Semi slick tyres *again :-)
07-12-2005, 03:25 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by honda9krpm,Jul 13 2005, 07:10 AM
FYI (minor technical detail 
) the s2k is not in VTEC at stationary above 6krpm. Your car will only goes into vtec when the wheel spin.
) the s2k is not in VTEC at stationary above 6krpm. Your car will only goes into vtec when the wheel spin.
07-12-2005, 05:08 PM
#82
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nothing too technical at all RR
it's one of the parameter, along with a number of others, required for the ecu to fire off the vtec solenoid. Without this input the vtec solenoid is off. So at stationary you can still rev to 9krpm but the valves are using the normal cam and not vtec cam lobes.
it's one of the parameter, along with a number of others, required for the ecu to fire off the vtec solenoid. Without this input the vtec solenoid is off. So at stationary you can still rev to 9krpm but the valves are using the normal cam and not vtec cam lobes.
07-12-2005, 08:48 PM
#83
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Does anyone use the RE540S's as everyday tyres? I've seen the RE540S's on some Club cars and thought they may be a good road tyre. Anyone know how soft they are compared to std S-02's (treadwear 140)? What about the (newer) RE55S's?
I used to race production Commodore turbos and a Supra turbo (from '86-89) and always used the same Dunlop and Bridgestone R spec tyres as everyday tyres too. In the wet, in particular, they were lots better.
If the RE540S isn't a good road tyre, what can you recommend in the way of R-spec tyres for street use? I do know, in advance, that the RE540S won't be great for really wet surfaces...
I'm currently using std Honda-spec SO-2's and have gotten 20-24,000km from the first two sets. Tyre wear isn't a great concern to me, as much as outright grip.
I used to race production Commodore turbos and a Supra turbo (from '86-89) and always used the same Dunlop and Bridgestone R spec tyres as everyday tyres too. In the wet, in particular, they were lots better.
If the RE540S isn't a good road tyre, what can you recommend in the way of R-spec tyres for street use? I do know, in advance, that the RE540S won't be great for really wet surfaces...
I'm currently using std Honda-spec SO-2's and have gotten 20-24,000km from the first two sets. Tyre wear isn't a great concern to me, as much as outright grip.
07-12-2005, 09:39 PM
#85
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silverardo, I use re540 on my stock rims in summer and the 18" with so3 in winter.
The RE is quite good and has prob more "off the line" grip than the 18". As you stated it's terrible when cold or wet. I think some members on here tried the Yoyo's and say the are better or more economical.
The RE is quite good and has prob more "off the line" grip than the 18". As you stated it's terrible when cold or wet. I think some members on here tried the Yoyo's and say the are better or more economical.
07-12-2005, 10:26 PM
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Hi honda9krpm ,
My car is totally stock... apart from the new Toyo's tyres on the rear.
I was thinking of Upgrading to a better clutch, do you recommend this...
Or any other suggestion to reinforce the diff etc..
My car is totally stock... apart from the new Toyo's tyres on the rear.
I was thinking of Upgrading to a better clutch, do you recommend this...
Or any other suggestion to reinforce the diff etc..
07-12-2005, 10:38 PM
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Hi DavidM
You are right, the car handles much better than with the Toyo's RA1 (245/45/16)
They dont grips much as the Toyo R888, thats why I like them, cause you can still slide the car a bit from the rear.
I'm going to install the Toyo's R888 (225/45/16) on my Mazda Mx-5 1.8ltr, as I was not able to return them to the dealer.
They are slightly bigger, but it worth trying them, instead of leaving them in my garage.
You are right, the car handles much better than with the Toyo's RA1 (245/45/16)
They dont grips much as the Toyo R888, thats why I like them, cause you can still slide the car a bit from the rear.
I'm going to install the Toyo's R888 (225/45/16) on my Mazda Mx-5 1.8ltr, as I was not able to return them to the dealer.
They are slightly bigger, but it worth trying them, instead of leaving them in my garage.
07-12-2005, 11:17 PM
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Anyone know how soft they are compared to std S-02's (treadwear 140)? What about the (newer) RE55S's?
The RE55s (and the older RE540s) ar emuch gripper than than any other road tyre (and the S02 are about as grippy as a road tyre gets). They are worth about 2sec at Winton and Sandown and about 3 sec at Philllip Island.
If the RE540S isn't a good road tyre, what can you recommend in the way of R-spec tyres for street use? I do know, in advance, that the RE540S won't be great for really wet surfaces
You can't get RE540s anymore, but the replacement RE55 is about as bad a road tyre as I can imagine. It's like driving on tyres that are constantly dippied in oil. Incredibly slippery on the road, extremely noisy (ie. sound like an airplane taking off) and also are very harsh as far as the ride goes. I'd say most of the re-treads will make a better (and safer) road tyre ... it's like driving on ice.
Though if you want an R-spec tyre for the road then you can't go pasr the Toyo RA1s. Again significanlty more grip than the S02s (ie. similar gains to RE55), but beautifull and very grippy on the road as well (even when cold).
Another couple R-spec tyres that are supposed to be good on the road are Michelin PilotSports Cup and Pirelli P-Zero Corsa. Though, you'll pay at least $500 per tyre in the OME sizes.
I'm currently using std Honda-spec SO-2's and have gotten 20-24,000km from the first two sets. Tyre wear isn't a great concern to me, as much as outright grip.
I got 21,500km out of my OME S02s and 7,500km out of the Toyo RA-1s. The RE55s will get you even lower milage.
Though, I've heard of other people managing 10,000km out of RE55/RE540s and 15,000km out of the RA-1s. Though, as mentioned before I did not get anywhere close to it and I got out of them about 1/3 distance compared to the S02s. They were both driven equaly hard.
The RE55s (and the older RE540s) ar emuch gripper than than any other road tyre (and the S02 are about as grippy as a road tyre gets). They are worth about 2sec at Winton and Sandown and about 3 sec at Philllip Island.
If the RE540S isn't a good road tyre, what can you recommend in the way of R-spec tyres for street use? I do know, in advance, that the RE540S won't be great for really wet surfaces
You can't get RE540s anymore, but the replacement RE55 is about as bad a road tyre as I can imagine. It's like driving on tyres that are constantly dippied in oil. Incredibly slippery on the road, extremely noisy (ie. sound like an airplane taking off) and also are very harsh as far as the ride goes. I'd say most of the re-treads will make a better (and safer) road tyre ... it's like driving on ice.
Though if you want an R-spec tyre for the road then you can't go pasr the Toyo RA1s. Again significanlty more grip than the S02s (ie. similar gains to RE55), but beautifull and very grippy on the road as well (even when cold).
Another couple R-spec tyres that are supposed to be good on the road are Michelin PilotSports Cup and Pirelli P-Zero Corsa. Though, you'll pay at least $500 per tyre in the OME sizes.
I'm currently using std Honda-spec SO-2's and have gotten 20-24,000km from the first two sets. Tyre wear isn't a great concern to me, as much as outright grip.
I got 21,500km out of my OME S02s and 7,500km out of the Toyo RA-1s. The RE55s will get you even lower milage.
Though, I've heard of other people managing 10,000km out of RE55/RE540s and 15,000km out of the RA-1s. Though, as mentioned before I did not get anywhere close to it and I got out of them about 1/3 distance compared to the S02s. They were both driven equaly hard.
07-13-2005, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by honda9krpm,Jul 13 2005, 11:08 AM
nothing too technical at all RR
it's one of the parameter, along with a number of others, required for the ecu to fire off the vtec solenoid. Without this input the vtec solenoid is off. So at stationary you can still rev to 9krpm but the valves are using the normal cam and not vtec cam lobes.
it's one of the parameter, along with a number of others, required for the ecu to fire off the vtec solenoid. Without this input the vtec solenoid is off. So at stationary you can still rev to 9krpm but the valves are using the normal cam and not vtec cam lobes.
Another question: If an ECU can "learn" to re-set itself (after a disconnect) can it also "forget" something. IE Is there a limit on the number of cycles it can go through before some parameter drops out?
Say, for example, you drove for a few months without using V-Tec - would it "forget" what to do next time you tried v-tec?? Curious
07-13-2005, 02:37 AM
#90
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I am not sure what is the correct answer for your saga RR
I did not play around with the stock ecu too much at all, I only played with the aem ems.....and most of this is rusty too as it's been a while since I setup my ems.
For a functional computers I don't think it will forget as the program are in the flash rom. It just takes a bit of time to read and confirm the sensors calibrations/parameters after a reset. Like all electronics they can sometimes drive you nut and fails. I doubt that the ecu will forget vtec after it has learn to vtec...unless it suffers a reset.
Have you try honda to use their diagnostic tools?
Have check the ecu fuse?
Borrow or buy a honda civic map sensor and see if it makes any difference?
I did not play around with the stock ecu too much at all, I only played with the aem ems.....and most of this is rusty too as it's been a while since I setup my ems.
For a functional computers I don't think it will forget as the program are in the flash rom. It just takes a bit of time to read and confirm the sensors calibrations/parameters after a reset. Like all electronics they can sometimes drive you nut and fails. I doubt that the ecu will forget vtec after it has learn to vtec...unless it suffers a reset.
Have you try honda to use their diagnostic tools?
Have check the ecu fuse?
Borrow or buy a honda civic map sensor and see if it makes any difference?