o_O S2000 | Mk I — Stage II
03-21-2015, 01:41 AM
#1481
Thread Starter
The CDV is a simple job you can do on your own, just plan it around a clutch fluid replacement. I also am interested in brake ducts for the front but the ASM carbon brake ducts for the 04 are pretty pricey so I'm gonna hold off for now. Is the square setup gonna be the Weds or Volks??
I just like that a chassis mounted setup could effectively work with any bumper with side ducting. I was actually looking into designing my own chassis mounted ducts, and I may still look into that if the APR ducts don't work out. Square setup will be both Weds and Volks.
03-21-2015, 01:55 AM
#1483
Thread Starter
In other news. I cleaned the my hubs, rotor hats, and wheel mounting surfaces to hell tonight in another attempt to cure my clicking issue. I also decided to try some different grease for the caliper slider pins. Using some 3M copper grease this time. The clicking is almost certainly just pad knock back, or build up of something between the hub, rotor hat, and wheel mounting surface. I did some digging and found some OEMs that had TSBs out for pretty much identical issues and all of the solutions were very thorough cleaning of the rotor hats and wheel mounting surface. I also decided to try running without the rotor mounting screws on the passenger side to see if it could be something silly like that. I just don't buy slotted rotor, pad knock back as being the cause, because it only happens with the wheel turned.
I was thinking it could be the aluminum hub centric rings but I already ruled those out by removing it from one side, and the clicking still remained. So I just thoroughly cleaned those and left them on.
As usual there is absolutely no sound after doing all this, so hopefully I will see good long term results this time. I did notice that the passenger side definitely had more build up that I cleaned off of the rotor had and wheel, and that was the side that was clicking louder this time, so maybe I am onto something.
The ramps I got are just the right size to let me get to the center jack point with some room to spare if the car goes lower.
(Yes I use jack stands on both side of the car). It is very easy to tell when the car is at the top of the ramp as well with these.
I was thinking it could be the aluminum hub centric rings but I already ruled those out by removing it from one side, and the clicking still remained. So I just thoroughly cleaned those and left them on.
As usual there is absolutely no sound after doing all this, so hopefully I will see good long term results this time. I did notice that the passenger side definitely had more build up that I cleaned off of the rotor had and wheel, and that was the side that was clicking louder this time, so maybe I am onto something.
The ramps I got are just the right size to let me get to the center jack point with some room to spare if the car goes lower.
(Yes I use jack stands on both side of the car). It is very easy to tell when the car is at the top of the ramp as well with these.
03-21-2015, 02:15 AM
#1484
Thread Starter
03-21-2015, 04:33 AM
#1486
Maybe you've already seen it or not but check out evasives FB page or kams (DARTV8R) Insta page for an idea on a chassis mounted brake duct bracket. He's running a voltex front bar but I'm sure the same principle can be applied
03-21-2015, 06:04 AM
#1487
03-21-2015, 11:54 AM
#1489
I actually have the AP2 wasp ducts, they are way to small to be useful with the Amuse bumper, and I don't think there is any good way to mount them to the chassis since they are so small, or the Amuse bumper for that matter. I would have installed them on my AP2 bumper a long time ago but I knew I was going to get the R1 bumper soon after so I never bothered.
For cutting the fender liners you really just need a hole large enough to fit the duct through, and you want it as low and too the inside as possible. And as they mentioned compressing the hose will most likely be necessary with 3" and 255s up front, but that is simple enough. I have a pretty good plan so hopefully it will all work out.
For cutting the fender liners you really just need a hole large enough to fit the duct through, and you want it as low and too the inside as possible. And as they mentioned compressing the hose will most likely be necessary with 3" and 255s up front, but that is simple enough. I have a pretty good plan so hopefully it will all work out.
not to belabor the issue, but you might want to browse the Summit, JEG's, & Racer Supply Warehouse sites. I did a while ago, as I searched for ducts to fab my own intake snorkel. They had some ducts might suit your needs. the infamous Circuit Garage guy actually has the nicest chassis mounted ducts i've seen. especially like his passenger side one that feeds his intake too.
cutting holes in the fender liners for the hoses won't be hard. it just would have been nice for APR to have included templates for cutting the liners or, moreso, the OEM bumper to mount the ducts. that was a little hairy.
03-21-2015, 11:59 AM
#1490
if you don't mind not having JDM Tomiokas or Cuscos, I got some low profile ramps from DiscountCarRamps.com. think i paid like 40-50 shipped. i honestly haven't used them much though. i find it easier to just drive up onto my tried and true landscaping stones. lol backing onto the ramps is little more tedious.