AEM/ AEM S2 ECU's
07-25-2010, 12:06 AM
#2
Registered User
Mixed reviews.
There's a thread for discussion here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=804547
I'd personally hold off buying one for another 12 or so months, too many people have had too many faults and errors.
There's an AEM 1052 (series 1) for sale in Canberra atm.
$1000. (same ECU I have)
All 1052 / 1052U / Series 2 are plug and play.
The big difference is the series 2 is SUPPOSED to fix the ECT... (some people are still having issues here) ; and that instead of a decade old serial cable, the series 2 uses USB connectivity. I'd say those are the primary differences.
If you're feeling cheap, you can pick up a 1012 for about $700 and hardwire (see: splice & solder) every wire into the ECU harness.... but personal opinion is to spend a lil extra and go plug and play.
There's a thread for discussion here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=804547
I'd personally hold off buying one for another 12 or so months, too many people have had too many faults and errors.
There's an AEM 1052 (series 1) for sale in Canberra atm.
$1000. (same ECU I have)
All 1052 / 1052U / Series 2 are plug and play.
The big difference is the series 2 is SUPPOSED to fix the ECT... (some people are still having issues here) ; and that instead of a decade old serial cable, the series 2 uses USB connectivity. I'd say those are the primary differences.
If you're feeling cheap, you can pick up a 1012 for about $700 and hardwire (see: splice & solder) every wire into the ECU harness.... but personal opinion is to spend a lil extra and go plug and play.
07-25-2010, 12:13 AM
#3
Registered User
I forgot to mention, you also need to find someone who can tune an AEM ECU.
It took me 4 tuners and about $3000 before I found someone competant - and that was after which I received help via a recommendation from another S2Ki member.
Ask Erik about his experiences with finding someone in Perth..... apparently no one wants to touch it for him...
Remember, always use what your tuner recommends, its what he (or she?!) is familiar with most.
Hope this helps...
It took me 4 tuners and about $3000 before I found someone competant - and that was after which I received help via a recommendation from another S2Ki member.
Ask Erik about his experiences with finding someone in Perth..... apparently no one wants to touch it for him...
Remember, always use what your tuner recommends, its what he (or she?!) is familiar with most.
Hope this helps...
07-25-2010, 12:51 AM
#4
Mostly correct, but both the 1012 and 1052 are plug and pray (yes, PRAY). No difference in the wiring of either.
Neither will control the ECT gauge so the Modifry ECT doohicky is cool unless you go for an aftermarket temp gauge.
There are some differences (1012 uses injectors 1,2,4,5/1052 uses 1,2,3,4, Widebands use different pin etc) but nothing major and both are proven devices.
The Series 2 is a far more modern ECU. Uses USB for connection and allegedly drives the dash temp gauge, but is still a bit of a beta/bleeding edge product. I expect in a few months the software and firmware will be updated most of the bugs will be sorted out.
Neither will control the ECT gauge so the Modifry ECT doohicky is cool unless you go for an aftermarket temp gauge.
There are some differences (1012 uses injectors 1,2,4,5/1052 uses 1,2,3,4, Widebands use different pin etc) but nothing major and both are proven devices.
The Series 2 is a far more modern ECU. Uses USB for connection and allegedly drives the dash temp gauge, but is still a bit of a beta/bleeding edge product. I expect in a few months the software and firmware will be updated most of the bugs will be sorted out.
07-25-2010, 12:53 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ACT
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cool
thanks I’m getting a dyno reading on the 2/7 and Ill talk with the tuner then,
where did you find the unit for sale advertised in Canberra?
as that would be convenient especially if he got it tuned here as well
thanks I’m getting a dyno reading on the 2/7 and Ill talk with the tuner then,
where did you find the unit for sale advertised in Canberra?
as that would be convenient especially if he got it tuned here as well
07-25-2010, 02:41 AM
#7
Registered User
Correct.
Its also on Ebay.com for cheaper:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33596
Its also on Ebay.com for cheaper:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33596
Trending Topics
07-25-2010, 02:52 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think the series 2 is a good unit. If you choose to go the series 2, http://www.chequeredtuning.com/new/ in Melbourne have experience with the unit.
08-01-2010, 11:22 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ACT
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Interesting I got back from the Dyno with my "Standard" S2000
and it recorded 148.3Kw
which is about 20kw more than I was expecting so where did that come from? the dyno tuners pretty reputable in the area and im doubting the dyno's out but will be going to another dyno to confirm the reading.
but if it is accurate I have no Idea were it came from I cant find any kind of after market gear and a K&N replacement filter cant be responsible for those kind of gains...
anyway more importantly Im looking at forking out a shite load more for an autronic unit as I know a few people running them with great results.
and it recorded 148.3Kw
which is about 20kw more than I was expecting so where did that come from? the dyno tuners pretty reputable in the area and im doubting the dyno's out but will be going to another dyno to confirm the reading.
but if it is accurate I have no Idea were it came from I cant find any kind of after market gear and a K&N replacement filter cant be responsible for those kind of gains...
anyway more importantly Im looking at forking out a shite load more for an autronic unit as I know a few people running them with great results.
08-01-2010, 11:36 PM
#10
I know it has been said a million times, but dynos are no good at measuring actual power. They register a curve of performance and then apply fudge factors to make it fit what the user expects or wants.
What dynos are good for is seeing a difference when you apply mods. Assuming conditions are the same (ambient temperature, engine temperature, atmospheric pressure, humidity etc) then any change can be attributed to the mod. Otherwise, it's garbage.
What dynos are good for is seeing a difference when you apply mods. Assuming conditions are the same (ambient temperature, engine temperature, atmospheric pressure, humidity etc) then any change can be attributed to the mod. Otherwise, it's garbage.