707S2K

Ok guys, I just got finished trying my hardest to get my new lowering springs (espelirs) to fit! Im doing the passenger side rear, and it seems like it will take a miracle to get the bottom bolt on the strut to line up with the hole so i can screw it back in. I can get the top 2 bolts to go in, I just cant lower the damn control arm or whatever that is to get the bottom flange holes to line up! Help anyone!?! I tried standing on the brake assembly to lower it down, but cant get the bolt to go through!

This is my first spring install and Im having a helluva time just doing one corner. Im willing to pay for someone to come and help me out. I live in Chandler.

KAGED

Is the entire rear of your car up on jackstands? The rear swaybar will fight you if your driver's side rear is on the ground and the passenger side rear is in the air.

How far off are you in aligning the holes for the bolt? You may want to try using a screw driver inserted in the holes to align the holes and slide the bolt in the opposite end.

You're close, don't give up!

1FastS2k

Are you alone? In the past, I have had to stand and on the rotor to push it down to get everything to line up. I think that I have read though that if you unbolt the rear swaybar endlinks it might help you out a bit. If you were closer I would swing by and help, but I'm on the other side of town.

Boofster

2 things

1. lift both sides of the car so the sway bar is relaxed.
2. unbolt the upper arm from the frame instead of popping the balljoint.
3. always torque bolts with loaded suspension.

oh look, it's 3, not 2 g/l

i can swing by if you are still lost. get some boba while there.

Mercuri

Bro, we traded numbers, you shoulda called me up. Im a pro on suspension installs, hit me up tomorrow.

dat boi

sry I couldn't help man I called later on, but I guess it was the wrong number lol.

1FastS2k

So, how did it go?

707S2K

OK guys, well after a lot of cussing and sweating we were able to get it to work. A buddy of mine came over and gave me a hand. I should have lifted the entire rear end on jack stands, instead I did 1 corner at a time which is probably why i was having a hard time. I had him use a screw driver to line up the holes while i stood on top of the rotor to put weight on it. We finally got the bolt throught the bottom and used a rubber mallet to slowly tap it through until we could screw it in.

The 2nd time around on the other side it was MUCH easier, we were able to do it in about 20 minutes. The fronts were CAKE. Just undo the bottom bolt, the 2 holding the A-arm and the 2 top nuts.

Boofster, when you say torque bolts with loaded suspension, what does that exactly mean, sorry for the n00b question. I just want to make sure I did it correctly.

Thanks to everyone for the tips and offers. I feel good knowing I was able to do it myself with some help of course, and save some $$$$. I was so DAMN tired after I was finished, plus it was HOT as hell outside, I had a massive headache and passed out.

The car looks great now, it has a nice stance and rides great!

Boofster

It's called preload. The arm and lower bolts have rubber bushings which need to be neutral at rest. If you tighten them while the car is lifted, they will twist once you lower it.

So the proper way is to do it is to thread the bolts then lift the side you're working on with the spare tire jack from under the lower arm until the car comes off the jackstand. It's kinda hard to explain but at that point, the spring/shock will be in its "neutral" state, as if the car was on the ground.

Then torque and g2g

707S2K

I understand what you mean now. When I installed the springs back and tightened them, I torqued them back to spec, then lowered the car. Is it very detremental to the car if you dont pre-load?

I also did a search, and from what Ive read, it says pre loading is only necessary for coil overs...? Is this true?