Broken Wheel Studs
09-14-2010, 01:03 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Broken Wheel Studs
Hey guys, just posting this to share my experience.
I broke two wheel studs Sunday on the left rear axle, that made a total of three on that hub (drove home with two on the same side!).
Not sure what the deal is. I autocross about twice a month, so I change wheels often. The first one I could attribute to getting in a hurry and cross-threading the nut, but not the most recent two.
When I swapped wheels at the event, I didn't notice any issues, but when I went to swap back two of the nuts initially seemed to loosen but then seized. Reading the forums it appears that getting any grease/lube on the threads can easily cause over torquing (as much as 8x values).
My theory/speculation is that after cleaning and greasing the center hubs so the wheels wouldn't stick going on and off, some of the grease got on the threads of one axle (so far the studs on other three axles haven't failed). There is a lot going on here as even the friction between the wheel and the lug nuts come into play. And -- while I use a torque wrench, I doubt the places I go for tire changes do.
Advise: If you make 100% of your changes yourself you maybe OK with anti-seize or some lube on the threads, but otherwise I think it would be wise to keep your threads clean and grease free.
BTW-- I pulled the knuckle and tried to press out the hub myself, but my press didn't have a big enough throat. Not sure what Honda would have charged, but a machine shop handled removing the hub and pressing in the new bearing for $30. The new bearing, dust shield (my bad), 6 studs and nuts ran another $140.
I hope to get it re-assembled and back on the car tonight.
I broke two wheel studs Sunday on the left rear axle, that made a total of three on that hub (drove home with two on the same side!).
Not sure what the deal is. I autocross about twice a month, so I change wheels often. The first one I could attribute to getting in a hurry and cross-threading the nut, but not the most recent two.
When I swapped wheels at the event, I didn't notice any issues, but when I went to swap back two of the nuts initially seemed to loosen but then seized. Reading the forums it appears that getting any grease/lube on the threads can easily cause over torquing (as much as 8x values).
My theory/speculation is that after cleaning and greasing the center hubs so the wheels wouldn't stick going on and off, some of the grease got on the threads of one axle (so far the studs on other three axles haven't failed). There is a lot going on here as even the friction between the wheel and the lug nuts come into play. And -- while I use a torque wrench, I doubt the places I go for tire changes do.
Advise: If you make 100% of your changes yourself you maybe OK with anti-seize or some lube on the threads, but otherwise I think it would be wise to keep your threads clean and grease free.
BTW-- I pulled the knuckle and tried to press out the hub myself, but my press didn't have a big enough throat. Not sure what Honda would have charged, but a machine shop handled removing the hub and pressing in the new bearing for $30. The new bearing, dust shield (my bad), 6 studs and nuts ran another $140.
I hope to get it re-assembled and back on the car tonight.
09-15-2010, 06:30 AM
#3
I had a similar problem about 6 months back. The centering ring on one of my ce28n's got crushed on one side during mounting. It was actually the rear driver side as well. I wasnt as lucky as you, my wheel actually came off the car ont he way to Chris's house to fix it.
Yea....bad week that week.
Yea....bad week that week.
.... glad you made it home safe... time for ARP's! (lots of work required tho)
09-18-2010, 11:39 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Hey guys this brought up an issue with what torque to use on the axle nut.
The Honda shop manual for 2003 says 181 ft/lbs, but I have read a number of threads that refer to a TSB on correcting a popping noise by re-torquing the rear axle to a higher amount. My car has actually been to the shop for this issue and we have done his to a couple of cars here on Mod day.
The concern I have is that I have read three different reports on what this higher amount should be ranging from 220 to 240 ft/lbs.
So I figured a newer shop manual book should list the updated/higher requirement, but checking Jumpman's 2000-2008 manual, it says 181 ft/lbs. So whaz the deal, what should they be torqued to?
Here's a thread that purports to have the answer:
http://s2000.com/forums/engine-tech-drivet....html#post64467
Answer SlowsS2k says There never was a TSB, just a service news article for increasing the torque setting to 220 to make the clicking/popping go away.
The Honda shop manual for 2003 says 181 ft/lbs, but I have read a number of threads that refer to a TSB on correcting a popping noise by re-torquing the rear axle to a higher amount. My car has actually been to the shop for this issue and we have done his to a couple of cars here on Mod day.
The concern I have is that I have read three different reports on what this higher amount should be ranging from 220 to 240 ft/lbs.
So I figured a newer shop manual book should list the updated/higher requirement, but checking Jumpman's 2000-2008 manual, it says 181 ft/lbs. So whaz the deal, what should they be torqued to?
Here's a thread that purports to have the answer:
http://s2000.com/forums/engine-tech-drivet....html#post64467
Answer SlowsS2k says There never was a TSB, just a service news article for increasing the torque setting to 220 to make the clicking/popping go away.
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