, etc. Some even go to the extremes and have a vmount setup! You should also keep in mind that typical sessions last anywhere from 20-25mins. That’s 20-25mins of full throttle, heat generating, and insanely fun minutes! A lot longer than your 12-16 sec runs on a drag strip, so keeping a close look at the car’s vitals is essential!
Cliffnotes: yes, it’s possible. Perform cooling mods and keep an eye out on your car’s vitals and you should be fine.
Sorry, I’m in training and got bored. They keep blabbering about this and that and I have no idea what they’re saying. Not that I’m not understanding the material, more like…stop blabbering and stay on the damns topics! Okay, that is all.
Sidenote:
When I drive in the twisties using the sti, I’m on full boost (target is 20 psi) for the most part of the drive. Typically this lasts anywhere from 15-30min intervals. Sometimes more if there are no cars (aka some days that I went on hwy9 during the weekdays when I was unemployed). Sometimes, A LOT less (like a few seconds or a few minutes) when there are cars infront of me that won’t move out of the car (I’m just kidding!!! Take it easy!!)The hwy9 drives are the most comparable to track days sessions due to the roads being less bumpy than others (this is arguable, but this is my opinion), so you are able to go full throttle almost as if you are on the track (DISCLAIMER: this is not recommended. I am in no way, shape, or form encouraging anyone to drive any public road over the posted speed limits. Please drive at your own risk!!!). First time I drove the road going uphill on the front side full on with this car, I went straight to the parking lot without cruising around to cool the brakes and the engine just to see how hot it was under the hood. IT WAS HOT!!! Of course I immediately proceeded to driving around to cool everything down, but I just wanted to see exactly how hot things got. And with that, ALWAYS DRIVE AROUND TO COOL THE CAR DOWN AFTER EACH SESSION. I can’t stress that enough.
Okay, I’m really done now.
N/A:
n/a on track gets pretty hot. How hot? I don’t have exact numbers, but it’s HOT. Depending on the weather, how aggressive you drive on the track, what header you are running, and whether or not you have proper functional hood venting or not, some maybe hotter than others. I had the opportunity of running the PLM header back to back with my oem header. With the bare PLM header, aka not exhaust heat wrapped, my under hood temps were SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. Was it dangerously hot? I don’t think so. Did I feel a loss in performance from the heat? Not that I know of. And on that note, the PLM DID give noticeable power gains. Their design works! Granted it was a “copied” design, but it works! (my plm header is for sale if anyone is interested
) Aftermarket hoods like the j’s racing/mugen vented hoods, or their replica counter parts, seem to help a bit in cooling underhood temps. I’m sure some other designs help too. Cutting your oem hoods seems like it would help in cooling when you are stopped, but I’m not sure if it would do anything once the car is actually moving. TURBO:
Turbo will obviously give you the most torque sooner compared to a supercharger since you will see peak boost from a relatively lower rpm versus having to wait for redline to hit the target boost. Torque in the s2k = TONS OF FUN! The downside, here’s the part that actually answers your question about running a turbo kit on track, is that turbo’s generate a lot of heat. As I mentioned before, a bare aftermarket header without heat shielding generates more heat under the hood. Now keep that mind, and now add an exhaust manifold (heat), turbo compressor that is powered by the exhaust on the hot side (heat), compressed air generated by the compressor on the cold side (compressed air = heat), downpipe (heat), charge pipes containing the hot compressed air going to the intercooler (heat), intercooler blocking the radiator preventing airflow (heat), etc. You see where I am getting at here? Now having said all that… is the idea of going turbo for track day use a complete loss and should be dumped? No. a turbo s2k is still capable of holding up on the track. A TON of people have done it. You just have to know how to manage the heat and keep an eye out for your gauges (which are recommended) for your car’s vitals. Some ideas of how you can keep temps lower is by heat wrapping your turbo and all pipes (manifold, downpipe, dumptube, charge pipes, etc.), vented hood, better radiator for your engine, oil coolers, etc. Some even go to the extremes and have a vmount setup! You should also keep in mind that typical sessions last anywhere from 20-25mins. That’s 20-25mins of full throttle, heat generating, and insanely fun minutes! A lot longer than your 12-16 sec runs on a drag strip, so keeping a close look at the car’s vitals is essential!
Cliffnotes: yes, it’s possible. Perform cooling mods and keep an eye out on your car’s vitals and you should be fine.
Sorry, I’m in training and got bored. They keep blabbering about this and that and I have no idea what they’re saying. Not that I’m not understanding the material, more like…stop blabbering and stay on the damns topics! Okay, that is all.
Sidenote:
When I drive in the twisties using the sti, I’m on full boost (target is 20 psi) for the most part of the drive. Typically this lasts anywhere from 15-30min intervals. Sometimes more if there are no cars (aka some days that I went on hwy9 during the weekdays when I was unemployed). Sometimes, A LOT less (like a few seconds or a few minutes) when there are cars infront of me that won’t move out of the car (I’m just kidding!!! Take it easy!!
)The hwy9 drives are the most comparable to track days sessions due to the roads being less bumpy than others (this is arguable, but this is my opinion), so you are able to go full throttle almost as if you are on the track (DISCLAIMER: this is not recommended. I am in no way, shape, or form encouraging anyone to drive any public road over the posted speed limits. Please drive at your own risk!!!). First time I drove the road going uphill on the front side full on with this car, I went straight to the parking lot without cruising around to cool the brakes and the engine just to see how hot it was under the hood. IT WAS HOT!!! Of course I immediately proceeded to driving around to cool everything down, but I just wanted to see exactly how hot things got. And with that, ALWAYS DRIVE AROUND TO COOL THE CAR DOWN AFTER EACH SESSION. I can’t stress that enough.Okay, I’m really done now.
what are your thoughts on high end suspension and spring rates that require rebuilds ?
Can I expect a novel? j/k
10-05-2011, 07:47 PM
#10
Registered User
