Axel Nut Tightening
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That really isn't neccessary. You want to use the orginal if you can for point of reference. It's not a problem really if you get a new nut either if you are accentric. When you tighten the nut, you start it with a half inch rachet and when it won't go any further...you might get a quarter turn unless you are packing some serious muscles but going past that is really pointless. Like I said before, you have to stake it properly and that is just as important or more so than tightening past 220ft lbs
#23
Yeah, according to Billman's advice, it seems that 300 ft/lbs + is the new recommendation. It roughly corresponds to moving the nut 60 degrees past the factory torque, if it was set at 180 or so. When I did mine I just manually torqued it back to 180 and validated that it was the factory setting, then moved the points of the hex nut one position over. 360/60=6 sides of a hex nut, convenient.
Reading through the DIY threads it seems the general consensus is that the factory torque stayed near 180, and even dropped lower towards the end of the production run, so it's probably important to validate that you're at 180 prior to proceeding.
Also, the urea grease is pretty helpful on the clutch rod & pin, and the fork/cup if the pedal is grabby or sticky.
I swear, s2ki is turning out to be WebMD for my car. Automotive hypochondria.
Reading through the DIY threads it seems the general consensus is that the factory torque stayed near 180, and even dropped lower towards the end of the production run, so it's probably important to validate that you're at 180 prior to proceeding.
Also, the urea grease is pretty helpful on the clutch rod & pin, and the fork/cup if the pedal is grabby or sticky.
I swear, s2ki is turning out to be WebMD for my car. Automotive hypochondria.
#28
I'd like to point out just how inaccurate "clock the nut 60*" is when it comes to torque spec. It's about completely inaccurate. Might as well not bother with a specific torque spec anyway because that's not how torque specs work. Like...at all...
He also says that his TCTs are the absolute bees knees and the only way to prevent the ticking from coming back. But I would bet that for the majority of owners, the TCT isn't as much of a problem (merely a band-aid) for worn timing chain guides.
#29
Thanks John. I was left with the impression Billman was a well respected and experienced mechanic up in your neck of the woods.
I can kind of see the clocking method because all you're doing is increasing the tightness relative to what it was previously.
Could be wrong. At the same time, I think people have done the OEM spec from the bulletin and still had issues.
I can kind of see the clocking method because all you're doing is increasing the tightness relative to what it was previously.
Could be wrong. At the same time, I think people have done the OEM spec from the bulletin and still had issues.
#30
Thanks John. I was left with the impression Billman was a well respected and experienced mechanic up in your neck of the woods.
I can kind of see the clocking method because all you're doing is increasing the tightness relative to what it was previously.
Could be wrong. At the same time, I think people have done the OEM spec from the bulletin and still had issues.
I can kind of see the clocking method because all you're doing is increasing the tightness relative to what it was previously.
Could be wrong. At the same time, I think people have done the OEM spec from the bulletin and still had issues.
That said, I don't recall seeing anyone having trouble, other than heat related due to cooking the stock rear solid-disc brakes, after torquing to the new OEM spec.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post