Brakes
#1
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Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Brakes
Hey guys, my S is squeeling really bad and my rotors are shot along with the pads. I was wondering if any of you know the best performing street setup to go with if i dont want to go BBK.
I was thinking around $600
-F/R Cross Drilled/ Slotted Rotors
-Performance pads
-Steel Braided brake lines
?????????????????
Any suggestions on what brands and or where I can get these soon?
Thx for looking
-Dan
I was thinking around $600
-F/R Cross Drilled/ Slotted Rotors
-Performance pads
-Steel Braided brake lines
?????????????????
Any suggestions on what brands and or where I can get these soon?
Thx for looking
-Dan
#2
i would just go with oem.. great for street use.. the s2000 already has steel braided lines, they are just covered.
FYI, blank rotors are better performing than slotted or drilled rotors. The slotted/drilled rotors are mainly for looks.
oem brake pads are pretty cheep here.. I would get the ap1 pads as they produce less brake dust than the ap2 pads
http://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000-04maint.html
FYI, blank rotors are better performing than slotted or drilled rotors. The slotted/drilled rotors are mainly for looks.
oem brake pads are pretty cheep here.. I would get the ap1 pads as they produce less brake dust than the ap2 pads
http://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000-04maint.html
#3
I would skip on the cross drilled rotors since the holes tend to be strong fracture points and cracks usually start from there. Slotted rotors, however, will eat up your pads quicker and unless you are running 20-30 minute races and are hard on the brakes the whole time, they are not worth it either because pad material and rotor material is so much more improved nowadays that for street driving, great pads are usually all you need. But if you must go with one or the other, go with the slotted rotors.
Search on Racing Brake for more information on brakes. Also, I think Vivid has a combo deal as well. Most people here run Carbotech, Hawk, etc. As for brake fluid, Super Blue, or Motul (expensive).
Hope that helps
Search on Racing Brake for more information on brakes. Also, I think Vivid has a combo deal as well. Most people here run Carbotech, Hawk, etc. As for brake fluid, Super Blue, or Motul (expensive).
Hope that helps
#5
Registered User
I personally run Powerslot rotors, Hawk HPS pads and Goodrich steel lines. This setup worked great when I used to live up in the mountains and drove the canyons everyday.
The Hawk pads don't seem to have as much initial bite as OEM but when they bite, they bite hard. They really don't don't dust/squeel that much either. I run the same setup on my Subaru too.
The Hawk pads don't seem to have as much initial bite as OEM but when they bite, they bite hard. They really don't don't dust/squeel that much either. I run the same setup on my Subaru too.
#6
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I would get blank oem rotors, goodridge or GTM braided lines, Carbotech bobcat pads(have all the initial bite and great stopping power, more than Hawk or OEM) and if you just drive street, then get some Valvoline or generic off the shelf fluid. You only need to worry about better fluid if your car sees a lot of track duty.
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Motul RBF. BEST fluid by far for our brake lines. It doesn't boil within our usage.
NEVER drilled disks... EVER.
I did replace all my flexible lines with steel braided. I bought them from Earnhardt's at one of our events about 4 years ago. Sure, the stock flexible lines are reinforced, but I'm not sure if they are as un-expandible as after-market braided lines. Mine work fabulous!
Best dry condition braking is with solid rotors.
IF and ONLY IF you are driving in wet, consider the slotted disks... Slotted disks do a great job of giving the disks a release for water and some heat.
I've run all sorts of pads with several different disks.
For AZ, do Motul RBF for your fluid... Motul has a higher boiling point and you'll notice that your brake pedal stays firm through repeated braking.
Do solid, or slotted disks...
If you do weekend course work, do Cobalt for the event, and change back to stock HONDA brake pads for street.
Cobalt racing pads have a tremendous grip and are ablative. That means that they will produce a lot of "dust". The grip is fantabulous, but should only be applied with race rubber on the wheels. Street tires couldn't handle the stopping power of Cobalts.
So, here it is...
MOTUL RBF for the brake lines...Check!
Stock, or PowerSlot solid disks.
Cobalt brake pads for the weekend track work.
Stock brake pads for daily use.
Enjoy!
This is my final answer, Regis...
NEVER drilled disks... EVER.
I did replace all my flexible lines with steel braided. I bought them from Earnhardt's at one of our events about 4 years ago. Sure, the stock flexible lines are reinforced, but I'm not sure if they are as un-expandible as after-market braided lines. Mine work fabulous!
Best dry condition braking is with solid rotors.
IF and ONLY IF you are driving in wet, consider the slotted disks... Slotted disks do a great job of giving the disks a release for water and some heat.
I've run all sorts of pads with several different disks.
For AZ, do Motul RBF for your fluid... Motul has a higher boiling point and you'll notice that your brake pedal stays firm through repeated braking.
Do solid, or slotted disks...
If you do weekend course work, do Cobalt for the event, and change back to stock HONDA brake pads for street.
Cobalt racing pads have a tremendous grip and are ablative. That means that they will produce a lot of "dust". The grip is fantabulous, but should only be applied with race rubber on the wheels. Street tires couldn't handle the stopping power of Cobalts.
So, here it is...
MOTUL RBF for the brake lines...Check!
Stock, or PowerSlot solid disks.
Cobalt brake pads for the weekend track work.
Stock brake pads for daily use.
Enjoy!
This is my final answer, Regis...
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#9
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Keep Motul for street.
Forget about slotted or veigned braked disks - especially if you are in Arizona's desert.
Drilled disks might look cool, but the will crack if you brake hard.
I also have braided brake lines and note better braking performance.
If driving a lot wet, then I would go with slotted disks. Slotted disks are good for near every braking condition because the help display wet and heat.
Daily driving, Honda stock is okay.
Tracking... Cobalt ablative formulas... but make sure that your tires are ready for the task.
Forget about slotted or veigned braked disks - especially if you are in Arizona's desert.
Drilled disks might look cool, but the will crack if you brake hard.
I also have braided brake lines and note better braking performance.
If driving a lot wet, then I would go with slotted disks. Slotted disks are good for near every braking condition because the help display wet and heat.
Daily driving, Honda stock is okay.
Tracking... Cobalt ablative formulas... but make sure that your tires are ready for the task.
Motul RBF. BEST fluid by far for our brake lines. It doesn't boil within our usage.
NEVER drilled disks... EVER.
I did replace all my flexible lines with steel braided. I bought them from Earnhardt's at one of our events about 4 years ago. Sure, the stock flexible lines are reinforced, but I'm not sure if they are as un-expandible as after-market braided lines. Mine work fabulous!
Best dry condition braking is with solid rotors.
IF and ONLY IF you are driving in wet, consider the slotted disks... Slotted disks do a great job of giving the disks a release for water and some heat.
I've run all sorts of pads with several different disks.
For AZ, do Motul RBF for your fluid... Motul has a higher boiling point and you'll notice that your brake pedal stays firm through repeated braking.
Do solid, or slotted disks...
If you do weekend course work, do Cobalt for the event, and change back to stock HONDA brake pads for street.
Cobalt racing pads have a tremendous grip and are ablative. That means that they will produce a lot of "dust". The grip is fantabulous, but should only be applied with race rubber on the wheels. Street tires couldn't handle the stopping power of Cobalts.
So, here it is...
MOTUL RBF for the brake lines...Check!
Stock, or PowerSlot solid disks.
Cobalt brake pads for the weekend track work.
Stock brake pads for daily use.
Enjoy!
This is my final answer, Regis...
NEVER drilled disks... EVER.
I did replace all my flexible lines with steel braided. I bought them from Earnhardt's at one of our events about 4 years ago. Sure, the stock flexible lines are reinforced, but I'm not sure if they are as un-expandible as after-market braided lines. Mine work fabulous!
Best dry condition braking is with solid rotors.
IF and ONLY IF you are driving in wet, consider the slotted disks... Slotted disks do a great job of giving the disks a release for water and some heat.
I've run all sorts of pads with several different disks.
For AZ, do Motul RBF for your fluid... Motul has a higher boiling point and you'll notice that your brake pedal stays firm through repeated braking.
Do solid, or slotted disks...
If you do weekend course work, do Cobalt for the event, and change back to stock HONDA brake pads for street.
Cobalt racing pads have a tremendous grip and are ablative. That means that they will produce a lot of "dust". The grip is fantabulous, but should only be applied with race rubber on the wheels. Street tires couldn't handle the stopping power of Cobalts.
So, here it is...
MOTUL RBF for the brake lines...Check!
Stock, or PowerSlot solid disks.
Cobalt brake pads for the weekend track work.
Stock brake pads for daily use.
Enjoy!
This is my final answer, Regis...