California - Bay Area S2000 Owners California Bay Area S2000 Owners Group

body shop recommendations

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Old 12-16-2011, 01:19 AM
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well my paint job is 3 stage paint and 4 stage clear coat. California law says at least 2 stage clear coat has to be shot by the authorized body shops, and the prices that I have stated are the cheapest he can find. I didnt go for the cheapest place either. and my whole car is painted, door jams and everything.

not only that my body kit is a full wide body kit, which means quarter panels has to be painted, and my panels are dramatically larger then regular car parts (surface wise), my front splitter is alone comes all the way under transmission. asm body pieces are not that large. so when they painted my body kit it was close to 20 pieces with the small ones. + hood, doors, trunk, door handles and they all came off the car etc. I am not going to show off the number i paid but it was over 5K
Old 12-16-2011, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by S2KVee
If u want it cheap and Fast, it won't be good
If u want it fast and good, it won't be cheap
If u want it cheap and good, it won't be fast

Take your pick... Lol
Good luck on fitment issue.. The shops I know which is willing to do fitment on aftermarket parts charges an insane amount... It's ridiculous to the point where it cost similar to authentic parts or good quality replicas..

Cheap Replica asm bumper - $125
Fitment and paint - $550

Vis good quality asm rep bumper $250
Paint only $225 (no fitment mods required)

Originally Posted by kaansahbaz
depends on many many many factors.

major 3 major factors.and several small factors

1. quality of the material (how many pin hole, how wavy the fiberglass is (it bumps up the prep time)
2. fitmet on the bpdy kit and necessery modifications. your body kit might require 10 hours of fiberglass work time or 40 hours of work time while pieces are getting put together.
3. how many pieces are getting painted. if only 4-5 pieces or, whole car , and also if you want door jams, under the hood, under the trunk

after these major factors then

1. brand and quality of the paint
2. color you pick, how many stage shoot
3. brand and price of the clear coat. and i think this is one of the most important part of the paint job



let me tell you this, your car is lets say 10 years old, and paint is 10 years old, apparently your paint (especially black) fades a lot faster then many other colors, if you just get the new parts fitted and painted, color will not match what so ever.

so here is my quote for you, lets assume your fitment is bad and you want a just okay fitment so lets assume he needs to spend at least 15 hours of fiberglass add on,sanding, and correction for the full kit. and whole car is getting painted to black and only outside. it wont be cheaper then $3000 at a bodyshop

if you want to get it done at some guys garage maybe $2000
cheapest! and boy I hope you will find any cheaper. like I said, cheapest body shops are on craigslist. what ever people are referring here are gonna be 4K+ (door jams not included) in my opinion. I did lots of research while my car was getting painted and mine didnt require much more (no work at all) to be honest. I gave them the pieces and they prepped it like oem, painted like OEM. it didnt get painted on the car or body shop didnt install or did any modification on the body parts either.
on both counts; good info here from experienced people.

When you work with replicas; typically there is a lot of labor involved to fitting the kit properly on the car. On top of that, there is prep work which needs to be done. Its a make it or break it kind of deal when it comes to prep work. A good paint job cant hide poor prep work.

To save yourself some money, if you have the time & resources; you can install the kit yourself & do as much prep work as you can before bringing it in to a bodyshop. From what I've seen, bodyshops will charge a minimum of about $90-$100/hr. You can do the math from there.

In your case; I would start with $2.5K ready to blow on the body shop + additional funds ($1-2K) for the excess "unknown" costs affiliated with most projects. (This is not putting in consideration your hookup prices from your daddy)

Here in lies the benefits & qualities of running an authentic part(s)/kit amongst others. Although fitting & adjustments are still required; its not nearly close to how much time & effort a replica will need - excess bondo sucks. In the end & in general; the authentic parts will always hold up better through the wear & tear of daily use & will almost always look better. There are a few good replica companies out there that improve on fitment from the Original Manufacturer; I will say from what I've seen, Shine is one of them for some of their replica parts.

If you follow the trail from the other thread about, "WTB Track Car" - IMHO, this thread here is yet another reason for you to consider the potential of selling your car & getting into another S2K. I foresee: Year 2012 - Project Money Pit Restoration. But if this is what makes you happy, go for it!?!

$$$$$$$$$$$$0.02
Old 12-16-2011, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by kaansahbaz
well my paint job is 3 stage paint and 4 stage clear coat. California law says at least 2 stage clear coat has to be shot by the authorized body shops, and the prices that I have stated are the cheapest he can find. I didnt go for the cheapest place either. and my whole car is painted, door jams and everything.

not only that my body kit is a full wide body kit, which means quarter panels has to be painted, and my panels are dramatically larger then regular car parts (surface wise), my front splitter is alone comes all the way under transmission. asm body pieces are not that large. so when they painted my body kit it was close to 20 pieces with the small ones. + hood, doors, trunk, door handles and they all came off the car etc. I am not going to show off the number i paid but it was over 5K
No problem for not saying exact number, the $5k ballpark figure and your detailed description was much appreciated.
Your car looks great, a job well done by you, and by the shop!
Old 12-16-2011, 01:40 AM
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Appreciate your kind comment. see you next time, are you going tmw ?
Old 12-16-2011, 01:49 AM
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Exactly what Kaan said. Time is $ to people. Fitment is going to be your big drainer... (if I understand your 1st post) you can get it painted at your dads body shop. Then you'll just be paying for the cost of paint.

To be honest I hate having friends do the work especially if something else is wrong after that... its a hassle and what not. I don't know what Phil charges but the reason why I forward you to him is
1. Your on s2ki.
2. Its business
3. Reliable
4. Worksmanship and quality. (If your lucky you'll see his orange supra :jizz
5. Knowledgable and professional staff

And your right about one thing alot of shops turn away after market parts especially replicas due to fitment. Especially the duraflex crap.


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Old 12-16-2011, 02:57 AM
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i appriciate all the comments and tips and what not, im keeping an open mind and we will see what this guy offers before proceding
Old 12-16-2011, 07:02 AM
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My point was not just for this guy - but in general...Try out your options on the boards & on the internet.
Old 12-16-2011, 07:08 AM
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I'm interested in local shops too in the South Bay, and I've seen a lot of talk about prices in general -- but no actual shop recommendations. I know a lot of you have had work done, where was it done? Common now
Old 12-16-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by danvuquoc
I'm interested in local shops too in the South Bay, and I've seen a lot of talk about prices in general -- but no actual shop recommendations. I know a lot of you have had work done, where was it done? Common now
I'm actually curious of other shops in the Bay as well! Particularly one that has done & is knowledgable with applying matte clear on CF - even more so if the CF is prepeg which takes knowledge & experience as opposed to just shooting over wet laid CF.

Old 12-16-2011, 09:32 AM
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My family has used Gava's auto body for all our family car's fixes. I think they are in South City or somewhere near there.
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