Landon's Rebuild
#52
I'm wondering if you would make more power with the Novi1000/1220 at this pressure. From what I have gathered, the 1200 has a better efficiency range at higher boost. You may still be out of that range at 10psi. Otherwise id expect you to be near 400whp with your motor. Could be the tune and or Dyno.
#53
Registered User
#54
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kyushin' timestamp='1357521305' post='22249608
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
Its the break in tune, he took a shit load of timing out from 7k on. Also had a fuel break up at the top most likely due to a faulty relay.
#55
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by s2k4life_az' timestamp='1357525265' post='22249715
Can I ask why you picked that one over SOS or Kraftswerks? Do you think I can modify that filter to fit the FIPK?
Correct, only CT and Vortech were around back in those days.
#56
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1357526550' post='22249751
[quote name='Kyushin' timestamp='1357521305' post='22249608']
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
Its the break in tune, he took a shit load of timing out from 7k on. Also had a fuel break up at the top most likely due to a faulty relay.
[/quote]
Interested in what your timing numbers look like. Do you have the map?
Probably good I'm breaking my motor in NA over the winter. Ive got about 3k miles on it now. Probably another 3k before I get the Supercharger back on. Should be plenty of miles by then.
#57
Originally Posted by Kyushin' timestamp='1357521305' post='22249608
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
Do you think so? I was always under the impression that the 1200 would just straight up make more power at every psi compared to the 1000. I'm sure theres a little bit more parasitic loss due to the blower being bigger, but moving more air at the same psi seems like you'd be making more power, no?
If one was looking for ~400whp dynojet on a S/C would you go with an N1k or N1200? I figured with the N1200 you would hit your power goal at lower boost and have better power under the curve as well.
Either way, this build is awesome, and I bet the power potential on this thing is gonna be pretty awesome.
#58
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1357526550' post='22249751
[quote name='Kyushin' timestamp='1357521305' post='22249608']
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
OEM bottom end and OEM comp ratio. The head was built using Ferrea valves, bronze guides and BC dual springs with steel retainers. Im at 10psi with a Novi1200 and play to just stay where im at. If it hits 380 after we give the timing back ill definitely be satisfied.
Do you think so? I was always under the impression that the 1200 would just straight up make more power at every psi compared to the 1000. I'm sure theres a little bit more parasitic loss due to the blower being bigger, but moving more air at the same psi seems like you'd be making more power, no?
If one was looking for ~400whp dynojet on a S/C would you go with an N1k or N1200? I figured with the N1200 you would hit your power goal at lower boost and have better power under the curve as well.
Either way, this build is awesome, and I bet the power potential on this thing is gonna be pretty awesome.
[/quote]
Your thoughts are generally mine as well, just trying to make sense of the lower numbers here. I think the 1200 is probably about the most efficient overall for anything above 10psi. 9psi is the NV1000 sweet spot and the 1220 is very much the same. There is some cfm/boost plots between all these blowers on a thread somewhere. That would tell us. But I think the conservative tune that was mentioned is whats mainly going on here.
#59
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
#60
Congrats on getting it up and running. If you can hit 380whp @ 10psi, that's better than I was able to do at 12psi on my 1200.
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!
I'm happy for you... But... You're not letting yourself have even half the fun that setup is capable of. I'd go 12psi at a minimum, maybe 13 or 14 if you're willing to risk it after the motor is broken in. Those are only peak numbers, so unless you redline the car all day long you'll almost never stress the motor. And if you're willing to do it, 15psi is just nuts... Feels 3 times as fast as 12psi did. Just sayin'... Crank the boost up so it can make the jump to Lightspeed!