I would as well. There is just something about the noise and experience of it all. I feel like the ITBs somehow are the natural progression of the spirit of this car. It enhances all the things I enjoy and love about the platform. I was happy with my last set up, but I always wanted to go all out and make it as OEM as I possibly could. I am trying my best to put together the best and most complete ITB set up I can.

I don't think converting to throttle cable is anything more than adding a cable. Once you go to the ITBs you are replacing the throttle and the ecu anyway. I know someone else is working on this right now.

 

I’ve been trying to find out what exactly does the conversion require, but haven’t had much luck. Please share if the guy manages to get it to work.

 

9.22.2022 - Fuel System Final Install

After having to hack up the bracket to hold the fuel pump in I was unhappy with its appearance. I took my own advice from earlier and picked up a new bracket, and shaved the tabs off of the pump hanger itself. This way I can rotate it however I need to with zero modification to the oem bracket, and once everything is tightened the assembly is held so tight it can't rotate.







New set up installed:



One with the new fuel line attached:



Getting the AN line onto the plastic hangar was far more difficult that I imagined. I couldn't get it on by hand no matter how hard I tried, even with using a bit of wehite lithium grease to help it along. To solve the problem I ended up having to remove the entire assembly from the car again, take the line apart, and use a rubber mallet and grease to seat the fitting all the way down onto the pump. Thankfully there is enough room in the car to retighten the line after the assembly is fully installed.

Next up are some pictures of the rest of the fuel system after install. You'll notice in a few of the pictures I had the brackets that held the OEM lines powdercoated, and the rear one I modified as it doesn't need to hold the charcoal canister anymore.









This last pic is from today, and you can see some more details of the system. The little blocx there is part of what Origin made to go along with anything. It takes the main line that feeds into the throttles and T's off a section for the fuel pressure sensor.

 

8.8.2022 - Brake Hardline Relocation

As I was going through the kit Origin sent me I had a few D clamps and this black washer I didn't know what to do with. I was seemingly able to install everything so far but I couldn't figure out where these were supposed to go. I gave Mark a call and this stuff was designed to take the brake hard line that runs against the firewall, and move it back to sit flush against the firewall.

I can't find a picture of it but from the factory the brake line is secured by two large push clips that protrude about an inch off of the firewall. Removal was a pain in the ass and involved destroying the clips. From there the small D claps are wrapped around the brake line and secured against the firewall with the nylon piece. The problem is that the studs they are secured to aren't threaded with a normal pitch, they are designed to have push clips secured to them.

The way I managed to get them to fit was to take a socket and the nylon fitting and put them into my vice. I tightened it down just enough to push the nylon piece into the socket. From there I used a couple of long extensions and a ratchet and was able to put all my weight against the stud and fastened it on. The next issue I ran into was how to get the one behind the engine secured. What I ended up coming up with was removing the fitting I had attached and hoped that it had threaded itself enough that I could get it onto the stud behind the engine by hand. It ended up working and I was able to get it spun on most of the way by hand. I need to completely secure it once I take the valve cover off and the stuff out of the head to do the cams. For the other side I did it again the same way as I did originally.





This last picture is of all of the washers I found stacked behind the upper heater hard line after removing it for powdercoat. I have no clue why the previous owner would have spaced this thing out like this.

 

8.31.2022 - Vacuum System

With the way the Toda's are set up you can purchase their ISCV (or come up with your own solution) and easily run two separate vacuum systems. My vacuum system was one of my bigger learning experiences on my previous set up and I really wanted the dual approach to to square things away this time.

In the instructions Toda suggests just running your brake booster into the #4 runner. I have talked to a few people running this approach and they say it works fine and had zero issues. I've also heard from someone running this setup that they ran into problems while tuning due to the vacuum not being even across the cylinders due to #4 being run directly to the brake booster. That made sense to me, and I figured while I had everything off of the car I would come up with a solution that allowed me to plumb all four runners into a block and then distribute vacuum that way.

The first step was setting up the lines for the ISCV. These lines are designed to be plugged into the nipples that run along the edge of the manifold flange. The only issue here is that the nipples on the manifold are a different size than the nipples on the ISCV. Apparently the ISCV tube is designed to work with the K series setup. Toda sells it to you with instructions to zip tie it down for the F series. Mark at Origin modified mine to mount parallel with the fuel rail, added a custom angled pipe, and a bracket to mount the IACV control unit to the firewall. With that all in place all I had to do was source the vacuum lines to connect the two. I ended up using some off the shelf 7/32" vacuum tubing that did the trick. It's very tight on the manifold section, you're going to stretch and ruin the line when you remove it, and secure on the IACV side. I'll include the part number at the end.

The only real challenge I came across with these is getting everything to fit with an equal length. It doesn't seem to matter much though. When I cut all the lines they were equal on all four. Due to the way the IACV mounts the distances from each point on each runner to the flange is different. The front line seems to be the shortest. Once it was all mounted on the car I noticed that the line had a bit too much length and due to the nature of how the bends shape it, it had a pinch. I've trimmed it down a few times to get it perfect with no issues. Once it's all mounted in the car it looks perfect, almost like it was supposed to come this way.

One the same line we have the MAP sensor. I had Origin add a fitting to the pipe he made for me so that I could run off of the IACV system over to the MAP sensor. I know it's not typically used much with an ITB car but I figured preserving it couldn't hurt. I also had him put it on the extension elbow because it would be largely hidden and if I decided to remove it completely a cap would clean it up and be virtually invisible. The new MAP sensor mounts to a vacuum block that is part of the package that Origin did for me. It's a K series map sensor, and it mounts in the engine bay at the bottom directly below the ABS unit utilizing an OEM hole.







The other vacuum system was more of a pain in the ass. The biggest hurdle is that unlike all of the other ITB kits the Toda kit puts the throttle cable from underneath and has a bracket that sticks out between the number two and three runners to mount it to. This unfortunately blocks the spot that all of the other vacuum blocks mount. You can put them elsewhere, but I was hoping to come up with a contained system that I could attach to the manifold itself. This picture gives you an idea of the room that you have to work with behind the bracket. Keep in mind those coolant hoses are not attached and are pushed back a bit. Once they are installed you have even less.



After digging around into all the different vacuum block solutions I settled on a block from Motion Raceworks. I had messaged them asking for measurements and dimensions and they quickly got back to me. I figured one way or another I could make it work. The block ended up fitting into the little recess that I wanted to use. Here you can see how I managed to fit it behind everything before I made the bracket. My thought here was to just mount it directly where it is, but with how tight it fit and the nature of the 1/4 NPT cap I had to install on that side of the block it didn't fit.




Here you can see how I ended up having to space it out utilizing a bracket.



The vacuum block itself needed to be secured on the other side. I was hesitant to leave it only secured from one side as I thought it might vibrate and end up damaging something. What I really wanted to do was to come up with a solution that would allow me to attach the vacuum block to the manifold itself so that it was all a contained system. I was trying to mount the vacuum system behind the throttle linkage bracket and once everything was in the car the room to assemble something like this and make sure all thee vacuum lines are fully seated is difficult. I ended up taking the bracket off and heading to my local ACE hardware store. I figured I could scrounge up enough random parts to mock something up. One I found what I was looking for I went home and assembled it all to test out. It was ugly but it worked. Then I had a buddy help me come up with a nicer looking solution that should be a bit stronger and has less bolts. Unfortunately due to how it all mounts it's very difficult to measure when it's on the car, but we got everything close enough that I just had to open up or add a few holes with a drill and it all fit perfectly.

Prototype Bracket:





Final Bracket:







Next was fittings. The Toda manifold is tapped as a 1/8 BSPT and I found it incredibly hard to find nice, push-lock, stainless steel fittings in that size. I ended up finding them from a Canadian Pneumatic company. I also figured while I was at it I would order the 1/8 NPT fittings that I would need for the other side. I ended up having to put in a second order because as I played with the layout of the lines I ended up having to revise the line placement several times due to various issues.

Finally vacuum lines. I ordered a long roll of tubing (it was the smallest they had) from the same company. I'm going to skip a bunch of the iterations I went though, but to summarize there was five to six different layouts that I had gone through during this process. I was convinced each one would work until I went to try it on the car, and as I added more parts and tried to figure out how to mount the vacuum block I had to change it up. My last set up that I was confident would work fit in the car with everything mocked up and I was ready to move on. I was talking to a buddy who asked about the heat capacity of the lines and when I looked it was only 160F. As these lines sole purpose was to provide vacuum to the brake booster I decided that I wasn't willing to risk something getting kinked or melting. I ended up reaching out to a few pneumatic distributors, explained what I was doing and asked for a product recommendation. They sent me a link to tubing that's good for temperatures up to 200c. That's more than enough and overkill felt like the correct move for this part. It was expensive though, around $200 for 20ft of tubing. Once I got the tubing I quickly noticed that it wasn't nearly as flexible as the other tubing, so I had to go back to the drawing board with my design. I'm happy with what I settled. With the way it's set up now, everything is equal length, symmetrical, and had no hard bends. Each line is basically a big C.







Finally it was the brake booster line. This was pretty simple. With the block securely mounted to the manifold I could remove it, confirm I could run a line off the back, and then connect it to the brake booster. I used a combination of different lines to do this, but basically I kept the OEM brake booster line, clipped of the last 1/2 where it makes the horizontal 90 degree turn to connect to the intake manifold. I got fancy and ordered some custom shaped hoses so that it looks perfect but that's completely unnecessary. I have the fittings to join the lines, and the fitting to connect the line to the vacuum block listed below.



Overall I am incredibly pleased with how this came out. The system is exactly what I wanted it to be. It seems to work perfectly, it looks like it belongs, all the lines are even, everything is more than adequate to handle the heat in the engine bay, and it's all self contained. The only thing I'll warn you is that if you are running the OEM knock sensor that this probably wont work. I switched out to a Bosch unit for my set up, which I'll get into next. This post consolidated a ton of work into a few pictures and paragraphs. This was by far one of the longer parts of putting this set up together for my specific goals. Once it's installed on the car you can't see any of it.

-----

Parts List

IACV Vacuum Hoses: MasterPro #WV0732
Vacuum Block: https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...pr_seq=uniform
1/8 BSPT Vacuum Fittings: https://www.mettleair.com/store/ptc/...bspt-male.html
1/8 NPT Vacuum Fittings: https://www.mettleair.com/store/ptc/...bspt-male.html
Vacuum Lines: https://www.smcpneumatics.com/TH0604B-20.html
Brake Booster Line Connectors: https://www.mcmaster.com/5058K151/
1/4 NPT Barbed Fitting: https://www.mcmaster.com/5361K36/

 

11.02.2022 - LINK ECU

Not much to talk about here. After a ton of research and recommendations form several people I ended up going with the link G4X Plug and Play ECU for the AP1. The only thing that's not plug and play is that you need to clearance an area within the OEM case to get the new board to fit. That's about it.

I also purchased the LINK CAN 02 sensor and module as well as the adapter plug to plug this straight into the board. I needed to add some holes to the case somewhere to add additional lines, so I did it through the top of the face plate. If I had to do it again I'd probably run them through the dies of the case itself next time so it looks cleaner. Otherwise this was pretty cut and dry. Since this photo was taken I'd added a second connector coming out of the ECU that plugs into the expansion harness. With it set up this way I can just install the enclosed ECU into the car, and then connect the extra sensors through the jumpers. I don't need to deal with unscrewing the faceplate and trying to plug it all in while it's mounted up in the footwell.



11.10.2022 - Wiring Harness

There were enough sensor differences that I originally wanted to have a new harness created. I was talked out of it by a few people, so I went out and bought the tools to refurbish and movify my own harness while I was out of the car. I had removed it to make my life easier while I was mocking everything up.

All the tools showed up, and I sat down to start working on my car. I had forgotten that way back when I bought this car it had been modified by the previous owner. As I started removing the sheathing from the OEM harness I noticed that the harness had been cut and spliced all over the place. Sometimes multiple times along the same line. All of the injector lines had multiple cuts and repairs as well as 2-3 other lines. I figured the best way to repair each line was to order wire and attempt to remove all of the cuts and repair everything properly. Once I started looking into wiring and trying to figure out what I needed and then wanted to keep the OEM color codes on the wires so I could keep it straight I felt like I was in over my head.







I ended up speaking to several different people who make wiring harnesses. I found several of them incredibly difficult to work with or even get information out of. I'm not very good with wiring or electronics and I had a lot of questions. I ended up submitting a deposit with one company who was very difficult to get information out of. Even after putting the deposit down it felt like pulling teeth to get answers to the specific questions I had. I ended up taking my questions to the LINK ECU forums and received an in depth reply from someone who was a LINK dealer, tuner, specialized in wiring, and was familiar with S2000s. After a few hours of conversation I ended up canceling my order with the original place less than 24 hours after I placed it. The original company informed me that they had "done a significant amount of work" in less than 24 hours after I put in the order so I ended up eating a significant chunk of money. It is what it is, and it all ended up working out mostly for the best.

AERaceFab is who ended up making my harness for me as well as doing this first round of tuning. He worked with me to make sure I had all the sensors I needed accounted for, as well as make a few revisions to my original game plan. I'm going to attach the list of the sensors that I ended up running and their locations in case it helps someone down the road who wants to do a similar setup.



A few pictures of the completed harness:

 

11.13.2023 - New Sensors & Locations

Quick rundown of the new and relocated sensors and where they are going to live.

IAVC: Part of the Toda ISCV Kit. This whole kit was extensively modified by Origin Fabrication to fit how it does.Originally this whole set up is for the K series and comes with some zip ties to hold it down. Mark ended up studding the vacuum tube so it could be hard mounted, and then fabricated the elbow and support brackets for the IACV control unit could be mounted and hidden against the fire wall. I also had him add a fitting on the elbow to run a vacuum line to the MAP sensor.





TPS: Mounted to the manifold facing the firewall.



MAP: New vacuum block was created for the MAP. Mounted in the lower portion of the engine bay on an existing threaded hole.



Fuel Pressure: Mounted above the MAP sensor, behind the ABS unit, closer to the cabin.



Knock Sensor: Final position had the connector pointed towards the firewall.



Throttle Cables: Cruise Control follows a fairly standard path. Throttle cable itself gets looped down into the bay, and then comes up and connects to the throttle linkage bracket between the number two and three runners. It is secured next to the cruise control on the ABS unit using D clamps, and then again underneath on the side of the engine bay using a D clamp and an existing hole. NOTE: This picture is showing an early version of the Fuel Pressure location, this is not the final location.



Oil Temp & Pressure: This is a Bosch dual sensor that handles both functions. The OEM dummy pressure sensor was pulled and Origin Fabrication created a line that mounts off of the block and allowed me to run an extension line to the new sensors. He also created the new mounting bracket you see for the sensor itself. This way I never have to mess with the threads on the block again, and the sensor isn't vibrating off the side of the block. I ended up using a different sensor than what he and I originally had and needed to find a connector. I ended up sourcing a Fragola connector to turn the -3 fitting on his line to the inverted flare metric fitting I needed for the new sensor.

You'll also notice the Vtec oil pressure sensor was removed. I learned that this sensor isn't utilized on the JDM vehicles and does not get utilized with aftermarket ECUs. S2KandtheAnt provided me with the Honda part numbers for the bolt and O ring they use to block it off from the factory.

I also sanded down and painted the Vtec solenoid. It looks awful and dated compared to the rest of the car so I refinished it. I did it in a flat black primer originally but it stood out to me as being modified and didn't sit right. I ended up going over that with the Steel It that I had bought to do my brake calipers and was much happier with that result.







IAT: This is a motorsports sensor that was recommended by7 Origin Fabrication. He incorporated the mounting location into the intake arm that he built for me. I prefered this solution rather than having to modify the TODA surge tank.

 

11.18.2022 - Final Install

With the harness in hand, everything planned out, and all the supporting items like the fuel system already installed in the car everything went back in for final install in an afternoon. If I had to do it all over again I could have done the entire project in a weekend if everything was in front of me ready to go. I'm glad I took my time and really planned out everything down to the smallest detail. It ended up paying off pretty dramatically.

The OEM harness has a support bracket on the back of the motor, which I removed after pulling the OEM harness. Once I had the new harness in place I wanted to support it vertically so it wasn't pulling down and applying tension to any of the connectors. I settled on using a D clamp to secure it on the back of the engine head using a 10mm bolt and a hole that was previously used by that support bracket. This was hands down one of the hardest things I did. Getting a D clamp of the appropriate size, the bolt, and a ratchet back there while keeping everything lined up, finding the hole completely blind, and applying enough force to smash it all together to thread it in probably took me 2-3 hours itself. That was a nightmare. I ended up googling pictures of motors out of the car so I could get an idea of where the threaded hole actually was, and staring at that while I worked. The harness is secured in another 2-3 places with D clamps so it's not moving at all. I ended up taking a razor blade to the firewall grommet off of the OEM harness. I sliced it across the bottom, and then applied it to the new harness once it was installed. I did it backwards by pressing it in from the cabin side, so that the longer portion would wrap around the harness, and I could electrical tape, and then zip tie it so it wouldn't be visible.





There isn't much more to say here. I'll add some photos of everything going back in the car, and a couple detailed pics of how tight everything is back against the firewall. There is a lot of stuff relocated back there, but it all fits and clears and looks like it belongs.













The last thing I'll note is that when the carbon surge tank is installed the backing plate is secured with the same hardware that holds the trumpets on. In the worst case scenario of one of these coming loose the hardware can be ingested by the engine with catastrophic results.This has happened to more than a few people. So when everything went in for the final time, all of those bolts were thoroughly tightened and secured using medium strength oil resistant Loctite. They were also paint penned for visual inspection.

 

11.19.2022 - Toda Oil Pan

Next up is the Toda oil pan. I bought this years ago and it had been sitting with everything else in storage. I decided it was time to install it. While it was out all of the hardware for the oil pan was wire wheeled and cleaned.





Nothing special here. I capped the sensor hole that comes on the pan with the fitting that came from Toda. I was originally going to add a temperature sensor into the pan but instead went with the combined sensor that I mentioned earlier. I had a hell of a time with the Hondabond. That stuff is so stubborn and thick I blew out the back of the tube trying to squeeze a spaghetti sized strand out. I ended up ordering a metal tube roller off of Amazon, let the back of the tube cure up and seal itself, and presto. I was able to lay the thinnest, most OCD perfect bead all around the oil pan that you have ever seen. I should have taken a picture but I didn't. If you are going to swap and oil pan I strongly recommend one of these metal tube rollers. It makes the job and absolute breeze.

 

I appreciate you posting a detailed explanation of the problems you've encountered and their solutions!

Maybe one day you can install a TODA itb for my car?