What do you think of these wheels?

17x8 front with +50 offset at $250 each
17x9 rear with +60 offset at $270 each

 

Not sure but I believe these are the same offsets.



I dont think that looks good at all. Of course lowering the car and giving it some actual camber would help the looks, but a +50 in the front will rub if you go with the Swift Spec R springs and will require a roll in the front I think. That also depends on how much camber you are willing to run and the tire size you go with.

I assume you would be considering running a 225 or 235 front tire and a 255 in the rear. You can already run a 225 on the stock wheels, and a 235 is a such a minor performance increase compared to the 225 that I dont think it would be worth buying $1,000+ wheels for that. At that point you are buying wheels purely for looks...which obviously there is nothing wrong with that but I would personally not buy wheels for just looks.

If you continue to track the car you will quickly get to a point where a 225 and even 235 front tire is holding you back. SO my advice is continue on the stock wheels, but at least get a 225 on the front. After you run through another set of tires and if you still want to track the car, get some 17X9's for all four corners.

 

I like the wheels but only in flat black unless running highly concave 18s. for some reason the silver just doesn't look right IMO on our cars in silver. It's like the rim design look small, like all the RPF1 17s accept 17x9 +45/+35s

FWIW, square setup costs more to setup correctly. At minimum, I feel it is needed to upgrade the front swaybar and max out your front camber assuming you are running stock ball joints.

Something to keep in mind is that the PF-01 SS 17x9 +60 does not clear the skinniest of BBKs without use of 5mm spacers which should not be run on stock studs. TSW interlagos and Nurburging do clear BBKs. Its not verified if the Interlagos will clear anything other than the two willwood kits using slim calipers.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&b...mg.XihxGbgNuFU

My wheels, the TR Motorsport 17x9 +63 don't clear any BBKs.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/771...t__p__18615369
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/771...3/page__st__50

The dude here says he didn't roll his fronts but it's highly reccomended to bend the top two tabs up a little bit and trim your liner so it doesn't damage your fenders and or rip your liner out on accident.

 

Why do you want those wheels?

Track spares? Changing things up?

 

This is certainly true in most cases, but from all my research the CR does not need any more front swarbar. There are a lot of CR owners running non-staggered with the stock bar due to the stock thickness in conjunction with the stock spring rates (ratio of front to rear).

Yes though, max camber will be needed...and again this all comes down to what the plans for the car are. Max with the swift springs is -2.2 if that direction is taken...which will be good for awhile, but ultimately not be nearly enough camber. That will also depend on the tires selected since some tires require more camber than others.

 

I was just thinking some cheaper wheels for the track that could accommodate larger tires. I knew that there might be front rubbing issues if dropped. I know that the front offset require a safe +55 to ensure no rubbing.

I guess the search continues. I'm surprised that the offset on the front isn't higher for these wheels since they were designed specially to fit the S.

Mugen and Volk wheels seem to be the only ones with high offsets. The price on new ones are ridiculous. And used ones in good shape are hard to find.

 

Do you think 17X9 with a 60 offset on all four corners would rub at all with the Swift Springs? I'm trying to find track wheels that would safely accommodate a large tire size. Running 255 or 265 tires would be offer so much more grip on the track.

 

Ah ok, you're looking for cheap track beaters.

You can find set of used Volks with the 7.5 / 9 with 'OEM' offset for under $1,500. I've seen them go from anywhere between $900 - $1,500.

As far as condition, who cares if they are a little beat up. You're using them for beater track wheels, as long as they are straight that's all that matters.

 

I think the most cost effective thing is to buy a 17x9 all around, in a 55+ if you dont want fender mods (flaring and pulling). The benefit of going with a 17x9 all around from day one is you have room to grow, whereas buying a 17x8 does not allow you to grow as much. What I mean by the term grow is your setup can evolve and your performance ceiling is higher. I would also not buy other wheels that are stock sizes because at that point you just spend over a grand to run the same tire size and it offers no performance benefit. The wheels may however be slightly lighter, and then you are not using your minty stock wheels for track abuse...but in my opinion, if I am spending money on wheels, I only want to do it once and have the wheels that offer the most growth and variety in setup.

Stock wheels fit a 215 and a 225 -> 225 is the optimal size
17X8 fits a 225/235/245 -> 235 is the optimal size
17X9 fits a 225/235/245/255 -> 255 is the optimal size

Out of those sizes the 255 will be the biggest performance increase, but the way I am viewing it is you can start with a 235 or 245 and match your tire size to your driving ability. AS your driving ability increases you can increase your tire size. The 17X9 offers more range in tire sizes, and the highest level of performance (255). So instead of jumping right into the non-staggered arena you can buy the 17x9 wheels and learn to drive the car with say a 235 front tire or 245 front and a 255 rear. When your comfortable you can move to a 255 front and 255 rear.


I have asked a local if I could fit their 17x9+60 on my car to test the fitment , just need to get around to actually doing it. That said though, I will trim my fender liner and flatten the tabs on my front fenders as a precaution. It can cause a lot more damage if I dont do that and catch an edge while driving and that will surely ruin my fenders so better to do some minor modifications to protect the fenders.


Might be worth mentioning that from my point of view wheels are more than just for looks. Nothing wrong with buying wheels for just looks and getting them in whatever size fits and they come in, but I personally want a wheel that does it all.

 

For clarities sake, were talking about recreational tracking Sandeep's CR in a non-structured (competitive with rules book and point allotments) environment, right?

With that being said, it also sounds like you're trying to avoid modifying your fenders in order to fit a larger size front and/or rear tire set up. Why is that? You're not under a point restriction, and honestly with modified front fenders you can fit a larger wheel and tire set up much easier. Are you concerned about resale value? That doesn't seem like a reason not to modify the front fenders, I mean realistically if the car sees track time, potentially you can have dings and scrapes or even a (god forbid) total write off someday.

The link that Bernie posted mentioned:

"The dude here says he didn't roll his fronts but it's highly recommend to bend the top two tabs up a little bit and trim your liner so it doesn't damage your fenders and or rip your liner out on accident."

That has the same effect as rolling your fenders, no? If someone is looking to buy a car, and wants it OEM and pristine the fact that those two tabs were modified is going to be the same as if they were rolled and trimmed.

It sounds like you need to make a decision in regards to your goals with the car. If you want to turn it into a full blown track car go for it, but you can't do that with the intention of retaining a high resale value.

Have you ever thought about selling your CR and picking up a late AP1 or early AP2, or any AP2 for that matter? You could add back most everything you want from the CR and not be worried about modifying or ruining the value on a limited production car. This is all under the assumption that you care about the two things that I mentioned. I could be way off base, but it seems to me if you're building an S2000 into a non-staggered track machine it makes more sense to start with a non-CR and build it exactly how you want.

I'm under the impression that CR's are designed very well as the package offering, and as a result are very competitive in environments where it is prohibitive or penalizing to make major changes to the car.

I think once you make a decision on the direction you really want to take the car the rest will fall into place. You can then decide if a more aggressively sized wheel and tire is acceptable. You can even give us a budget, requirements, and a range of sizes of wheels you find acceptable and I'm some of us can help you track something down.