What do you use to transport your tools when working on it in your garage? In the same living situation and have been leaving the jack behind the car but I don't think management will take to kindly to having jack stands, tool boxes etc. (granted this will be for similar tasks - brakes, suspension adjustment, maybe oil changes)

 

The bottom of your car looks so clean

 

The HFC will give the exhaust some more sound over the OEM cat, but it eliminates pretty much all of the rasp. I've put about 100 miles on mine so far and I don't have any rasp at all and it's paired with a 63mm Berk HFC.

 

That's odd. My berk made it a lot raspier just before the vtec engagement point.
Although mine is 70mm berk.. but still strange that a few mm would be so different.

 

That's odd. My berk made it a lot raspier just before the vtec engagement point.
Although mine is 70mm berk.. but still strange that a few mm would be so different.
[/quote]

What exhaust do you have? I'm talking about the Powerhouse Amuse Dual Euro 60mm.

It's worth noting that the Amuse Euros have resonators in both OEM locations. (The large resonator and the Helmholtz) I've seen/heard exhausts without both of these resonators respond better with test pipes, but on exhausts that have both resonators the HFC mellows everything out. I can only assume it's because the Helmholtz is tuned to cancel a specific frequency of sound and removing the cat from in front of the exhaust changes the incoming sound enough that the Helmholtz ends up doing more harm than good.

 

Jack, 2 jack stands, and 2 ramps fit on the bottom part of the cart no problem. I keep this cart in my coat closet since I don't really need coats. Even added a little shelf for extra storage.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

 

Yeah I am not sure how this happens, I have never even attempted to clean it.

 

That's odd. My berk made it a lot raspier just before the vtec engagement point.
Although mine is 70mm berk.. but still strange that a few mm would be so different.
[/quote]

What exhaust do you have? I'm talking about the Powerhouse Amuse Dual Euro 60mm.

It's worth noting that the Amuse Euros have resonators in both OEM locations. (The large resonator and the Helmholtz) I've seen/heard exhausts without both of these resonators respond better with test pipes, but on exhausts that have both resonators the HFC mellows everything out. I can only assume it's because the Helmholtz is tuned to cancel a specific frequency of sound and removing the cat from in front of the exhaust changes the incoming sound enough that the Helmholtz ends up doing more harm than good.
[/quote]

I am looking into HKS and SARD hi-flow cats. Good information on the actual flow rates and much wider transition into the catalyzer mesh than the tiny little universal cat on the Berk.

I don't think the helmholtz has anything to making things raspy at all. My Amuse Euro 60mm with helmholtz didn't really have any raspiness with a 60mm test pipe. Not compared to the EVS. The EVS 70mm with no helmholtz and 60mm or 70mm test pipe both produce a good amount of rasp on the VTEC crossover. I think the helmholtz mainly is quieting down the exhaust at lower rpms and if anything it probably helps reduce raspiness. The EVS is much louder down low. With the OEM cat the EVS has absolutely no rasp and is significantly quieter at high or low rpm, and cruising speeds is a little bit quieter.

With any type of cat it is going to act similar to a resonator and generally quiet things down. I am actually kind of curious about the effects of adding a 90 degree helmholtz to the EVS and see how it sounds with a test pipe. My guess is that I would still get some rasp but it would quiet down at lower rpms a bit.

 

I think living in California plays a pretty big role.

 

Just for anyone that comes across it and finds it useful. Tons of bullshit and misinformation around the forums on emissions testing readiness codes. The Owners manual has a pretty simple guide to follow:

Testing of Readiness Codes
If you take your vehicle for a state emissions test shortly after the battery has been disconnected or gone dead, it may not pass the test. This is because of certain "readiness codes" that must be set in the onboard diagnostics for the emissions systems. These codes are erased when the battery is disconnected, and set again only after several days of driving under a variety of conditions.

If the testing facility determines that the readiness codes are not set, you will be requested to return at a later date to complete the test. If you must get the vehicle retested within the next two or three days, you can condition the vehicle for retesting by doing the following.

• Make sure the gas tank is nearly, but not completely, full (around 3/4).

• Make sure the vehicle has been parked with the engine off for 6 hours or more.

• Make sure the ambient temperature is between 40° and 95°F.

• Without touching the accelerator pedal, start the engine, and let it idle for 20 seconds.

• Keep the vehicle in Neutral. Increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm, and hold it there until the temperature gauge rises to at least 1/4 of the scale (about 3 minutes).

• Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50 to 60 mph (80 to 97 km/h) for at least 20 minutes. Drive on the highway in 5th. Do not use the cruise control. When traffic allows, drive for 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal. (Vehicle speed may vary slightly; this is okay.) If you cannot do this for a continuous 90 seconds because of traffic conditions, drive for at least 30 seconds, then repeat it two more times (for a total of 90 seconds).

• Then drive in city/suburban traffic for at least 10 minutes. When traffic conditions allow, let the vehicle coast for several seconds without using the accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.

If the testing facility determines the
readiness codes are still not set, see
your dealer.


I am using FlashPro to check readiness codes.