Landon's Rebuild
01-07-2013, 08:36 AM
#61
I couldn’t open your timing file, computer and web search didn’t recognize. My guess is I have to have Kpro downloaded to see it and I don’t. Oh well thanks anyway, was just curious how many degrees of advance you were seeing at 100% through the rpms - and mainly at redline/max boost.
01-07-2013, 09:37 AM
#63
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Torque Obsessed' timestamp='1357571312' post='22250437
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
Id like more boost, but being we only have garbage camel piss 91 on the pumps around here I have to settle at this point. Maximum safety on the components is my primary goal with the most reliable power possible and this seems to be the sweet spot. Power will go up once we put the timing back in there.
01-08-2013, 11:07 AM
#64
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1357526550' post='22249751
[quote name='Kyushin' timestamp='1357521305' post='22249608']
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
Do you think so? I was always under the impression that the 1200 would just straight up make more power at every psi compared to the 1000. I'm sure theres a little bit more parasitic loss due to the blower being bigger, but moving more air at the same psi seems like you'd be making more power, no?
If one was looking for ~400whp dynojet on a S/C would you go with an N1k or N1200? I figured with the N1200 you would hit your power goal at lower boost and have better power under the curve as well.
Either way, this build is awesome, and I bet the power potential on this thing is gonna be pretty awesome.
[/quote]
I can say from when I made the switch from the N1000 to the N1200 that the 1200 is indeed more efficient and seems to make more power. When the blowers were changed out and I went to the dyno, I made the exact same power on the N1200 at 1psi LESS than the N1000 was producing. This test was done at UMS
01-11-2013, 06:09 AM
#65
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1357580027' post='22250825
[quote name='Torque Obsessed' timestamp='1357571312' post='22250437']
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
Id like more boost, but being we only have garbage camel piss 91 on the pumps around here I have to settle at this point. Maximum safety on the components is my primary goal with the most reliable power possible and this seems to be the sweet spot. Power will go up once we put the timing back in there.
[/quote]
Bummer about the 91 octane gas... I'm looking forward to seeing how much you make when it's all sorted.
01-11-2013, 09:28 AM
#66
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kyushin' timestamp='1357583863' post='22251043
[quote name='s2000Junky' timestamp='1357580027' post='22250825']
[quote name='Torque Obsessed' timestamp='1357571312' post='22250437']
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
[quote name='Torque Obsessed' timestamp='1357571312' post='22250437']
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
Id like more boost, but being we only have garbage camel piss 91 on the pumps around here I have to settle at this point. Maximum safety on the components is my primary goal with the most reliable power possible and this seems to be the sweet spot. Power will go up once we put the timing back in there.
[/quote]
Bummer about the 91 octane gas... I'm looking forward to seeing how much you make when it's all sorted.
[/quote]
I can only assume 400 is not realistic, so say 360-380 and ill be very happy.
01-18-2013, 10:37 AM
#67
Banned
Thread Starter
Updates so far: AEM failsafe inpartially installed, Kpro has a glitch that skews the data logging data values so you do not get accurate analogue inputs... a glitch Hondata KNOWS about but has failed to properly address.
The custom heat exchanger does outperform the OEM exchanger that originally came with the CT kit; however, the SoS heat exchanger has proven to be superior. I have been data logging IATs for comparison and this conclusion is pretty solid. My IATs in AZ with 110F days were on average 130-140 cruising the highway and our custom heat exchanger averages 140 highway cruising with 50-70f ambients. Id assume lower ambients would give lower IATs? The trial is not yet complete because to make it an apples to apples, I must reinstall the SoS and take some readings. The main thing we have done differently was Jethot the outside of the AC. This does a good job of rejecting engine bay heat but not sure how it plays over all.
Car feels strong and solid, absolute perfectuion so far! ~1500 miles and about to change back to synthetic oil. I have been running the Amsoil break in, and we did a break on the dyno at Dynocomp. Going to be sending a sample of the 1500 mile break in oil to BlackStone for anaylsis.
The custom heat exchanger does outperform the OEM exchanger that originally came with the CT kit; however, the SoS heat exchanger has proven to be superior. I have been data logging IATs for comparison and this conclusion is pretty solid. My IATs in AZ with 110F days were on average 130-140 cruising the highway and our custom heat exchanger averages 140 highway cruising with 50-70f ambients. Id assume lower ambients would give lower IATs? The trial is not yet complete because to make it an apples to apples, I must reinstall the SoS and take some readings. The main thing we have done differently was Jethot the outside of the AC. This does a good job of rejecting engine bay heat but not sure how it plays over all.
Car feels strong and solid, absolute perfectuion so far! ~1500 miles and about to change back to synthetic oil. I have been running the Amsoil break in, and we did a break on the dyno at Dynocomp. Going to be sending a sample of the 1500 mile break in oil to BlackStone for anaylsis.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
v_I_etn_AM_ese
California - Southern California S2000 Owners
12
03-03-2011 11:02 AM
SoCalAp2
California - Southern California S2000 Owners
5
05-07-2009 04:33 PM