Wait that isn't an F20c
#222
Registered User
WOW WOW WOW WOW! This is awesome!
I've blown up several speed controllers and lipos on my RC cars but that was no biggy. But this!! Just wow! So cool of you!
Haha i'm just gonna ask it. Where do you get your funds from for this!? Those batteries can't be cheap... and that speed controller!! $$$$!!!
I've blown up several speed controllers and lipos on my RC cars but that was no biggy. But this!! Just wow! So cool of you!
Haha i'm just gonna ask it. Where do you get your funds from for this!? Those batteries can't be cheap... and that speed controller!! $$$$!!!
#223
Its too much time to individually test each module :/. Each one would take about 8 hours on my test bench.
It is awesome to see a local S2ki student!!! Once the car is complete we can meet up and you can take the car for a spin
WOW WOW WOW WOW! This is awesome!
I've blown up several speed controllers and lipos on my RC cars but that was no biggy. But this!! Just wow! So cool of you!
Haha i'm just gonna ask it. Where do you get your funds from for this!? Those batteries can't be cheap... and that speed controller!! $$!!!
I've blown up several speed controllers and lipos on my RC cars but that was no biggy. But this!! Just wow! So cool of you!
Haha i'm just gonna ask it. Where do you get your funds from for this!? Those batteries can't be cheap... and that speed controller!! $$!!!
I got an email last week with a REAL # RARE LIVE ACTION SHOT FROM TED
nice
And in other news, I finally got some progress done on the motor plate and MAN IT IS SO MUCH WORK DAMN
Increasing the precision of a piece exponentially increases the price / time necessary to assemble it seems.
All the work, and a fair amount of expertise, is a result of John Wilson at Laser Logic. He has kindly sponsored the project, and has supplied all of my lasering and router needs. And hes so much smarter than me when it comes to engineering.
THANKS JOHN!!!
MOUNTING THE 1/2" PLATE!!!
CUT THAT PLATE
WHAT
cool
And then John taught me how to use a lathe
The most difficult part of the process was getting the stupid pipe aligned, which was impossible because the entire pipe wasn't close to true. Same thing with the plate, completely not flat / consistent.
I had to use the lathe for a couple of hours, and it was fun until I dug a little too deep into the pipe and the machine ALMOST KILLED ME by trying to swallow the pipe. Nonetheless me and the machine settled our differences and completed the pipe at around 10 pm.
I left a very fair length of pipe on the coupler assembly because I will have to throw the entire thing on the lathe once it is welded so that I can make sure it is true. Afterwards, the holes will be drilled using a mill.
And kinda complete..
I dropped the assembly off at the welders today after school, and I will probably pick it up on Monday :/.
Once it is done I kinda want to try anodizing it some crazy color but I dont know yet...
I also booted the controller up !
#230
Well the coupler is (almost) done and (almost) fits perfectly!
I spent the first 3 days of holiday at the machine shop with John Wilson, who instructed me on the best path to take for fabricating the coupler, taught me how to use the specific machines, and then set me loose! Awesome guy in general.
Last time I updated, I had just completed machining the coupler to send to the welder. I picked up the welded piece on monday, and got to work on it on Wednesday. After having the coupler welded, the entire thing was warped to complete crap. About .15" of variance between the two faces aka horrible. So I chucked it in the lathe, and worked on the faces for about 3 hours. Its a slow process, but when a giant coupler is spinning in the machine at about 2000 rpm and digging too far into the material may send it hurdling across the room its okay to work slowly.
Here is the coupler after having it welded
and here it is in spinning death trap form
The lathe had automatic feed, so I would just make the adjustments, flip a lever, and watch is slowly make its way across the face.
A day or so of work later BAM!!!
Beautiful.
Next John taught me how to use the mill with digital read out. I got a little too caught up in the process, but long story short I calculated the cartesian coordinates of the holes in CAD, then found bolt clearances for the specific faces, and began working on a holding plate.
Because the holes had to be in the exact same spot on the opposite side of the coupler, it was important to develop a method by which I could flip the coupler over and still have it in the same location / rotation as before. To do this, I first drilled an aluminum plate with the same coordinates as the holes that are on a 6" diameter, then drilled the coupler with the same holes as the aluminum plate, then flipped over and placed pins through the holes to hold the coupler in place.
It was awesome!!
The result:
Machined to a tolerance of .005" . It was totally worth the 20+ hours of work invested!
THEN i went home and drilled some holes for the motor coupling into the aluminum motor coupler
And then some assembly pics...
And complete-ish
Everything is good right? WRONG. You see, I made a stupid stupid stupid mistake. When I was designing the coupler, I had my motors in CW-CW drive end field directions, which in turn causes my wheels to spin in reverse when I want to go forward. In order to fix this, one simply needs to advance the timing so that you are CCW-CCW drive end. Unfortunately, I neglected advancing my motors before I began designing the coupler, and as a result I made a bad mistake.
Advancing of the motor involved spinning the commutator end housing, and as a result SPINS THE SECOND MOTOR 15 DEG CCW UGH!!!!
So now my holes at 15 degrees off.
The picture above shows the motors in CW-CW DE field direction.
Pretty stupid.
Oh well, nothing a little milling cant fix !
Additionally, I need to route one of the faces with a 1/8" channel so that I can route the wire from the RPM sensor out from inside the assembly.
I also want to anodize it purple or green because the bare aluminum color looks boring with all the other aluminum.
In other news, I have been working on my charger diligently, and am almost ready to begin designing an aluminum enclosure for it. Ill update in a couple of minutes with pictures of the charger.
I also got some vacuum system stuff in the mail.
I had to replace that weird pinch fitting with a threaded nipple. The air pressure sensor is threaded for m5, so I had to order the fitting and it took a while to arrive.
Some 1/8" tubing will provide the sensor with readings
I spent the first 3 days of holiday at the machine shop with John Wilson, who instructed me on the best path to take for fabricating the coupler, taught me how to use the specific machines, and then set me loose! Awesome guy in general.
Last time I updated, I had just completed machining the coupler to send to the welder. I picked up the welded piece on monday, and got to work on it on Wednesday. After having the coupler welded, the entire thing was warped to complete crap. About .15" of variance between the two faces aka horrible. So I chucked it in the lathe, and worked on the faces for about 3 hours. Its a slow process, but when a giant coupler is spinning in the machine at about 2000 rpm and digging too far into the material may send it hurdling across the room its okay to work slowly.
Here is the coupler after having it welded
and here it is in spinning death trap form
The lathe had automatic feed, so I would just make the adjustments, flip a lever, and watch is slowly make its way across the face.
A day or so of work later BAM!!!
Beautiful.
Next John taught me how to use the mill with digital read out. I got a little too caught up in the process, but long story short I calculated the cartesian coordinates of the holes in CAD, then found bolt clearances for the specific faces, and began working on a holding plate.
Because the holes had to be in the exact same spot on the opposite side of the coupler, it was important to develop a method by which I could flip the coupler over and still have it in the same location / rotation as before. To do this, I first drilled an aluminum plate with the same coordinates as the holes that are on a 6" diameter, then drilled the coupler with the same holes as the aluminum plate, then flipped over and placed pins through the holes to hold the coupler in place.
It was awesome!!
The result:
Machined to a tolerance of .005" . It was totally worth the 20+ hours of work invested!
THEN i went home and drilled some holes for the motor coupling into the aluminum motor coupler
And then some assembly pics...
And complete-ish
Everything is good right? WRONG. You see, I made a stupid stupid stupid mistake. When I was designing the coupler, I had my motors in CW-CW drive end field directions, which in turn causes my wheels to spin in reverse when I want to go forward. In order to fix this, one simply needs to advance the timing so that you are CCW-CCW drive end. Unfortunately, I neglected advancing my motors before I began designing the coupler, and as a result I made a bad mistake.
Advancing of the motor involved spinning the commutator end housing, and as a result SPINS THE SECOND MOTOR 15 DEG CCW UGH!!!!
So now my holes at 15 degrees off.
The picture above shows the motors in CW-CW DE field direction.
Pretty stupid.
Oh well, nothing a little milling cant fix !
Additionally, I need to route one of the faces with a 1/8" channel so that I can route the wire from the RPM sensor out from inside the assembly.
I also want to anodize it purple or green because the bare aluminum color looks boring with all the other aluminum.
In other news, I have been working on my charger diligently, and am almost ready to begin designing an aluminum enclosure for it. Ill update in a couple of minutes with pictures of the charger.
I also got some vacuum system stuff in the mail.
I had to replace that weird pinch fitting with a threaded nipple. The air pressure sensor is threaded for m5, so I had to order the fitting and it took a while to arrive.
Some 1/8" tubing will provide the sensor with readings