Clutch fluid DIY--different methods?
08-31-2011 | 02:23 PM
#11
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 21
You can do it alone on almost any Honda..
-unscrew slave bleed screw
-(manually) slowly pump the pedal to the floor and pull it back up. Do this for 4 full strokes and leave it pressed to the floor. (4 for the S in particular should leave just enough fluid be at the bottom level)
-top off the master cylinder
-slowly pump the pedal to the floor 4 full strokes again slowly and leave it on the floor again
-top off master cylinder
-close the slave cylinder
-slowly raise the pedal off the floor
If you think about it, there's no way that air bubbles could be introduced into the system that way because the master was never empty. And since the bleeder screw is open, it can't build enough pressure to push against the spring behind the clutch pedal. If you want to be extra careful, submerge the tube/hose you used on the bleeder screw into brake fluid so both ends have liquid.
-unscrew slave bleed screw
-(manually) slowly pump the pedal to the floor and pull it back up. Do this for 4 full strokes and leave it pressed to the floor. (4 for the S in particular should leave just enough fluid be at the bottom level)
-top off the master cylinder
-slowly pump the pedal to the floor 4 full strokes again slowly and leave it on the floor again
-top off master cylinder
-close the slave cylinder
-slowly raise the pedal off the floor
If you think about it, there's no way that air bubbles could be introduced into the system that way because the master was never empty. And since the bleeder screw is open, it can't build enough pressure to push against the spring behind the clutch pedal. If you want to be extra careful, submerge the tube/hose you used on the bleeder screw into brake fluid so both ends have liquid.
08-31-2011 | 02:49 PM
#12
Former Moderator
Joined: May 2006
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From: Emmett
If you think about it, there's no way that air bubbles could be introduced into the system that way because the master was never empty. And since the bleeder screw is open, it can't build enough pressure to push against the spring behind the clutch pedal. If you want to be extra careful, submerge the tube/hose you used on the bleeder screw into brake fluid so both ends have liquid.
08-31-2011 | 03:13 PM
#13
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,657
Likes: 170
love gravity bleeding. Nice and hard afterwards. Billman suggested it and I was sold after I did it.
Clutch is very easy. There is a little bleed valve down there. If you want to remove the clutch slave and polish off the end it will feel even smoother.
Clutch is very easy. There is a little bleed valve down there. If you want to remove the clutch slave and polish off the end it will feel even smoother.
08-31-2011 | 03:14 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 49
From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by dagle' timestamp='1314825830' post='20932429
If you think about it, there's no way that air bubbles could be introduced into the system that way because the master was never empty. And since the bleeder screw is open, it can't build enough pressure to push against the spring behind the clutch pedal. If you want to be extra careful, submerge the tube/hose you used on the bleeder screw into brake fluid so both ends have liquid.
How about this?:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4
09-01-2011 | 08:46 PM
#15
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 118
Likes: 2
The best way to bleed hydraulics is to use your engine vacuum to pull fluid out from the system.
Find a reservoir and drill 2 holes on the cap (use a thick plastic container, otherwise a thin one will get crushed as the vac source is strong)
One line goes to any vac line that you can find on ur motor that wont cause it to die
Other line goes to your bleeder valve
Open your valve to pull fluid
This requires common sense, because if your an idiot you WILL suck fluid into your motor (possibly hydrolock?) or you will dry out your resevoir and just make more work for yourself.
Requires 2 people, one under the car and the other to keep the resevoir filled.
Find a reservoir and drill 2 holes on the cap (use a thick plastic container, otherwise a thin one will get crushed as the vac source is strong)
One line goes to any vac line that you can find on ur motor that wont cause it to die
Other line goes to your bleeder valve
Open your valve to pull fluid
This requires common sense, because if your an idiot you WILL suck fluid into your motor (possibly hydrolock?) or you will dry out your resevoir and just make more work for yourself.
Requires 2 people, one under the car and the other to keep the resevoir filled.
09-01-2011 | 11:02 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 49
From: San Francisco
The best way to bleed hydraulics is to use your engine vacuum to pull fluid out from the system.
Find a reservoir and drill 2 holes on the cap (use a thick plastic container, otherwise a thin one will get crushed as the vac source is strong)
One line goes to any vac line that you can find on ur motor that wont cause it to die
Other line goes to your bleeder valve
Open your valve to pull fluid
This requires common sense, because if your an idiot you WILL suck fluid into your motor (possibly hydrolock?) or you will dry out your resevoir and just make more work for yourself.
Requires 2 people, one under the car and the other to keep the resevoir filled.
Find a reservoir and drill 2 holes on the cap (use a thick plastic container, otherwise a thin one will get crushed as the vac source is strong)
One line goes to any vac line that you can find on ur motor that wont cause it to die
Other line goes to your bleeder valve
Open your valve to pull fluid
This requires common sense, because if your an idiot you WILL suck fluid into your motor (possibly hydrolock?) or you will dry out your resevoir and just make more work for yourself.
Requires 2 people, one under the car and the other to keep the resevoir filled.
LOL I stopped reading when you mentioned hydrolocking the motor. I think I'll just suck it up and try xvipers method.
09-02-2011 | 08:26 AM
#17
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 21
Originally Posted by dagle' timestamp='1314825830' post='20932429
If you think about it, there's no way that air bubbles could be introduced into the system that way because the master was never empty. And since the bleeder screw is open, it can't build enough pressure to push against the spring behind the clutch pedal. If you want to be extra careful, submerge the tube/hose you used on the bleeder screw into brake fluid so both ends have liquid.
i just did this 3 days ago when i swapped out the master and it's fine
09-06-2011 | 02:32 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 49
From: San Francisco
BUMP:
Anyone know where I can get Super High Temp Urea grease for a decent price in the South Bay?
Or is $15+ (*cough*$16.33+tax @ SouthBayHonda *cough* $18.40 @ Sunnyvale Acura *cough*) for a small tub the normal going rate?
Anyone know where I can get Super High Temp Urea grease for a decent price in the South Bay?
Or is $15+ (*cough*$16.33+tax @ SouthBayHonda *cough* $18.40 @ Sunnyvale Acura *cough*) for a small tub the normal going rate?
01-08-2013 | 07:21 PM
#19
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
My local honda let me use theirs. Dont know why but they did
01-08-2013 | 07:32 PM
#20
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,765
Likes: 2
From: Bay Area, California
are you trying to regrease the shifter?