andrewhake

Yeah no problem, oh wait... is this a joke question? I don't answer joke questions. It was just a joke guys don't worry.

Actually now that you mention it there is a guy in the Bay Area with Nascar Brembo calipers on his S2000 so I will have him build everything for you and send you a $10,000 invoice.

andrewhake

Here's the basic idea for my chassis mounted brake duct flange combo. The idea here would be to have the duct mount up with brackets to the support underneath the headlights, and a button bracket just to the bottom of the fender liner itself since it should be strong enough. The duct obviously would like up with the bumper inlets (ideally be a little bit larger). The rear flange section would mount up to the fender liner and connect up to the hose, which would then connect to the rotor backing plates.



The only thing here that is to scale is the flange, everything else would have to be measured of course, but just wanted to see if I could come up with a rough idea that might work.

//steve\\

Looks awesome!

I wish the custom brackets and hat/rotor combo wouldn't make things so expensive. I know from my own looking you can find Nascar brembo/alcon/ap/ETC calipers on eBay all day long. The expensive part would be mounting and custom rotors. There are hardly any calipers though that look cooler than the Nascar brembos. They have always been one of my favorites. My concern would be that while it could be a cool setup they obviously aren't designed for the s2k so who knows what it would do for brake bias, is the master sized appropriately, etc.

I wonder how much more or less effective ducting like this is compared to going directly to the rotor? Obviously wheel clearance because much more of an issue in this case.

Ricky_Flowers_

Not a joke! Lol this could be a cost-effective solution, and braking performance will never again be in question. It's amazing how cheaply those calipers/pads/rotors can be had for.

WhyW

He wants Apple quality work for San Jose City College prices.

andrewhake

The problem with picking up some random used motorsports caliper is they are usually extremely wide. It is really just a matter of checking out the motorsports catalogs, and finding the calipers that might actually work with rotor sizes that would work on the S2000, around 300-355mm range. Ideally 320-330mm probably. And the rotor width and pad width and all that.

The pads on most of these calipers are also massive in terms of surface area and thickness, so they can be very expensive.

As cool as it is, all the fancy pad/caliper cooling stuff isn't really necessary on an S2000 track car.

andrewhake

Not a joke! Lol this could be a cost-effective solution, and braking performance will never again be in question. It's amazing how cheaply those calipers/pads/rotors can be had for.
[/quote]

I really know nothing about making custom brackets/hats unfortunately. I know people that do though. The key is finding a caliper that could reasonably work on a street car with appropriate sized rotors.

andrewhake

Old drivetrain parts!



AP2 flywheel weighs in at 21.0lbs vs. 14.2lb for the AP1 for a 6.8lbs savings.



The flywheel surface wasn't too terrible for 100,000 miles.



I weighed the bag that the AP1 flywheel came in for the sake of science. I measured it at .2lbs, the AP1 flywheel and bag at 14.4lbs, so 14.2lbs for AP1 flywheel.



As I mentioned before I also changed the guide as recommended on the Type One maintenance blog. Mine looks pretty good but it's a cheap part and seemed worthwhile from their explanation.



Same with the fork, this definitely shows some wear. My mindset in replacing these is that they are inexpensive, and may just make the clutch feel that much better with fresh parts.



And the release bearing.





From what I know about clutch disks, the wear on my seems pretty normal and seems to be right around the recommended spec for replacement. It sure is f@#king blue though isn't it? If I wasn't picky I am sure I could have driven on this for another 20,000 miles but the difference is pretty drastic with the Spoon pressure plate and AP1 flywheel. Being able to really quickly downshift is extremely important on narrow twisty roads. The AP1 flywheel makes driving this type of road easier and more fun. Instead of holding the car in gear awkwardly before braking, it is much easier to shift up and get on full power for that quick burst before braking hard, and it's just quicker to get down a gear with less effort and time required for rev matching down. When shifting up in 2nd at my 8400rpm redline with a solid quick shift the engine re-engages right at the 6000rpm sweet spot. When shifting up a little bit earlier it is still very easy to stay above the 5500rpm VTEC changeover. It is much easier to really nail an upshift now because of the extra flashes you get from the tachometer in redline. Instead of having to anticipate the 3 quick flashes you get more depending on which gear you are shifting up from. If you ever f@#k up and the engine drops into the 4,000rpm range, it growls at you in a way that shakes your very foundation and you will never let it drop below 5500rpm again. Unless you want to hear that growl again, that f@#king nasty growl.

The car is a lot more exciting to drive up hill now. You never feel like you get into any dead zones in the powerband after the FlashPro tune. The additional power is exactly where it needs to be for this type of driving. The car is so dialed right now on the 225/255 tires and alignment and I think I really have solved my clicking issue this time around. I am finally able to really push the car again. When my car is dialed and everything is working perfectly, I am a better human being.

If you have read this far, your reward is a glimpse at what it is like to drive the only S2000 with a stock exhaust that sounds like satan.

Dens2k152mph

Nice!!! So I saved 6lbs when switching over to a AP1 flywheel. I knew it was lighter but that's pretty good.

caleb2483

Awesome video! I'm running 225/255 setup too and so I'm going to try out your alignment specs. Never had fronts with more camber than the rear.
What is your handling characteristics like?