o_O S2000 | Mk I — Stage II
#511
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by andrewhake' timestamp='1393109673' post='23028994
Also pulled a nice all nighter in the mountains until about 6am last night. Practicing a tricky corner trying to find the ideal line and brake release point with my friend. A well tuned S2000 in full song and grip mode is more fun to watch through a corner than some 240s doing slow speed drifts.
I don't know if I can stay up that late to try and catch you guys in the mountains... jesus
#512
Thread Starter
Just wanted to say that after installing the aluminum hub rings I notice less vibration through the car at high speeds. (90+mph). The difference is not dramatic and it may very well be a total placebo but it does feel a bit more solid to me at speed.
I am sure tire wear plays a larger role in vibration at high speed but with fresh tires it feels better to me with hub rings than without. A high temp grease was used before the rings were placed on the hub so hopefully I won't run into any issues or annoyances when remounting wheels at the track. If I don't I will definitely keep running them, it's all the little details and anything that makes the car feel slightly more solid is a worth it in my book.
I am sure tire wear plays a larger role in vibration at high speed but with fresh tires it feels better to me with hub rings than without. A high temp grease was used before the rings were placed on the hub so hopefully I won't run into any issues or annoyances when remounting wheels at the track. If I don't I will definitely keep running them, it's all the little details and anything that makes the car feel slightly more solid is a worth it in my book.
#513
Just wanted to say that after installing the aluminum hub rings I notice less vibration through the car at high speeds. (90+mph). The difference is not dramatic and it may very well be a total placebo but it does feel a bit more solid to me at speed.
I am sure tire wear plays a larger role in vibration at high speed but with fresh tires it feels better to me with hub rings than without. A high temp grease was used before the rings were placed on the hub so hopefully I won't run into any issues or annoyances when remounting wheels at the track. If I don't I will definitely keep running them, it's all the little details and anything that makes the car feel slightly more solid is a worth it in my book.
I am sure tire wear plays a larger role in vibration at high speed but with fresh tires it feels better to me with hub rings than without. A high temp grease was used before the rings were placed on the hub so hopefully I won't run into any issues or annoyances when remounting wheels at the track. If I don't I will definitely keep running them, it's all the little details and anything that makes the car feel slightly more solid is a worth it in my book.
#514
Thread Starter
I got them from here, mainly because they also had the replacement stickers available. But you can get them from any shoot that sells Rays wheels. I had to wait and have them shipped from Japan.
http://www.nengun.com/rays/hub-rings
For the S2000 you need:
73.1mm/70.1mm front
73.1mm/64.1mm rear
And obviously make sure the outer diameter will work with whatever wheel you are using. My CE28Ns require 73.1 outer diameter so that is what I listed. If you use them make sure to use some high temp grease before putting them on the hub so they are easy to remove when necessary.
http://www.nengun.com/rays/hub-rings
For the S2000 you need:
73.1mm/70.1mm front
73.1mm/64.1mm rear
And obviously make sure the outer diameter will work with whatever wheel you are using. My CE28Ns require 73.1 outer diameter so that is what I listed. If you use them make sure to use some high temp grease before putting them on the hub so they are easy to remove when necessary.
#515
^ appreciate it!
I have TE37's so they are also 73.1 diameter wheels. I currently have plastic hub rings and they did help with vibrations (I think) but I think I made a mistake of doing plastic when I should've just gone for the high quality aluminum ones. Not that the plastic ones don't do what they are suppose to but plastics can break and melt(?)... ehhh few others I know are fine with them too but I'm just worried they're going to cause issue later on...
I have TE37's so they are also 73.1 diameter wheels. I currently have plastic hub rings and they did help with vibrations (I think) but I think I made a mistake of doing plastic when I should've just gone for the high quality aluminum ones. Not that the plastic ones don't do what they are suppose to but plastics can break and melt(?)... ehhh few others I know are fine with them too but I'm just worried they're going to cause issue later on...
#516
Thread Starter
^ appreciate it!
I have TE37's so they are also 73.1 diameter wheels. I currently have plastic hub rings and they did help with vibrations (I think) but I think I made a mistake of doing plastic when I should've just gone for the high quality aluminum ones. Not that the plastic ones don't do what they are suppose to but plastics can break and melt(?)... ehhh few others I know are fine with them too but I'm just worried they're going to cause issue later on...
I have TE37's so they are also 73.1 diameter wheels. I currently have plastic hub rings and they did help with vibrations (I think) but I think I made a mistake of doing plastic when I should've just gone for the high quality aluminum ones. Not that the plastic ones don't do what they are suppose to but plastics can break and melt(?)... ehhh few others I know are fine with them too but I'm just worried they're going to cause issue later on...
And as far as the vibration, I am no engineer but I definitely don't buy the argument that wheels that use conical lugs completely negate the need to have the wheel mount flush with the center of the hub. Not after feeling the difference with and without, being extremely careful in how the wheel was mounted without the rings and how the lugs were torqued. The stock spherical shaped Honda lug nuts perform the exact same task of making sure the wheel stud hole is perfectly centered on the wheel stud. If anything the hub ring guarantees that the wheel remains perfectly centered on the hub up to the moment the lugs are fully torqued, which usually means lowering the car onto the ground to torque to spec, which starts to put weight on the hub or lugs before they are torqued to spec.
It is the tiniest details that add up to make a car that you can drive with absolute full confidence. The guys that say they aren't necessary just get used to tuning out the slight vibration in my opinion. Or they are much better at carefully installing wheels and lug nuts than I am. I know many hardcore track guys that mount new tires often enough that they don't even have the wheels balanced and just deal with the vibration. My basic theory when it comes to cars and engineering is whenever someone tells me, "this is how i've always done it and I've never had issues..", I stop listening, because that isn't an actual explanation. I could be 100% wrong in my thinking and explanation and would be happy to have someone tell me why it is wrong if it is, but my simple testing gave me an answer.
And shit... thanks to you asking the question about the rings I found this Rays Engineering air pressure gauge and I am pretty sure I neeeeeeed it.
#519
Thread Starter
I made them on http://miadidas.com
Not exactly the shoes in the movie, these are based off the Samba.
Not exactly the shoes in the movie, these are based off the Samba.
#520
Thread Starter
About $110, comes with a nice bag. I'm guessing any shop that works with Mackin could order one up.
The holes around the sides are there to protect the gauge if it is dropped or something.
Have to be able to convert kPa to psi or learn what kPa you like your tires at. I am pretty happy with my simple $40 Moroso gauge, it has been really accurate comparing to higher end gauges and nice and consistent.