Chris_Lum's Mugen build
06-12-2015, 07:27 AM
#1051
Thread Starter
Glad I have a Bouford approved setup, must be legit!!! 
Whatever you say boss!!
No, you’re absolutely correct—there’s nothing wrong with Spoon. In fact, I actually really like and respect Spoon parts—they make/offer a lot of good stuff that Mugen doesn’t make like the Gusset plates, rigid collars, full Spoon engine…to name a few. These days, ever since Mugen became M-Tec, I feel like Spoon is obviously the better company…but don’t tell Mugen I said that! Haha Mugen just seems to just make OEM-ish aero kits now. They used to make strut bars, sway bars, hard bushings, baffled oil pans, etc…..much more track oriented stuff, but I guess their focus has changed since the old days. =/
Thank you!
There was actually someone that modified an ASM spoiler to accept the OEM 3rd brake light. It just showed the LED part of the spoiler, but looked REALLY good. A part of me wants to buy a fake spoiler so I can test it out and make a plan to modify my genuine one, but seems like a lot of work. For now, my ghetto brake light is good enough for me and in the future, I might change to a different spoiler that can use the 3rd brake light. Either a Mugen SS wing or back to a Tamon duckbill because I still miss that look!
Flywheel: I’ve honestly never seriously considered buying the Ap1 flywheel because it’s basically the same price as the ACT flywheels (comparing Majestic prices to eBay). There’s about a $10 difference, and actually after you pay for shipping and handlng from Majestic, the OEM will probably be more expensive. The weights are roughly:
ACT Prolite flywheel: 8.1 lbs
ACT Streetlite flywheel: 11.2lbs
AP1 flywheel: ~14lbs
AP2 flywheel: ~21lbs
I’ve run the prolite flywheel on 2 separate applications now and NEVER had a problem with drivability or reliability. If I did have problems, then it wouldn’t be worth it but seeing as how the flywheel works perfectly (for me), I see no reason not to get the 8.1lb flywheel. I save 12.9lbs too! At the very least, I would get the streetlite flywheel as it’s a solid 10lbs lighter than the Ap2. Maybe some people just prefer OEM parts or are just scared out of aftermarket units due to “stories?” Honestly, I can’t remember hearing story of someone who didn’t like the ACT flywheel…seems like people just stray away from it because they think they might have problems with it but haven’t even tried it yet.
That being said, it could be my driving style too? If you shift slowly or drive like a grandma, I can see how it might cause problems. If you shift slowly, your RPMs will drop faster between gears which might make it harder to get into the next gear, requiring a rev match, but I rarely shift slow enough for that to happen. Also, I tend to rev match 95% of my downshifts, so I love the super responsive feel.
Other minor components: they were super minor, I’m talking about stuff that goes along with the new clutch fork, so “Hanger, Clutch Release” and “Spring, Release Hanger” as described by the Honda parts screen. They totally aren’t necessary, but were inexpensive, so I figured why not. I was going to get new flywheel bolts too, but it started to get pricey so I left those out. I think you’re on the right track…not much else can break/go wrong with this car. Definitely check your engine mounts if you haven’t replaced them yet--they are most likely torn and leaked orange fluid by 100K miles. You could do coil packs if you have money to burn
. You could also get a new thermostat since you’ll be doing the hoses. I’m undecided whether I want to do that now or just wait for mine to go out as I’ve heard they can last a long time.
Thank you!
thanks for info. you did a pretty good job. does look a lil "rough," but it's functional. i was thinking of doing something similar and adding an LED strip or aftermarket brake light to the edge ofy soft top window, but then it wouldn't be functional w/the top down.
another idea i had was to add a brakelight to the rear decklid/trunk area. i'm still debating whether to do a hardtop though. not sure if an OEM or Mugen would clear one put there. i bought my S for topdown cruising too. maybe i'll just ditch my ASM duckbill and get an OEM ap1 spoiler.
on a sidenote, couple questions about your new OEM/ACT clutch setup....
--did you ever consider doing an ap1 flywheel? i'm looking at doing a similar setup to yours, but have heard horror stories about aftermarket flywheels. i'm willing to sacrifice a pound or two to maintain drivability and reliability. a lot of people seem to like the ap1 unit.
--what other "minor refresh components" did you get? i'm about to hit 100k too, so trying to round up clutch parts and others you've done, incl a radiator & hoses. i also got a Billman GenX TCT. my OEM was still in good shape, but like you, just doing preventative maintenance.
oh, i did do an ap1 slave swap on my 06 ap2 a while ago. needed to replace my leaking clutch master cylinder, so figured i'd do the slave too. the CDV was annoying in my car. i like the ap1 slave a lot. really enhanced my driving experience.
another idea i had was to add a brakelight to the rear decklid/trunk area. i'm still debating whether to do a hardtop though. not sure if an OEM or Mugen would clear one put there. i bought my S for topdown cruising too. maybe i'll just ditch my ASM duckbill and get an OEM ap1 spoiler.
on a sidenote, couple questions about your new OEM/ACT clutch setup....
--did you ever consider doing an ap1 flywheel? i'm looking at doing a similar setup to yours, but have heard horror stories about aftermarket flywheels. i'm willing to sacrifice a pound or two to maintain drivability and reliability. a lot of people seem to like the ap1 unit.
--what other "minor refresh components" did you get? i'm about to hit 100k too, so trying to round up clutch parts and others you've done, incl a radiator & hoses. i also got a Billman GenX TCT. my OEM was still in good shape, but like you, just doing preventative maintenance.
oh, i did do an ap1 slave swap on my 06 ap2 a while ago. needed to replace my leaking clutch master cylinder, so figured i'd do the slave too. the CDV was annoying in my car. i like the ap1 slave a lot. really enhanced my driving experience.
Flywheel: I’ve honestly never seriously considered buying the Ap1 flywheel because it’s basically the same price as the ACT flywheels (comparing Majestic prices to eBay). There’s about a $10 difference, and actually after you pay for shipping and handlng from Majestic, the OEM will probably be more expensive. The weights are roughly:
ACT Prolite flywheel: 8.1 lbs
ACT Streetlite flywheel: 11.2lbs
AP1 flywheel: ~14lbs
AP2 flywheel: ~21lbs
I’ve run the prolite flywheel on 2 separate applications now and NEVER had a problem with drivability or reliability. If I did have problems, then it wouldn’t be worth it but seeing as how the flywheel works perfectly (for me), I see no reason not to get the 8.1lb flywheel. I save 12.9lbs too! At the very least, I would get the streetlite flywheel as it’s a solid 10lbs lighter than the Ap2. Maybe some people just prefer OEM parts or are just scared out of aftermarket units due to “stories?” Honestly, I can’t remember hearing story of someone who didn’t like the ACT flywheel…seems like people just stray away from it because they think they might have problems with it but haven’t even tried it yet.
That being said, it could be my driving style too? If you shift slowly or drive like a grandma, I can see how it might cause problems. If you shift slowly, your RPMs will drop faster between gears which might make it harder to get into the next gear, requiring a rev match, but I rarely shift slow enough for that to happen. Also, I tend to rev match 95% of my downshifts, so I love the super responsive feel.
Other minor components: they were super minor, I’m talking about stuff that goes along with the new clutch fork, so “Hanger, Clutch Release” and “Spring, Release Hanger” as described by the Honda parts screen. They totally aren’t necessary, but were inexpensive, so I figured why not. I was going to get new flywheel bolts too, but it started to get pricey so I left those out. I think you’re on the right track…not much else can break/go wrong with this car. Definitely check your engine mounts if you haven’t replaced them yet--they are most likely torn and leaked orange fluid by 100K miles. You could do coil packs if you have money to burn
. You could also get a new thermostat since you’ll be doing the hoses. I’m undecided whether I want to do that now or just wait for mine to go out as I’ve heard they can last a long time.
06-22-2015, 11:50 AM
#1054
Thread Starter
Posted up at C&C Aliso Viejo again this weekend to welcome Warren (WhyW's build thread) back to the U.S. for a visit!
His car is coming along quite nicely so far!
Butt shot with Areen (Veilside959's build thread)
Awesome shot by Nick Hur (NH512 photo)
His car is coming along quite nicely so far!
Butt shot with Areen (Veilside959's build thread)
Awesome shot by Nick Hur (NH512 photo)
They all look so delicious, especially the black one but don't quote me on that
06-22-2015, 12:25 PM
#1056
Moderator
06-22-2015, 12:44 PM
#1057
Originally Posted by Trustd_1' timestamp='1434099070' post='23645766
thanks for info. you did a pretty good job. does look a lil "rough," but it's functional. i was thinking of doing something similar and adding an LED strip or aftermarket brake light to the edge ofy soft top window, but then it wouldn't be functional w/the top down.
another idea i had was to add a brakelight to the rear decklid/trunk area. i'm still debating whether to do a hardtop though. not sure if an OEM or Mugen would clear one put there. i bought my S for topdown cruising too. maybe i'll just ditch my ASM duckbill and get an OEM ap1 spoiler.
on a sidenote, couple questions about your new OEM/ACT clutch setup....
--did you ever consider doing an ap1 flywheel? i'm looking at doing a similar setup to yours, but have heard horror stories about aftermarket flywheels. i'm willing to sacrifice a pound or two to maintain drivability and reliability. a lot of people seem to like the ap1 unit.
--what other "minor refresh components" did you get? i'm about to hit 100k too, so trying to round up clutch parts and others you've done, incl a radiator & hoses. i also got a Billman GenX TCT. my OEM was still in good shape, but like you, just doing preventative maintenance.
oh, i did do an ap1 slave swap on my 06 ap2 a while ago. needed to replace my leaking clutch master cylinder, so figured i'd do the slave too. the CDV was annoying in my car. i like the ap1 slave a lot. really enhanced my driving experience.
another idea i had was to add a brakelight to the rear decklid/trunk area. i'm still debating whether to do a hardtop though. not sure if an OEM or Mugen would clear one put there. i bought my S for topdown cruising too. maybe i'll just ditch my ASM duckbill and get an OEM ap1 spoiler.
on a sidenote, couple questions about your new OEM/ACT clutch setup....
--did you ever consider doing an ap1 flywheel? i'm looking at doing a similar setup to yours, but have heard horror stories about aftermarket flywheels. i'm willing to sacrifice a pound or two to maintain drivability and reliability. a lot of people seem to like the ap1 unit.
--what other "minor refresh components" did you get? i'm about to hit 100k too, so trying to round up clutch parts and others you've done, incl a radiator & hoses. i also got a Billman GenX TCT. my OEM was still in good shape, but like you, just doing preventative maintenance.
oh, i did do an ap1 slave swap on my 06 ap2 a while ago. needed to replace my leaking clutch master cylinder, so figured i'd do the slave too. the CDV was annoying in my car. i like the ap1 slave a lot. really enhanced my driving experience.
Flywheel: I’ve honestly never seriously considered buying the Ap1 flywheel because it’s basically the same price as the ACT flywheels (comparing Majestic prices to eBay). There’s about a $10 difference, and actually after you pay for shipping and handlng from Majestic, the OEM will probably be more expensive. The weights are roughly:
ACT Prolite flywheel: 8.1 lbs
ACT Streetlite flywheel: 11.2lbs
AP1 flywheel: ~14lbs
AP2 flywheel: ~21lbs
I’ve run the prolite flywheel on 2 separate applications now and NEVER had a problem with drivability or reliability. If I did have problems, then it wouldn’t be worth it but seeing as how the flywheel works perfectly (for me), I see no reason not to get the 8.1lb flywheel. I save 12.9lbs too! At the very least, I would get the streetlite flywheel as it’s a solid 10lbs lighter than the Ap2. Maybe some people just prefer OEM parts or are just scared out of aftermarket units due to “stories?” Honestly, I can’t remember hearing story of someone who didn’t like the ACT flywheel…seems like people just stray away from it because they think they might have problems with it but haven’t even tried it yet.
That being said, it could be my driving style too? If you shift slowly or drive like a grandma, I can see how it might cause problems. If you shift slowly, your RPMs will drop faster between gears which might make it harder to get into the next gear, requiring a rev match, but I rarely shift slow enough for that to happen. Also, I tend to rev match 95% of my downshifts, so I love the super responsive feel.
Other minor components: they were super minor, I’m talking about stuff that goes along with the new clutch fork, so “Hanger, Clutch Release” and “Spring, Release Hanger” as described by the Honda parts screen. They totally aren’t necessary, but were inexpensive, so I figured why not. I was going to get new flywheel bolts too, but it started to get pricey so I left those out. I think you’re on the right track…not much else can break/go wrong with this car. Definitely check your engine mounts if you haven’t replaced them yet--they are most likely torn and leaked orange fluid by 100K miles. You could do coil packs if you have money to burn
. You could also get a new thermostat since you’ll be doing the hoses. I’m undecided whether I want to do that now or just wait for mine to go out as I’ve heard they can last a long time.i will likely do the ACT PP, OEM clutch disc, and either the ACT or ap1 flywheel. i had considered the Competition Stage 2 clutch package, which is pretty much a steal at about $600 shipped, including lightened flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts, but i can't find enough reputable reviews on it. an SOS is an option too. i would love a more responsive clutch & flywheel combo, but i definitely don't want something that chatters or will be a pain to drive in traffic, esp the city. I live in SF, so a superlight flywheel or heavy pedal isn't going to fly. i had a 9 puck race clutch back in the day on one of my old cars. i managed, but not looking to do that again.
appreciate the other suggestions on maintenance items too. i think my motor mounts probably do need changing. i get quite a bit of vibration under load in the front and rear. need to swap out my axle cups or axles too. i just came back from Arizona, New Mexico, and Nevada, where it got up to 117 degrees. my temp gauge didn't budge, so i'll prob put off changing my thermostat until i find a good deal on a radiator.
06-22-2015, 06:26 PM
#1058
Thread Starter
those are among my favorites as well. I love profile shots of any S.been travelling, but thanks for additional info. my driving style is definitely not like Driving Miss Daisy. i used to be an on & off-track dragracer and occasional HPDE/trackday participant in my younger years. I've mellowed out a bit, but i still bang through the gears pretty aggressively. that's what motivated me to ditch the CDV on my S. it was just killing my driving experience. it's odd that it's so intrusive on some cars of the same or similar model years, but others are seemingly unaffected. then again, i've never driven anyone else's S, so i really don't have anything else to draw a comparison.
i will likely do the ACT PP, OEM clutch disc, and either the ACT or ap1 flywheel. i had considered the Competition Stage 2 clutch package, which is pretty much a steal at about $600 shipped, including lightened flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts, but i can't find enough reputable reviews on it. an SOS is an option too. i would love a more responsive clutch & flywheel combo, but i definitely don't want something that chatters or will be a pain to drive in traffic, esp the city. I live in SF, so a superlight flywheel or heavy pedal isn't going to fly. i had a 9 puck race clutch back in the day on one of my old cars. i managed, but not looking to do that again.
appreciate the other suggestions on maintenance items too. i think my motor mounts probably do need changing. i get quite a bit of vibration under load in the front and rear. need to swap out my axle cups or axles too. i just came back from Arizona, New Mexico, and Nevada, where it got up to 117 degrees. my temp gauge didn't budge, so i'll prob put off changing my thermostat until i find a good deal on a radiator.
i will likely do the ACT PP, OEM clutch disc, and either the ACT or ap1 flywheel. i had considered the Competition Stage 2 clutch package, which is pretty much a steal at about $600 shipped, including lightened flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts, but i can't find enough reputable reviews on it. an SOS is an option too. i would love a more responsive clutch & flywheel combo, but i definitely don't want something that chatters or will be a pain to drive in traffic, esp the city. I live in SF, so a superlight flywheel or heavy pedal isn't going to fly. i had a 9 puck race clutch back in the day on one of my old cars. i managed, but not looking to do that again.
appreciate the other suggestions on maintenance items too. i think my motor mounts probably do need changing. i get quite a bit of vibration under load in the front and rear. need to swap out my axle cups or axles too. i just came back from Arizona, New Mexico, and Nevada, where it got up to 117 degrees. my temp gauge didn't budge, so i'll prob put off changing my thermostat until i find a good deal on a radiator.
OH SF...i don't know how you drive your car there!! i just drove around SF for the first time two weekends ago and i was even scared to do stop and go on those hills in my automatic car!! I highly recommend the ACT pp and OEM disk. It honestly feels perfect. My time in the Ap1 felt good too, so i can see why people would go with the Ap1 flywheel as well. I think ACT pp, OEM disk and Ap1 flywheel would be a pretty solid setup
06-30-2015, 11:57 AM
#1059
Originally Posted by Trustd_1' timestamp='1435005859' post='23656565
been travelling, but thanks for additional info. my driving style is definitely not like Driving Miss Daisy. i used to be an on & off-track dragracer and occasional HPDE/trackday participant in my younger years. I've mellowed out a bit, but i still bang through the gears pretty aggressively. that's what motivated me to ditch the CDV on my S. it was just killing my driving experience. it's odd that it's so intrusive on some cars of the same or similar model years, but others are seemingly unaffected. then again, i've never driven anyone else's S, so i really don't have anything else to draw a comparison.
i will likely do the ACT PP, OEM clutch disc, and either the ACT or ap1 flywheel. i had considered the Competition Stage 2 clutch package, which is pretty much a steal at about $600 shipped, including lightened flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts, but i can't find enough reputable reviews on it. an SOS is an option too. i would love a more responsive clutch & flywheel combo, but i definitely don't want something that chatters or will be a pain to drive in traffic, esp the city. I live in SF, so a superlight flywheel or heavy pedal isn't going to fly. i had a 9 puck race clutch back in the day on one of my old cars. i managed, but not looking to do that again.
appreciate the other suggestions on maintenance items too. i think my motor mounts probably do need changing. i get quite a bit of vibration under load in the front and rear. need to swap out my axle cups or axles too. i just came back from Arizona, New Mexico, and Nevada, where it got up to 117 degrees. my temp gauge didn't budge, so i'll prob put off changing my thermostat until i find a good deal on a radiator.
i will likely do the ACT PP, OEM clutch disc, and either the ACT or ap1 flywheel. i had considered the Competition Stage 2 clutch package, which is pretty much a steal at about $600 shipped, including lightened flywheel and ARP flywheel bolts, but i can't find enough reputable reviews on it. an SOS is an option too. i would love a more responsive clutch & flywheel combo, but i definitely don't want something that chatters or will be a pain to drive in traffic, esp the city. I live in SF, so a superlight flywheel or heavy pedal isn't going to fly. i had a 9 puck race clutch back in the day on one of my old cars. i managed, but not looking to do that again.
appreciate the other suggestions on maintenance items too. i think my motor mounts probably do need changing. i get quite a bit of vibration under load in the front and rear. need to swap out my axle cups or axles too. i just came back from Arizona, New Mexico, and Nevada, where it got up to 117 degrees. my temp gauge didn't budge, so i'll prob put off changing my thermostat until i find a good deal on a radiator.
OH SF...i don't know how you drive your car there!! i just drove around SF for the first time two weekends ago and i was even scared to do stop and go on those hills in my automatic car!! I highly recommend the ACT pp and OEM disk. It honestly feels perfect. My time in the Ap1 felt good too, so i can see why people would go with the Ap1 flywheel as well. I think ACT pp, OEM disk and Ap1 flywheel would be a pretty solid setup
07-04-2015, 06:46 PM
#1060
Thread Starter
Happy July 4th!
I stayed in today and got some work done on the car. Planning to get back to the track later this year, so along with the clutch done last month, i decided to replace my OE 100K mi radiator and hoses. I think i can now hit the track with confidence that all of my maintenance items are taken care of and i won't be down due to a simple thing like a leaking radiator hose or cracked plastic end tank.
Eddie @ Gruppe-S helped me out as usual in getting me the new Koyo Hyper-V core radiator, Samco hoses and Spoon radiator cap. The new Hyper-V radiator is nice because it's only 36mm which i believe is the same-ish thickness as stock, but of course with better cooling technology. I remember the older thicker radiators would always cause issues here and there with clearance of the fans and other things made for stock radiator clearance, like turbo kit piping so it's nice that Koyo offers this radiator now. I went with black samco hoses because i wanted the hoses to be low-key and i had to go with the Spoon radiator cap because Mugen discontinued their large size cap that fits Koyo radiators. It's ok though, i secretly like the Spoon cap better because the Mugen just uses a printed sticker which can get damaged easily while the Spoon cap uses an emblem that is much more robust.
Install was straight forward, but a pita--of course because the hoses are hard to get to on the engine side.
Samco:
Koyo Install_002 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Koyo (packed very well):
Koyo Install_004 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Koyo Install_005 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Cool picture when I starting to drain the existing coolant. I actually had to attach a hose to the OE radiator drain because my Mugen bumper and bumper brace got in the way of the downward facing drain.
Koyo Install_009 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Koyo Install_010 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
It was a bitch to get to the upper radiator hose due to it's location right under the IM. I had to disconnect quite a few things hoses and a couple brackets just to get enough room to play around in there. I knew i wouldn't have enough room to get my hands in there to wrestle the hose off, so i just took he easy way and cut the hose off with a razor blade.
Koyo Install_012 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
One thing i wanted to share, which makes this job MUCH easier is making use of the ingenious way the OEM hose clamps are designed. They are able to stay open if pinched enough (it will catch on 2 prongs and stay put). This way, you don't have to wrestle them into position.
Koyo Install_015 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Once you have the clamp in position, just stick a flat head into the area shown and give it a 90° turn. The flathead will make the clamp jump the 2 prongs holding it in place and snap tight like a mouse trap.
Koyo Install_016 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Koyo with the OEM fans and fan switch installed.
Koyo Install_021 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
I purchased a Lisle "no-spill" radiator funnel (Amazon: Lisle No-Spill Funnel). Great product! it made bleeding the coolant a very simple and mess-free job.
Koyo Install_027 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Koyo Install_028 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Koyo Install_030 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Spoon cap to finish it off.
Koyo Install_036 by Chris Lum, on Flickr
Also got my car detailed last week by Alex (@neurotic_detailer on instagram). I've been detailing my car myself with a porter cable every once in a while, but i make it a point to get a professional to do it every so often as well. The last time i had a professional do it was 7 years ago. Alex was able to bring out the shine and i'm very happy with his work! Now the paint finish is like a mirror--which is how Berlina's should be.
Untitled by Chris Lum, on Flickr
by Chris Lum, on Flickr
by Chris Lum, on Flickr
I stayed in today and got some work done on the car. Planning to get back to the track later this year, so along with the clutch done last month, i decided to replace my OE 100K mi radiator and hoses. I think i can now hit the track with confidence that all of my maintenance items are taken care of and i won't be down due to a simple thing like a leaking radiator hose or cracked plastic end tank.
Eddie @ Gruppe-S helped me out as usual in getting me the new Koyo Hyper-V core radiator, Samco hoses and Spoon radiator cap. The new Hyper-V radiator is nice because it's only 36mm which i believe is the same-ish thickness as stock, but of course with better cooling technology. I remember the older thicker radiators would always cause issues here and there with clearance of the fans and other things made for stock radiator clearance, like turbo kit piping so it's nice that Koyo offers this radiator now. I went with black samco hoses because i wanted the hoses to be low-key and i had to go with the Spoon radiator cap because Mugen discontinued their large size cap that fits Koyo radiators. It's ok though, i secretly like the Spoon cap better because the Mugen just uses a printed sticker which can get damaged easily while the Spoon cap uses an emblem that is much more robust.
Install was straight forward, but a pita--of course because the hoses are hard to get to on the engine side.
Samco:
Koyo Install_002 by Chris Lum, on FlickrKoyo (packed very well):
Koyo Install_004 by Chris Lum, on FlickrKoyo Install_005 by Chris Lum, on FlickrCool picture when I starting to drain the existing coolant. I actually had to attach a hose to the OE radiator drain because my Mugen bumper and bumper brace got in the way of the downward facing drain.
Koyo Install_009 by Chris Lum, on FlickrKoyo Install_010 by Chris Lum, on FlickrIt was a bitch to get to the upper radiator hose due to it's location right under the IM. I had to disconnect quite a few things hoses and a couple brackets just to get enough room to play around in there. I knew i wouldn't have enough room to get my hands in there to wrestle the hose off, so i just took he easy way and cut the hose off with a razor blade.
Koyo Install_012 by Chris Lum, on FlickrOne thing i wanted to share, which makes this job MUCH easier is making use of the ingenious way the OEM hose clamps are designed. They are able to stay open if pinched enough (it will catch on 2 prongs and stay put). This way, you don't have to wrestle them into position.
Koyo Install_015 by Chris Lum, on FlickrOnce you have the clamp in position, just stick a flat head into the area shown and give it a 90° turn. The flathead will make the clamp jump the 2 prongs holding it in place and snap tight like a mouse trap.
Koyo Install_016 by Chris Lum, on FlickrKoyo with the OEM fans and fan switch installed.
Koyo Install_021 by Chris Lum, on FlickrI purchased a Lisle "no-spill" radiator funnel (Amazon: Lisle No-Spill Funnel). Great product! it made bleeding the coolant a very simple and mess-free job.
Koyo Install_027 by Chris Lum, on FlickrKoyo Install_028 by Chris Lum, on FlickrKoyo Install_030 by Chris Lum, on FlickrSpoon cap to finish it off.
Koyo Install_036 by Chris Lum, on FlickrAlso got my car detailed last week by Alex (@neurotic_detailer on instagram). I've been detailing my car myself with a porter cable every once in a while, but i make it a point to get a professional to do it every so often as well. The last time i had a professional do it was 7 years ago. Alex was able to bring out the shine and i'm very happy with his work! Now the paint finish is like a mirror--which is how Berlina's should be.
Untitled by Chris Lum, on Flickr by Chris Lum, on Flickr by Chris Lum, on Flickr