Clutch Install DIY
07-10-2009, 04:38 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Clutch Install DIY
Here is a recent clutch install I did for a member on here. I could've taken more pictures but it was a pain to take pics with my SLR with dirty hands. If you're in socal I will do it for you at a low cost....
To begin you need the following tools:
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
Wrenches
8mm allen wrench
At least two jack stands
At least 24 in of wobble extensions
Begin by removing the stock air box (3, 10mm bolts)
Remove the serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter-clockwise (14mm)
Remove the top alternator bolt (14mm)
Rotate alternator over clockwise
Insert the extensions and remove top starter bolt (14mm)
Remove the black heat shield (4, 10mm bolts)
Remove exhaust manifold heat shield (4, 12mm bolts)
Remove exhaust manifold nuts (7, 12mm nuts)
Go under the car and remove the manifold support (2, 14mm bolts)
Using two wrenches remove cat/header bolts (2, 12mm)
Under the subframe, remove motor mount nuts (4, 17mm)
Lift the passenger side of the motor about 2in and remove header from below.
On the driver side under the car, remove the A/C condenser bolts (4, 14mm)
Mark the position of the steering shaft and remove the bottom bolt (10mm)
Loosen the top bolt (10mm) and slide the joint towards the firewall
-Inside the car: remove the shift knob holding locking nut with 14mm wrench
-Remove the center console (it just snaps out, unplug two harnesses before removing)
-Using a flat head screwdriver, there are 4 arrows on the annular plastic piece, insert screwdriver and push towards the outside of the ring
Remove the shifter (3, 10mm bolts)
Back under the car:
Remove driveshaft bolts (8, 8mm allen wrench)
Remove the lower brace bar (3, 14mm per side)
Lower subframe (3 bolts per side, remove the middle one (19mm), the closest ones to the firewall are 17mm (back out 3 inches), the ones farthest away are 19mm (back out 3 inches)
Remove slave cylinder on transmission housing (2, 12mm)
With a jack support transmission housing and unbolt tranny mount (3, 14mm)
Remove transmission bolts (2, 14mm & 6, 17mm)
Disengage fork from throwout bearing
Lower jack and pull the transmission out until the main shaft is completely out
Remove pressure plate (12, 10mm 12 point nuts)
Random Pictures:
Worn out clutch:
Resurfaced flywheel
Brand new disk
To begin you need the following tools:
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
Wrenches
8mm allen wrench
At least two jack stands
At least 24 in of wobble extensions
Begin by removing the stock air box (3, 10mm bolts)
Remove the serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter-clockwise (14mm)
Remove the top alternator bolt (14mm)
Rotate alternator over clockwise
Insert the extensions and remove top starter bolt (14mm)
Remove the black heat shield (4, 10mm bolts)
Remove exhaust manifold heat shield (4, 12mm bolts)
Remove exhaust manifold nuts (7, 12mm nuts)
Go under the car and remove the manifold support (2, 14mm bolts)
Using two wrenches remove cat/header bolts (2, 12mm)
Under the subframe, remove motor mount nuts (4, 17mm)
Lift the passenger side of the motor about 2in and remove header from below.
On the driver side under the car, remove the A/C condenser bolts (4, 14mm)
Mark the position of the steering shaft and remove the bottom bolt (10mm)
Loosen the top bolt (10mm) and slide the joint towards the firewall
-Inside the car: remove the shift knob holding locking nut with 14mm wrench
-Remove the center console (it just snaps out, unplug two harnesses before removing)
-Using a flat head screwdriver, there are 4 arrows on the annular plastic piece, insert screwdriver and push towards the outside of the ring
Remove the shifter (3, 10mm bolts)
Back under the car:
Remove driveshaft bolts (8, 8mm allen wrench)
Remove the lower brace bar (3, 14mm per side)
Lower subframe (3 bolts per side, remove the middle one (19mm), the closest ones to the firewall are 17mm (back out 3 inches), the ones farthest away are 19mm (back out 3 inches)
Remove slave cylinder on transmission housing (2, 12mm)
With a jack support transmission housing and unbolt tranny mount (3, 14mm)
Remove transmission bolts (2, 14mm & 6, 17mm)
Disengage fork from throwout bearing
Lower jack and pull the transmission out until the main shaft is completely out
Remove pressure plate (12, 10mm 12 point nuts)
Random Pictures:
Worn out clutch:
Resurfaced flywheel
Brand new disk
07-11-2009, 05:57 AM
#6
You don't need to mess with the motor mount. Just unbolt the header from the engine and remove it from below. You need the car jacked up pretty high, but it comes out with a tip-the-back-down-and-twist to the driver's side motion.
07-11-2009, 06:29 AM
#7
Registered User
I think you should mention that removing that top starter bolt is a damn near joke, i spent 30 min trying to get that thing out, finally did and left the extension in there. Maybe its just me but i cant fit my hand in there to even put the bolt back in.
I think the most important thing that troubeled me was listening to all these threads about clutch installs, nobody explains why you remove everything, neither does the manual. Obv you take the serpentine belt off and rotate althernator as far as it goes right because you get to the top starter bolt. However, this top starter bolt actually holds the trans in, hence the removal. As far as AC pump goes, when you begin lowering the engine, it would have got in the way of the sub frame. Even though you are lowering the entire subframe, the motor will drop further. If i was explained "why" on some of the steps it would have gone much smoother for me. Thats just the kind of person I am tho, I need a "reason" ... oh well I had fun figuring it all out, its a job anyone can do if they take the time and have the few tools needed.
I think the most important thing that troubeled me was listening to all these threads about clutch installs, nobody explains why you remove everything, neither does the manual. Obv you take the serpentine belt off and rotate althernator as far as it goes right because you get to the top starter bolt. However, this top starter bolt actually holds the trans in, hence the removal. As far as AC pump goes, when you begin lowering the engine, it would have got in the way of the sub frame. Even though you are lowering the entire subframe, the motor will drop further. If i was explained "why" on some of the steps it would have gone much smoother for me. Thats just the kind of person I am tho, I need a "reason" ... oh well I had fun figuring it all out, its a job anyone can do if they take the time and have the few tools needed.
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07-11-2009, 08:07 AM
#8
Thread Starter
man, think of how long it would take me to do the write up to explain the "why" in everything. In person I would not mind a single bit explaining it but im too lazy to write 
