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o_O S2000 | Mk I — Stage II

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Old 01-31-2015, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by grubinski
I ran spherical bearings on my old Datsun 510, years ago. I think one of the major benefits is the lack of binding. You wouldn't get that benefit unless you ran all of them. Mugen or Spoon bushings would be *worse* than stock in that regard.

Yep. Another reason why doing just the the big compliance bearing on the front LCAs is intriguing. Changing out the rest just seems like overkill. The main thing is having them all preloaded at ride-height. Often skipped by many, prevents binding and premature wear of the bushings.
Old 01-31-2015, 06:00 PM
  #1352  

 
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Originally Posted by andrewhake
Originally Posted by grubinski' timestamp='1422759207' post='23489030
I ran spherical bearings on my old Datsun 510, years ago. I think one of the major benefits is the lack of binding. You wouldn't get that benefit unless you ran all of them. Mugen or Spoon bushings would be *worse* than stock in that regard.
Why would they be "worse"? They are rubber the same as OEM.

Orientation of the bushing. Perpendicular to the range of motion.
Old 01-31-2015, 06:08 PM
  #1353  

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Originally Posted by av8ter
Originally Posted by andrewhake' timestamp='1422759398' post='23489032
[quote name='grubinski' timestamp='1422759207' post='23489030']
I ran spherical bearings on my old Datsun 510, years ago. I think one of the major benefits is the lack of binding. You wouldn't get that benefit unless you ran all of them. Mugen or Spoon bushings would be *worse* than stock in that regard.
Why would they be "worse"? They are rubber the same as OEM.

Orientation of the bushing. Perpendicular to the range of motion.
[/quote]

Ah because it can't adjust it's orientation as much due to the stiffer rubber?
Old 01-31-2015, 06:15 PM
  #1354  

 
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Originally Posted by andrewhake
Originally Posted by av8ter' timestamp='1422759630' post='23489035
[quote name='andrewhake' timestamp='1422759398' post='23489032']
[quote name='grubinski' timestamp='1422759207' post='23489030']
I ran spherical bearings on my old Datsun 510, years ago. I think one of the major benefits is the lack of binding. You wouldn't get that benefit unless you ran all of them. Mugen or Spoon bushings would be *worse* than stock in that regard.
Why would they be "worse"? They are rubber the same as OEM.

Orientation of the bushing. Perpendicular to the range of motion.
[/quote]

Ah because it can't adjust it's orientation as much due to the stiffer rubber?
[/quote]

Essentially. Stiffer rubber will resist articulation more. Big deal? Probably not.
Old 01-31-2015, 07:37 PM
  #1355  

 
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^ as long as your preload the suspension before tightening anything, you'll be fine. Don't tighten all the bolts with your suspension in full droop.

Originally Posted by av8ter
Originally Posted by afzan' timestamp='1422746588' post='23488893
I think it took around them ~1 hours max (with the arms on the car) to complete both sides. While I was at it I replaced all the bolts/sleeves/cams/etc on the lower arms
Was wondering if this was doable but decided it wasn't worth the hassle. Can't imagine trying to push the bushings out any other way than on a press.
Inb4 anyone kills me, but I do this all the time. Air hammer the old one out, and air hammer the new one in by walking around the bushing and using a flat adapter so you don't damage anything.
Old 02-01-2015, 12:43 AM
  #1356  

 
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Originally Posted by andrewhake
Almost forgot to mention. I had quite the scare last night. It has been quite windy in the mountains lately. I did a quick run downhill on a short fun section, and no later than 30 seconds later on my way back up hill, and large branch had fallen from a tree with no real way for me to stop before it. Luckily I was able to find the right line and drive over part of it just barely to avoid any issues. That combined with the rest of the night having to dodge other little branches in the road definitely made for an interesting challenge.

I think I can say for sure now that I absolutely notice a difference in front downforce with the bumper and hood. Really interesting the effect it has on the car.
Yup it was SO randomly windy that night!
Old 02-01-2015, 01:53 AM
  #1357  

 
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I'm interested to see what route you go. I'm at 90500 miles right now and trying to figure out what i'm going to do with my bushings as well.

Any other big maintenance items you're going to address? Apparently the timing chain is a suggested 100K miles service item... I'm going to wait another 20K miles.
Old 02-01-2015, 02:01 AM
  #1358  

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Originally Posted by Bullwings
I'm interested to see what route you go. I'm at 90500 miles right now and trying to figure out what i'm going to do with my bushings as well.

Any other big maintenance items you're going to address? Apparently the timing chain is a suggested 100K miles service item... I'm going to wait another 20K miles.
I may pick up a TCT just as preventative maintenance. I wouldn't mind doing a Toda timing chain and TCT, but it is probably overkill with a stock valve train?

New clutch parts will be going on soon as well, so it will mainly just be clutch/flywheel and suspension refresh. Is there anything else recommended at 100k? I am already on top of most of the things that seem to be recommended.

I will be doing baffled oil pan and fresh spark plugs as well.
Old 02-01-2015, 02:07 AM
  #1359  

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Billman from another thread:

Originally Posted by Billman250
good 100k tip: Remove the serp belt, and spin the tensioner pulley by hand. Also spin the one below it. If they are noisy/dry, replace them.

you could replace the bearing, but it will be difficult to source.
Just checking out the service manual, there are plenty of areas that call for grease, any particular grease recommended by anyone for these areas using multi-purpose grease?
Old 02-01-2015, 05:51 AM
  #1360  
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I would recommend the powerflex poly bearing. Its the best of both worlds IMO. A spherical metal bearing will give you free range of motion with no toe change, but will click clank and make all kinds of noise and harshness. I agree with everyone else that the spoon/mugen compliance bushing is a bad idea for compliance. It doesn't matter how you torque it its range of motion isnt affected. It will effectively add spring rate to the front of your car and resist drooping promoting skipping over bumps.

The Powerflex bearing is made in the same fashion of a metal spherical, but the cup and ball are made of poly. You get all the benefits of free range of motion, no or very little dynamic toe, with no noise. You will admittedly will have some degree of deflection compared to full metal bearing, but compared to even a mugen bushing way less.

Ive had them in my car for a year and have had zero issues.

http://powerflexusa.com/hondas2000fr...pff25-203.aspx


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