I'm running an Alpine Mp3 head (forgot model number), Polk Momo carbon fiber components up front being pushed by a 4x45 (bridge to two channel) US Acoustics amps and a Infinity BassLink 10" sub (w/built in amp) in the trunk. I give the system an overall thumbs up, even when driving with the top and windows down but you're not going to win any competitions with this setup.

The biggest plus was that BassLink sub. It will fit right on top of your jack and not stick up too much. You still will have lots of usable trunk space and it bumps pretty well. I used to have two JL Audio W6s in my old car so I am pretty picky about bass. Knowing the total bass output was going to drecrease GREATLY with the BassLink, I was still pretty impressed by the output and sound quality. I dont even have to run it to it's max to enjoy music on the freeway.

Hope this help a little.

 

Save your money...We have a small interior space.. Sounds need space in order to amplify... And once you drop the top you ain't going to hear it. Anyway...I took all this from my previous car a Alpine CDA7998 and a Boston Acoustic Pro series 6.5 component and spent just $400 on a 12" w3's JL sub in a custom box power by my old 85wx2 rms & bridge 175w RMS Polk Momo series amp..It sounds pretty good but it sounds better in my old VR6 Jetta.

 

Hung has a very good sound system in his car.

 

I would do components and an amp for sure if you want to hear it on the freeway. I ran with just that for awhile and got sick of the highs piercing my ears with no kinda bass. So I threw in a JL stealthbox and amp and have more than enough bass, even on the freeway.

I agree. I have a JL stealth box with a four channel Fosgate amp to run all my speakers. My component speakers I got on line for about $175. Do a search for CDT speakers great quality for a great price.

 

To be honest what i wanted to do with my alpine 9857 deck was run the 2 front channels to just the tweeters and then run the 2 rear channels to just the front 6 1/2" speakers, that way i'd be running about 18 - 22watts RMS each tweeter and speaker maximizing the alpine's internal amp instead of spliting the 2 front channels of 18watts rms between the components. i haven't taken to time to run all the wiring though yet.

 

[QUOTE=db17k,May 23 2007, 11:37 AM] To be honest what i wanted to do with my alpine 9857 deck was run the 2 front channels to just the tweeters and then run the 2 rear channels to just the front 6 1/2" speakers, that way i'd be running about 18 - 22watts RMS each tweeter and speaker maximizing the alpine's internal amp instead of spliting the 2 front channels of 18watts rms between the components.

 

To really be sure, you would want to see if the amp is stable running a 2-ohm load. Usually, lowering resistance increases power as long as the amp doesn't overheat. I just run an amp though.

 

Generally speaking 1/2 the resistance = twice the power.

 

haha i have (4) 50mm "speakers"..... they sing a really good honda song while driving topdown after vtec

 

good point, didn't think about that. the only wiring i'm used to is with DVC subs (2 & 4 ohm configurations), but the same rules apply here too and unfortunately component speakers don't have the flexability of DVCs. thanks.

yeah it'd be running of the alpine deck's internal amp, usually those small internal ones don't have the 2 ohm 4 ohm compatibility like say a JL audio amp does, but i could look into it thanks.

edit:checked it out, cnet says it's 4 ohm.