Luder619

sorry didn't see the meet post...got it!

Luder619

That really isn't neccessary. You want to use the orginal if you can for point of reference. It's not a problem really if you get a new nut either if you are accentric. When you tighten the nut, you start it with a half inch rachet and when it won't go any further...you might get a quarter turn unless you are packing some serious muscles but going past that is really pointless. Like I said before, you have to stake it properly and that is just as important or more so than tightening past 220ft lbs

sse2k

Yeah, according to Billman's advice, it seems that 300 ft/lbs + is the new recommendation. It roughly corresponds to moving the nut 60 degrees past the factory torque, if it was set at 180 or so. When I did mine I just manually torqued it back to 180 and validated that it was the factory setting, then moved the points of the hex nut one position over. 360/60=6 sides of a hex nut, convenient.

Reading through the DIY threads it seems the general consensus is that the factory torque stayed near 180, and even dropped lower towards the end of the production run, so it's probably important to validate that you're at 180 prior to proceeding.

Also, the urea grease is pretty helpful on the clutch rod & pin, and the fork/cup if the pedal is grabby or sticky.

I swear, s2ki is turning out to be WebMD for my car. Automotive hypochondria.

HWY88

What's with all the degrees and clocking stuff? Just use a torque wrench...

sse2k

^ in case one's manual tq wrench maxes out at 250, this'll get it to the Billman-blessed 300+ft/lb zone.

HWY88

Seems overkill to go that high, has anyone actually continued to have an issue after doing the TSB?

Boofster

^ If you check out the long, long thread from Billman in the main under the hood forums, he says the issue is only remedied by doing the clocking method.

Neutered Sputniks

Of course he does.

I'd like to point out just how inaccurate "clock the nut 60*" is when it comes to torque spec. It's about completely inaccurate. Might as well not bother with a specific torque spec anyway because that's not how torque specs work. Like...at all...

He also says that his TCTs are the absolute bees knees and the only way to prevent the ticking from coming back. But I would bet that for the majority of owners, the TCT isn't as much of a problem (merely a band-aid) for worn timing chain guides.

Boofster

Thanks John. I was left with the impression Billman was a well respected and experienced mechanic up in your neck of the woods.

I can kind of see the clocking method because all you're doing is increasing the tightness relative to what it was previously.
Could be wrong. At the same time, I think people have done the OEM spec from the bulletin and still had issues.

Neutered Sputniks

Oh, he is. But I personally think that says more about the people up in my neck of the woods than it does about Bill's knowledge/abilities.

That said, I don't recall seeing anyone having trouble, other than heat related due to cooking the stock rear solid-disc brakes, after torquing to the new OEM spec.